1842 Springfield

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ben fowler

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Gentlemen,
I have recently purchased a 1842 Springfield Rifle Musket. Just wondering what to live fire it with?
Thanks,
Ben
 
Is this a modern reproduction or an original?

My original .69 cal 1842 Springfield
1842TEXT8.jpg

1842TEXT9.jpg

is not in shooting condition because of 160+ years of use and neglect. Everything works but the barrel has seen better days.

If your gun is a modern reproduction .69 caliber smoothbore, Dixie Gunworks recommends using a .680 diameter roundball with a .015 thick cotton patch.
The powder load would be about 60 grains of FFg black powder or Pyrodex RS synthetic powder.
Your gun will use standard Musket Percussion Caps. These are quite large and they have a flange around the base of them making them look like a top hat.

These .680 diameter balls can be hard to find and I'm not sure whether Dixie still has any or not but here is a link to their catalog.
DIXIE .680 ROUNDBALLS
 
It's a repro rifled musket. I was thinking of getting the round ball but wasn't sure. What about the .69 minie? By the way, nice weapon. I'm a Civil War reenactor so I was just curious.
 
I have one from Armi Sports / Chiappa and shoot 735 grain minié conicals pushed by 75 grain of swiss 3FG. It took me some time to get used to the strong recoil which is far worse than a .300 winchester magnum fired from a modern rifle, but now I can shoot about 2.5'' groups at 50. I am still working on a more accurate load for 100yds.

The round front sight is very hard to get used to.

I am using this one:
http://www.midwayusa.com/Eproductpage.Exe/showproduct?saleitemid=639797

Mine shoots round ball like a musket without any rifling so I stick with the conicals.


* EDIT * Oh sorry, its the model without the rifling. I should learn how to read. :redface:
 
Thanks for the replies. Is the kick really that bad with the minie? I've shot the minie with my .58 1861 Springfield and it wasn't so bad. I may not live fire it now. Lol!! And yes, it's rifled. All the work was done by John Zimmerman.
 
I use a .672 ball and a .012 patch over 80 grains of FFg. Good accuracy out to 60-70 yards and recoil is barely noticeable.
 
I was just looking at Danny Whitacres site and he will reline that barrel or you could get a whole new barrel and get it back to shooting condition. For collector value you could keep the original barrel. It would just be a matter of swapping them out. Just a thought. :)
 
springfield61 said:
Gentlemen,
I have recently purchased a 1842 Springfield Rifle Musket. Just wondering what to live fire it with?
Thanks,
Ben

I like the Rapine 500 gr. semi wadcutter. I shoot it in my original rifled '42 with good results using 70 gr. of Goex 2F. Recoil is about the same as a.58 with standard service load. I think one issue with shooting roundball out of these muskets is progressive depth rifling. I don't know if the Armi has it, but the originals and barrels from Whitacre and Hoyt do. A patch/ball combo that's a good fit at the muzzle where the grooves are shallow may be too small at the breech where they are much deeper. A lubed 14 ga. cushion wad over the powder will give a good
seal and reduce fowling. With the minie, it's important to know the bore size of you musket and size the minie .001 under.

Duane
 
I also have the Armi sport 1842 rifle musket. I use the Lyman 69 minnie and 85 gr 3FFFG . I tried the 60 gr load and the bullet droped like a stone.

If you can shoot a 20 or 12 ga shotgun then the kick is not bad. I have very bad shoulders now but can shoot it fine. It hurts me more to carry it now than to shoot it. Everyone precives kick differantly. I have shot a 300 mag and don't think I will ever again....ouch! So put powder in it and see how it feels and what you both like....I am taking mine after buffalo soon!!! Happy Shooting!!

P.
 
I bought an original 1842 Springfield back around 1970 or so when I was a kid-it had been shortened almost a foot, but done fairly well,so it looks like it was made that way. I found an old US .69 cal bullet mold in an antique shop, and made up some balls. With no sights but a tiny blade on the front barrel band,it was hard to say where your shot might end up. I'm sure I almost killed a few deer by giving them a heart attack when one of those big pumpkins went sailing past them,but they were otherwise never in any danger of getting hit by me. I've still got that old '42,and have given some thought to having it lengthened and the barrel relined.
 
i've got one (a repro) in .54 caliber, even got the original instructions from Spiegal, where the original owner bought it in 1959 or 1960...what's one of these worth anyway?..Lee
 
An 1842 Springfield musket in .54 caliber would be very unusual and repros weren't available until more recent times. Perhaps you have an 1841 U.S.Rifle a.k.a. the Mississippi Rifle?
 
shooter_250 said:
i've got one (a repro) in .54 caliber, even got the original instructions from Spiegal, where the original owner bought it in 1959 or 1960...what's one of these worth anyway?..Lee



I agree with Russ. Does it have a brass patchbox and brass triggerguard and buttplate? If so, then it is likely that what you have is a"Zouave" rifle in .58 caliber? They may have been available as early as 1959. The reproduction M1842 (.69 cal.) came out at the end of the 1990s, somewhere around '98 If I recall correctly. The "Zouave" was a reproduction of the M1863 Remington Rifle which, while purchased by the US Government for use by Union Forces, was never issued in any appreciable quantity, they stayed in storage for the remainder of the War and were sold as surplus shortly after.

If made by Pedersoli (the original maker and the best) for Navy Arms (the American company that had the work done) and in factory new condition, it could be worth near $500 more or less.
 
jeep44 said:
I bought an original 1842 Springfield back around 1970 or so when I was a kid-it had been shortened almost a foot, but done fairly well,so it looks like it was made that way. I found an old US .69 cal bullet mold in an antique shop, and made up some balls. With no sights but a tiny blade on the front barrel band,it was hard to say where your shot might end up. I'm sure I almost killed a few deer by giving them a heart attack when one of those big pumpkins went sailing past them,but they were otherwise never in any danger of getting hit by me. I've still got that old '42,and have given some thought to having it lengthened and the barrel relined.

I am fond of the '42. I just picked up a smoothbore that was cut back to musketoon length.
The pictures on the auction were not to clear and I thought,just maybe, that it was an actual musketoon. Nope, but I still got it for less than what the lock is worth. I think I'm going to keep the smoothbore barrel as is and get a rifled 26" tube from Whitacre. Should make a dandy woods gun.

Duane
 
In recent years the N-SSA's small arms committee, on petition from some members, allowed use in smoothbore competition of shorter-barreled versions of '42 Springfields and a couple other smoothbore patterns on the basis of historical examples of arsenal-refurbished, shortened firearms. :hmm:

The general result of that experiment, I have observed, has been shooters rapidly falling in -- and out -- of love with the shortened smoothies. :cursing:

The '42's, Potsdams and other long-barreled big-bores can deliver almost amazing accuracy to 50 yards and beyond as long as the long sight relief is maintained. :shocked2:

But shorten those barrels, and it becomes extremely difficult to compensate for the lack of traditional sights with the consistency of hold that works so well with the original-length tubes. :surrender:
 
Moloch said:
...It took me some time to get used to the strong recoil which is far worse than a .300 winchester magnum fired from a modern rifle, ...
...

Mine shoots round ball like a musket without any rifling so I stick with the conicals.
...

I have the rifled version as well, and it kicks like a terrified mule. It's also sensitive to lead harness, as I have yet to get bullet obturation.

Good at making *big*, random keyholes, though.

th_bullet.jpg


th_5-muzzlebullets.jpg
 
As has been stated here many times, for any minie ball(conical) to shoot accurately out of any rifle, it needs to be sized close to bore diameter( 1/1000th Inch under bore diameter) which means the shooter HAS to measure his bore diameter, rather than rely on what the manufacturer prints on the barrel!

And to obturate, all bullets have to be cast from fairly soft lead. If you use lead with antimony in it, the thin skirt on many minie designs is likely to break inside the barrel, leaking gas which then cuts lead from the side of the bullet, and ruins any chance for accurate hits.

If you use an alloy lead with too much tin, you may not get any obturation of the skirt at all, and again, gas will cut through the bullet, and destroy accuracy. Paper patching these bullets helps accuracy, whether you shoot a hollow based Minie, or a flat based design conical.

Using adequate lube in the grease grooves of these cast bullets aids in accuracy, too. The recoil that you feel is a reflection of the comparatively light weight of the gun for the caliber, and the design of the buttstock, and buttplate.

In most of these .58 caliber( or larger) rifles, regardless of ROT, you can find a load that will shoot a PRB accurately, with much less recoil, and much less cost for the cast ball than what it costs to produce the cast minie balls. Start with a caliber size load of FFg and work up from there to find an accurate load for a PRB. Don't forget to try a good OP wad between the powder and PRB to seal the gases and protect the patch from burning. Simply using an OP wad, as an additional component to your load, has improved the accuracy of many original rifles, and most replicas, too. :thumbsup:
 
You really need a tight fitting Minie and pure lead is the best material. For example, wheel weight alloy is too hard. The ultimate answer is to get a Lyman mold and cast your own. Then you can be sure of the purity of the lead.
 
A quick story about "pure" lead. I had a run of less than satisfactory performance from my rifled '42 using minies cast from x-ray lead shielding, which is supposed to be pretty close to pure. I bought a Cabine Tree lead tester and tested the ingots made up from the shield lead vs some bought from Midway. The Midway stuff was dead soft pure while the shield lead was borderline.
So no more minies out of the shield lead. I'll save it for round ball. The lead tester is a good investment if you cast alot.

Duane
 
paulvallandigham said:
As has been stated here many times, for any minie ball(conical) to shoot accurately out of any rifle, it needs to be sized close to bore diameter...

And to obturate, all bullets have to be cast from fairly soft lead. If you use lead with antimony in it, the thin skirt on many minie designs is likely to break inside the barrel, leaking gas which then cuts lead from the side of the bullet, and ruins any chance for accurate hits. ...

Thanks for all the good info Paul. I have been collecting info on this topic. I didn't post what I know about this rifle, so here's the rest of the story. The bullets are very close to bore diameter (about 0.001" -- 0.002" or so) but were cast from auto wheel weights. The hardness should be in the range of "6" (pure lead on the scale I'm using), these are 18+. So, that alone will cause the problem. I bought 5 or 10 pounds of pure, new lead from a local plumbing supply shop, I haven't had time to pull out my casting gear and mold more bullets.

And as another poster pointed out, a lead hardness tester is very important.

Unfortunately, the selection of 69 cal minie molds is somewhat limited compared to 58 cal. If anyone has a comprehensive list of sources, I'd appreciate a post listing them with bullet diameter dimensions these molds produce.

Again, thanks for the info.
 
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