Solid point and another piece of experience I'm glad to read about here. I'm building all of this into my knowledge database for the day when I have to change the hand spring in my own Remington.
True, I'd open the slot and coat it with solder first, insert the spring, crimp, file and see what happens. I believe the crimp I put on it last night is going to hold though.
True, but be careful in crimping, too tight a crimp can work harden or crack the tab of the spring. I've had a Uberti 1866 carbine and a Pietta 1860 that was crimped too hard at the factory. The carbine hand spring snapped with the first backing of the hammer, and the Pietta 1860 cracked and snapped after a dozen or so shots. When I pulled the hand on both, the hand was severely crimped and mushroomed at the spring slot. The SAA Colts are barely crimped at all, matter of fact, some are to where you can slide the spring in and out with thumb pressure. That is not a problem on the Colt clones since the hand spring has more of an "S" curvature and the close tolerances of the frame keeps everything in place.
why would you say that?
You really ask that question??? I asked a very specific question, and he posted a picture of a part to a gun I've seen in my own hands because I have my own Remington.
The reason I was so harsh was because putting a picture of a part with nothing more is just a smart-alec move.If you read Erwan's posts 11 & 13 I think you'll find he answered your question. "You don't have to weld or glue : just crimp the new spring in the slot..." (from his post #13). When I read your post (#14) I thought it was harsh. It seemed you already had an answer and you were upset that he suggested an alternative method of repair. One, BTW, that seems to be used by the majority who replace the hand spring unless they go on to do a coil spring repair.
