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- Sep 3, 2021
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Looking at the hammer face on an original the colt 1860, it seems it is hitting the cone lower than on my replica colt. 1st picture (from internet) shows original 1860 with a lot of use. It can be seen that the round bearing surface for the cylinder to ride on has a flat on top side which allows the hammer face to be lower.
In picture #2 shows replica hammer face which is higher. The cylinder bearing surface is void of any flat on top.
Picture #3 shows a piece of aluminum tape applied to hammer face and allowed to drop on empty cone. To me it seems the cone is not getting full contact and that big slot shows right up.
So how to get a hit with a solid hammer and have it contact the cone completely lower is what I would like to try for. Have no idea if this will be beneficial or be just the opposite effect to not have the caps blow apart so much. I am also not a big fan of those magnum caps, but it is hard to get what you like nowadays. Seems to be very little information on the nitty gritty of the hammer cone relationship or just have trouble finding. Just filling the hammer slot with jb weld will not get the hammer any lower. So to get what I want a new hammer or hammer face will need to be made. Have no idea if they make different hammers to be bought, but I do have a spare stock hammer. So will go with a new hammer face using the spare hammer. While there might be some to say why go to all this work, especially since you have no idea if it will be better or worse. I can only answer that machine work started for me about the same time I started breathing and just cannot give up the habit on either yet. These replica's are made for our fun. So the following pictures will tell the steps that were chosen.
Picture #4 Placed a square ended rod in chuck so hammer could be positioned in vice.
Picture #5 milled the complete width of hammer back to the sight bossing. Milled .150 deep, which removed the slot in hammer face.
Picture #6 To be able to secure the new hammer face a 1/8 hole was made .200 deep. After looking at it change my mind and made it 5/32 dia. 200 deep. Now to start making the new part. Used 1/2" drill rod (o-1) and turned the 5/32 x slightly less than .200 front part so it will tap in place and bottom out on shoulder.
Picture #7 Put it in the spin index holder and milled all four sides to match the hammer dimensions.
Picture #8 Just checking to make sure the fit is correct.
Picture #9 The new piece has been cut off from the rod. Being held tight in vise the hammer is cross drilled .062" dia. to hold piece in place.
Picture #10 The little piece was too small to heat correctly and get pictures of color at the same time. But it was quenched at Allis Charmers orange/red and drawn back (gun metal blue) to my estimate of 52-54 rc.
Picture #11 Is now installed on hammer and cross pin has been tapped into place.
Picture #12 Have no idea how much needs to be ground off face now, so checking how much the hammer will push the cylinder forward while touching cone. Found out it pushed the cylinder .012 and my target is a .003 gap. So will take off .015 from hammer face.
Picture #13 Also have no idea if the new hammer face is right angel to the cone now. So knowing that the rear of the frame is right angle to the arbor. The frame was set on magnetic parallels with the hammer screw in place. Was able to hold up on hammer and transfer to that small little neat vice. (auctions are great for finding tools) Then by removing the hammer screw was able to reposition on chuck for grinding.
Picture #14 Getting a reading of the high spot with the indicator on a brass base.
Picture #15 Do not grind with the guard off. Except on rare occasions when the grinding very small pieces. And if you are not experienced not at all. The new piece is so small it takes little time. The set up takes longer. An interesting note is the little surface grinder spins 3450 rpm but yet the writing can be plainly seen on the wheel blotter, using electronic flash on camera.
Picture #16 The frame did require a very small amount of filing to allow hammer not to touch on the bottom front of face. But since the hammer lifts up and out it was only necessary on about 3/16" as seen. Have left the hammer face flat with no indent for safety pins being machined yet. Would like to try it that way first to see results. Like said at the beginning have no idea how this will work, but going to find out next time at the range. Still have the first hammer if necessary to fall back on. Also have replacement slix shot cones to try; this is turning out to be too much fun.
Picture # 17 New hammer is installed and ready. Everything functions as it should and the timing has not changed.
In picture #2 shows replica hammer face which is higher. The cylinder bearing surface is void of any flat on top.
Picture #3 shows a piece of aluminum tape applied to hammer face and allowed to drop on empty cone. To me it seems the cone is not getting full contact and that big slot shows right up.
So how to get a hit with a solid hammer and have it contact the cone completely lower is what I would like to try for. Have no idea if this will be beneficial or be just the opposite effect to not have the caps blow apart so much. I am also not a big fan of those magnum caps, but it is hard to get what you like nowadays. Seems to be very little information on the nitty gritty of the hammer cone relationship or just have trouble finding. Just filling the hammer slot with jb weld will not get the hammer any lower. So to get what I want a new hammer or hammer face will need to be made. Have no idea if they make different hammers to be bought, but I do have a spare stock hammer. So will go with a new hammer face using the spare hammer. While there might be some to say why go to all this work, especially since you have no idea if it will be better or worse. I can only answer that machine work started for me about the same time I started breathing and just cannot give up the habit on either yet. These replica's are made for our fun. So the following pictures will tell the steps that were chosen.
Picture #4 Placed a square ended rod in chuck so hammer could be positioned in vice.
Picture #5 milled the complete width of hammer back to the sight bossing. Milled .150 deep, which removed the slot in hammer face.
Picture #6 To be able to secure the new hammer face a 1/8 hole was made .200 deep. After looking at it change my mind and made it 5/32 dia. 200 deep. Now to start making the new part. Used 1/2" drill rod (o-1) and turned the 5/32 x slightly less than .200 front part so it will tap in place and bottom out on shoulder.
Picture #7 Put it in the spin index holder and milled all four sides to match the hammer dimensions.
Picture #8 Just checking to make sure the fit is correct.
Picture #9 The new piece has been cut off from the rod. Being held tight in vise the hammer is cross drilled .062" dia. to hold piece in place.
Picture #10 The little piece was too small to heat correctly and get pictures of color at the same time. But it was quenched at Allis Charmers orange/red and drawn back (gun metal blue) to my estimate of 52-54 rc.
Picture #11 Is now installed on hammer and cross pin has been tapped into place.
Picture #12 Have no idea how much needs to be ground off face now, so checking how much the hammer will push the cylinder forward while touching cone. Found out it pushed the cylinder .012 and my target is a .003 gap. So will take off .015 from hammer face.
Picture #13 Also have no idea if the new hammer face is right angel to the cone now. So knowing that the rear of the frame is right angle to the arbor. The frame was set on magnetic parallels with the hammer screw in place. Was able to hold up on hammer and transfer to that small little neat vice. (auctions are great for finding tools) Then by removing the hammer screw was able to reposition on chuck for grinding.
Picture #14 Getting a reading of the high spot with the indicator on a brass base.
Picture #15 Do not grind with the guard off. Except on rare occasions when the grinding very small pieces. And if you are not experienced not at all. The new piece is so small it takes little time. The set up takes longer. An interesting note is the little surface grinder spins 3450 rpm but yet the writing can be plainly seen on the wheel blotter, using electronic flash on camera.
Picture #16 The frame did require a very small amount of filing to allow hammer not to touch on the bottom front of face. But since the hammer lifts up and out it was only necessary on about 3/16" as seen. Have left the hammer face flat with no indent for safety pins being machined yet. Would like to try it that way first to see results. Like said at the beginning have no idea how this will work, but going to find out next time at the range. Still have the first hammer if necessary to fall back on. Also have replacement slix shot cones to try; this is turning out to be too much fun.
Picture # 17 New hammer is installed and ready. Everything functions as it should and the timing has not changed.
. I see you are putting that neat little surface grinder to use
.
