2 quick question about an issue for someone who just bought his first BP revolver

[RAM117]

It is a 44 cal 1851 black powder revolver and 2 issues thats not in the manual mby yall can help.

1.so i want to use pyrodex pellets rather then actual black powder, seems cleaner and easier, in the manual it says for pyrodex data maximum load grain is 28 fffg, but it seems like all the 44cal pyrodex pellets for sale are 30 grain minimum, am i safe with these pellets or should i just use black powder? it says the black powder maximum is 35grain

2. It does not say what percussion cap size to use in the manual, im guessing its 10 cus almost everyvideo uses 10, how do i know which is the correct size and is 10 okay?

thanks yall!

 

[Britsmoothy]

Yes and yes.

B.

 

[drobs]

Is the frame brass or steel?

Remington #10 caps for Pietta.

 

[Juice Jaws]

I use CCI #11 caps on all my Cap and Ball's, and long guns. Works for me. And I only use real black.

 

[RAM117]

Is the frame brass or steel?

Remington #10 caps for Pietta.

steel

 

[bang]

2 more grains a non issue.
Typically #10 on pistol, #11 on rifle. Some pistols call for #11. My walker says #11 but they are loose and #10 fit good so that's what I use.

 

[Carbon 6]

Use loose Pyrodex P or 3fff black powder instead of pellets.
The thing about revolvers is you go through ammo really fast. Buying powder pellets will get very expensive very quickly. At 30 grains you get 233 shots per pound, compare that to the price of pellets. Then figure out the per shot cost savings and how many shots it will take you to buy another gun. You'll be surprised.

 

[Eutycus]

I shot a cap and ball revolver for the first time several weeks ago and really enjoyed the experience. Just be patient and take in as much of this info as you can. These guys know what they're talking about.

 

[Many Klatch]

Make sure that the caps fit tightly and be sure to use an overpowder wad between the lead ball and powder. That will reduce the chance of a chainfire (more than one cylinder goes off at once). Throw away the nipples that come with the pistol and get some new stainless steel ones from Track of the Wolf. Just call them and tell them what kind of pistol you have, they will know what fits. Whether you are using black powder or one of the alternates always clean the gun after shooting. The story that the new and improved gunpowders shoot cleaner is hogwash. Grease the arbor with white lithium grease before shooting so the cylinder won't bind after a few shots. Have fun.

 

[hawkeye2]

I have never used anything except GOEX 3f in a revolver but I can assure you that the final cleanup is exactly the same for Pyrodex and black powder so nothing is saved there. As for how clean it stays during a shooting session I can't say with authority but I have a feeling it isn't enough better to make it worthwhile. I load with the cylinder off the gun in a press and at the end of a relay (multiple relay team match) I run a damp patch through the cylinder arbor hole. I keep a dedicated cleaning rod on hand with a jag to suit the cylinder of the gun I'm shooting. I also run a damp patch through the bore followed by a dry one. Time doesn't allow any further cleaning.

You should be fine with #10 caps. The 30 grain pellets are safe though you'll probably find the most accurate load is 20 grains +/- of 3f which will give plenty of smoke and noise too. Use a filler (Cram of Wheat) to bring the ball out near the chamber mouth.

 

[TFoley]

I'm not sure what your pellets look like in the USA, bit over here in Yoorup those made using primarily subs had a small centre section of real BP, in order to ensure positive ignition when being fired in one of the rifles that we don't discuss here. Many moons ago I had a Rogers and Spencer revolver with slightly offset nipples, and it did not particularly like these pellets - made, I recall, by RWS/Dynamit Nobel in Troisdorf.

Oddly enough, I've never seen pellets - either BP or subs - on sale here in yUK, but then, I've only ever seen just the one example of the unmentionable rifles in the last thirty years.

 

[Eutycus]

I like the idea of using a press for loading. Its a tad slower than using just the rammer but I feel it does a better job of loading and there's that much less wear + tear on the gun frame especially a brasser like mine.

 

[Redstick Lee]

been shooting C&B revolvers for 46 years.....
Pyrodex pellets will be fine, but are more corrosive (over time) than real BP
Triple 7 is your best bet overall....non corrosive and cleans up w/only water.
Remingtons new "Magnum fire" caps seem to be best.
I load with an arbor press and oversized balls (.457) to prevent chainfire.

@ 25 yds. a 5" steel plate drops every time I pull the trigger on 3 of my 4 BPRs........1 is a "problem child" and usually only hits 5/6

 

[DOUBLEDEUCE 1]

Personally, I would not use the pellets. I’ve seen bits of them going down range, still smoking. Landing on the dry grass at the range, they would smolder. We stomped out a bunch of potential fires. The pellets were shot from a Ruger Old Army.

I would stick to black powder.

 

[Eutycus]

Really, Triple 7 is non corrosive? I was under the impression they all were.I'm here to learn too.

 

[Carbon 6]

A few months from now and the OP will be wanting to know how to make paper cartridges.

 

[Carbon 6]

Really, Triple 7 is non corrosive? I was under the impression they all were.I'm here to learn too.

No! There is no non-corrosive black powder substitute. All are corrosive.

PERIOD!

 

[Eutycus]

I was sort of expecting that reply. I've never heard of a non corrosive propellant in the world of black powder shooting.

 

[rodwha]

Really, Triple 7 is non corrosive? I was under the impression they all were.I'm here to learn too.

This is a pic from a test conducted in a garage one summer where the humidity was said to be high (Think he’s in MO). He lit a pile of powder on each steel plate and left them in the garage for 4 days and then cleaned them off. The Pyrodex and BP was bad and needed a steel wire wheel whereas the T7 wasn’t that bad and didn’t get the wheel. However you can see the T7 was not left pristine. It is corrosive but not nearly as much as the others.

24hr gas station near me

 

[Melnic]

I have always used 3F Goex. My dad with what seldom he shot (pistols maybe once or twice a year) he used the pyrodex pellets.
with both my cap and ball, I really like the separate rammer. My range requires a loading stand for pistols and its painful to use what they give you or else you gotta make a custom one. With the separate rammer, loading stand is not required. Just point down range or up when replacing cylinder.
I also like taking the cylinder out each time to do some quick cleaning/lubing between strings. Brush those broken caps off the nipples etc.
For my dad, his hands are not as nimble and liked not having to measure and pour the powder. If he shot it more, he'd likely want to use powder.
I pre measure my C&B loads and put into little vials to dump into the cylinder at the range.