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2 quick question about an issue for someone who just bought his first BP revolver

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I was sort of expecting that reply. I've never heard of a non corrosive propellant in the world of black powder shooting.

Some are less corrosive than others, but they are also harder to ignite or have other problems when compared to real blackpowder.
Some powders use the language that they are "virtually non-corrosive". A lot of people seem to gloss over the word virtually or don't know what it means.

For a shooter the degree to which a powder is corrosive boils down to time and conditions. Powders that contain chlorates or acids may take more time to rust but they can leave serious pitting, whereas real blackpowder could start rusting the next day but is easily removed and leaves no permanent damage, because it is noticed and removed quickly.

It is best to assume that all powders are equally corrosive and you should clean your gun at the end of your shooting session.
 
I knew full well there were no "magic powders" that didnt corrode. I said that for the sake of some other readers who might be ignorant of that fact. And apparently it worked, It sure got some responses from the experts.
 
I knew full well there were no "magic powders" that didnt corrode. I said that for the sake of some other readers who might be ignorant of that fact. And apparently it worked, It sure got some responses from the experts.
Exactly why I replied.
 
Most of the powders are not corrosive. That's why you can load a gun for the entire hunting season and not have to clean it. That's why you GG-Grandfather's gun will still have powder that will go off after 150 years.

Its the fouling after firing off a charge of powder that is corrosive. Its also why we emphasize cleaning after firing your gun.
 
Most of the powders are not corrosive. That's why you can load a gun for the entire hunting season and not have to clean it. That's why you GG-Grandfather's gun will still have powder that will go off after 150 years.

Its the fouling after firing off a charge of powder that is corrosive. Its also why we emphasize cleaning after firing your gun.
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I wouldn't worry too much about the nipples that come with a new revolver. They should work okay. If they give you problems, then follow A. Buchner's advice and order some new ones. I've used both Pyrodex and Goex in my revolvers. I prefer black powder, but over the years have acquired some pyrodex in trades and being frugal, I shoot it in my revolvers. It does require good cleaning, but that is true for any powder you use in a cap and ball revolver whether it is black powder, Pyrodex, Triple 7 or any other substitute.
 
I tried pyrodex many years ago. Never liked it. Seems the real BP had more kick and I've never gone back. Only FFF real stuff now in my revolvers, as they were in tended to be used. IMHO, Pyrodex came on the scene along with the lazy, no effort, idowannahafacleanit generation. I have no use for either.
 
Its your perogotive to use any propellent you see fit,but what does" idowannahafacleanit "(your spelling) mean exactly? Pyrodex has to be cleaned just like real black. So where does the lazy come into play?
 
There was an article in The American Rifleman back about 86-87 where they took two identical rifles and fired Pyrodex in one and Goex in the other. They let the rifles sit uncleaned for several months and did a comparison. The one fired with Pyrodex was far more corroded than the Goex rifle. I've only used Pyrodex once and put the unused portion up as a blanket prize.
 
Really, Triple 7 is non corrosive? I was under the impression they all were.I'm here to learn too.
It's considered by some to be less corrosive than Black Powder which is in turn considered to be less corrosive than Pyro... I tend to agree with this assessment but I seldom use 777 (Probably will work with it more this summer) I use only Black Powder at present. The whole discussion is probably moot, or should be, since we all clean our muzzleloaders when we're done for the day right?
Edit: Good Grief Charlie Brown...:rolleyes: all you fellas answered before I pulled the trigger on the post! I guess the poster got his answer... LOUD and CLEAR!

;)
 
I have never used anything except GOEX 3f in a revolver but I can assure you that the final cleanup is exactly the same for Pyrodex and black powder so nothing is saved there. As for how clean it stays during a shooting session I can't say with authority but I have a feeling it isn't enough better to make it worthwhile. I load with the cylinder off the gun in a press and at the end of a relay (multiple relay team match) I run a damp patch through the cylinder arbor hole. I keep a dedicated cleaning rod on hand with a jag to suit the cylinder of the gun I'm shooting. I also run a damp patch through the bore followed by a dry one. Time doesn't allow any further cleaning.

You should be fine with #10 caps. The 30 grain pellets are safe though you'll probably find the most accurate load is 20 grains +/- of 3f which will give plenty of smoke and noise too. Use a filler (Cram of Wheat) to bring the ball out near the chamber mouth.
really? so the booklet says maximum for BP is 35 grains, you would reccomend putting in only 20 for accuracy. i care for accuracy more for power.
 
il go with BP over pellets, ima go with goex. thanks yall!, so if my BP booklet says 35 grain bp reccomended how much should i put in to have accuracy and power? 20 grains? 25 grains? 30 grains?
 
really? so the booklet says maximum for BP is 35 grains, you would reccomend putting in only 20 for accuracy. i care for accuracy more for power.

Max loads and accurate loads are almost always two different things. I was doing very well in matches years back and I never shot more than 22 grains of 3f in a .44. I found my .36s shot best at about 18 grains of 3f. The booklets that come with these revolvers were written by lawyers and idiots and don't really contain much useful information (I hope I haven't offended any lawyers or idiots :)).

I'm glad to see you are leaving the pyrodex behind.
 
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Max loads and accurate loads are almost always two different things. I was doing very well in matches years back and I never shot more than 22 grains of 3f in a .44. I found my .36s shot best at about 18 grains of 3f. The booklets that come with these revolvers were written by lawyers and idiots and don't really contain much useful information (I hope I haven't offended any lawyers or idiots :)).

I'm glad to see you are leaving the pyrodex behind.
thank you!
 
With a steel frame you're good to go to use 30gr Pyrodex Pellets. My 1st outing with my 1858 Remington was with Pyrodex Pellets. I've since switched to real BP and have a 1/2 tin left of the pellets. As others have said, lose powder is cheaper to use. I like Graf's FFFg black powder as it is available near me. My powder flask has a 30gr spout and that's what I mostly use.

There is an issue with brass framed colts "stretching" with heavier charges of BP / Substitute powder. Usually the arbor loosens up allowing the rear of the cylinder it impact into the recoil shield. Eventually the gun becomes non-functioning.

Example (on the right) from the web:

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I agree the majority of damage to the frame comes from over sized charges. Nothing wrong with small charges, these are not magnums afterall. But doesnt some of the damage that is done to brass framed revolvers also come from too much force on the rammer when loading oversized balls. This excessive force on the rammer is bound to "stretch" something!
 
I used Black Powder in my Pistol with a load of around 25GR.s I also used the lithieum grease as a filler which was cheap to use and did a great job as well. Mine was a 44cal, It was a San Marco model and very well made.
 
I used Black Powder in my Pistol with a load of around 25GR.s I also used the lithieum grease as a filler which was cheap to use and did a great job as well. Mine was a 44cal, It was a San Marco model and very well made. I found 4x to be the most accurite powder in it.
 
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