• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

20 ga flint under $1000?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

N.Y. Yankee

32 Cal.
Joined
Feb 27, 2013
Messages
617
Reaction score
712
If there is such a thing, which one would you recommend?. I might be ready to buy a nice one.
 
I guess there are a couple questions that need to be asked.
What is your intended use of the gun?
How historically accurate do you want/need it? And, to what time period and location?
Let's say you want something reasonably historically accurate to a mid-late 18th century civilian in PA, VA, Maryland, or South and West of there.
And, your primary use of the gun is shooting roundball at targets and deer, and using shot for turkey and squirrel hunting.
Well, if a Kibler kit is an option, then you don't need to wait for his fowling piece or trade gun to come out, his "Early Colonial," with a smoothbore barrel will be fine for you.
If your a New Englander of the same time period, or need something military, things are a little tougher for your budget. Or if you plan to do much wingshooting. Now you're looking at some type of fowling piece or trade gun.

Do your homework regarding these questions. And remember, sometimes our future interests change or current tiny embers take hold into flames later.
I certainly had no intentions of getting as far into research and experimental/experiential history as i have when I bought my 1st muzzleloader. Doing homework now can save you from having to spend a bunch of money twice.
 
How about a used factory rifle, traditions, pedersoli, etc. you can have it bored smooth. Check out Brit Smoothie's posts. He uses what looks like a Pedersoli Kentucky, I have one in 50 cal, in 45 cal. smooth bore. Seems to work for him.
 
Thanks Guys, I would shoot both round ball and shot, deer, small game and birds. HC/PC doesn't matter to me.
 
I guess there are a couple questions that need to be asked.
What is your intended use of the gun?
How historically accurate do you want/need it? And, to what time period and location?
Let's say you want something reasonably historically accurate to a mid-late 18th century civilian in PA, VA, Maryland, or South and West of there.
And, your primary use of the gun is shooting roundball at targets and deer, and using shot for turkey and squirrel hunting.
Well, if a Kibler kit is an option, then you don't need to wait for his fowling piece or trade gun to come out, his "Early Colonial," with a smoothbore barrel will be fine for you.
If your a New Englander of the same time period, or need something military, things are a little tougher for your budget. Or if you plan to do much wingshooting. Now you're looking at some type of fowling piece or trade gun.

Do your homework regarding these questions. And remember, sometimes our future interests change or current tiny embers take hold into flames later.
I certainly had no intentions of getting as far into research and experimental/experiential history as i have when I bought my 1st muzzleloader. Doing homework now can save you from having to spend a bunch of money twice.
ok
Cool! I didn't know Kibler had a smoothbore option that was the same contour ..
 
If you want to build one look at Chambers PA Fowler 20 gauge .62 cal $950. I'm building one myself.
IMG_20210617_093609.jpg

IMG_20210622_183345.jpg
 
Well this blows the budget by about $100.00 when shipped, and then you need a little to finish it.
Dixie Gun Works Pedersoli Indian Trade Musket KIT
I have one that is factory finished. They do fine for a good 20 gauge flinter. They have the "look" of trade guns, but for the folks that are trade guns aficionados, it's a mediocre copy.
You won't be turned away from any event for carrying one, even a juried event.
As far as finishing you can sand, stain, and seal the plain stock if you wish OR you could paint the stock with oil based paint and be done with it.
Some guns were finished with of all things, Carolina Blue. Some were a brownish red, and could have either black or yellow embellishment...
So this would be a quick finish to the gun, and durable.

What one does is take an image from the internet and print it out. Make sure the printer gives you a color that is the same as you saw on your computer screen, then take that to an actual paint store, Have them make up a quart of oil based paint for you that matches the color on your printed image. Then paint your stock, and allow it to fully cure before you put the hardware back upon it. The only caveate is to check under the barrel if you get caught in the rain with the gun, as water might be trapped between the barrel and the waterproof stock.

Gunstock tradegun color variations.jpg


BTW they also merely embellished a "blonde" stock painted with boiled-linseed-oil and then adding the black vine patterns such as that on the right of the above image,..., but I for one would not wander about in the woods during deer season or on public lands with a white-ish colored stock on my gun, EVEN IF I was dressed from head to toe in blaze orange.

LD
 
Back
Top