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2F vs 3F in the barrel

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2Fg powder will obviously work to prime with but its larger grains are not as easy to light with the sparks from the frizzen.
It works quite well with large Military locks which are designed for it but the smaller frizzens on sporting locks don't always produce as many sparks.

As others have mentioned, black powder itself won't absorb enough moisture from the air to noticeably slow down its ignition speed. It is only when the powder is in direct contact with water that problems arise.

Obviously rain hitting the powder will cause a problem but if this is happening, any granulation of powder will be harmed.

Direct condensation would create enough water to cause a problem but condensation only happens when a cold item is taken into a humid warm area.

If the gun had been out in the cold weather and then brought into a warm humid cabin a problem could occur but IMO a loaded, primed muzzleloader shouldn't be brought inside without first unloading it and then, when it's inside it should be cleaned to prevent the fouling from 'doing its thing'.

The biggest problem comes from fouling left in the pan.
BP fouling will suck moisture out of the air and actually glisten from the amount of water it can hold.
Any powder, be it 2Fg, 3Fg or 4F will harmed if it is left in contact with this wet fouling.

At least, that's my opinion. :)
 
I agree that different guns generally will prefer one granulation or another, however, have any of you found that your ignition speed is increased by using 3F rather than 2F as the main charge in your flintlocks? In my limited testing, this seems to be the case, at least so far. But then again, I have many things to experiement with and get worked out.

Jeff
 
I didn't keep any records but for me at least it seemed that the 3Fg powder was more likely to ignite from the pan flash. In other words, using 2Fg powder seemed to have a few more flashes in the pan.

When the 2Fg powder fired, I couldn't really tell any difference in the time it took after pulling the trigger between it and the 3Fg.

Looking at Pletches data on priming ignition speed where the Null B beats everything I suppose the finer 3Fg main charge probably beats the 2Fg but I think the difference in speed is probably very small so this might explain my inability to say one granulation is noticeably faster than the other.
 
Zonie said:
. . .snipped. . . .
Looking at Pletches data on priming ignition speed where the Null B beats everything I suppose the finer 3Fg main charge probably beats the 2Fg but I think the difference in speed is probably very small so this might explain my inability to say one granulation is noticeably faster than the other.

That's a good way to say it. I'm usually fairly careful with word choice. Something like, "the difference is measurable but probably not detectable with human senses."

This is a test I haven't done if I understand the earlier post: to time barrel ignition with varying barrel powders and the priming powder a constant.

Regards,
Pletch
 
I believe that is what was asked.

It does sound interesting, doesn't it?

I suppose to get around variations in the pan ignition perhaps some sort of sensor could detect and start the timing when the pan powder flashes.
Then, another sensor could detect the flash at the muzzle? :hmm:
 
Zonie said:
I believe that is what was asked.

It does sound interesting, doesn't it?

I suppose to get around variations in the pan ignition perhaps some sort of sensor could detect and start the timing when the pan powder flashes.
Then, another sensor could detect the flash at the muzzle? :hmm:

Ya. I use 2 photo cells. One looks into the pan and the other looks across the muzzle. I usually ignite the pan with a red hot copper wire. Pan flash starts the clock. BTW using the wire is helpful, because a really nice spark production will sometimes trip the pan's photo cell.

The barrel length is an obvious variable, so I only compare data if the same barrel is used.

Regards,
Pletch

PS - when timing locks I set the pan photo cell directly in the plane of the vent. When doing barrel ignition I move it slightly to keep the cell away from the vent gases. Saves photo cells.
 
Just play with it. My .54 1-70" twist likes 75 FFFg for the best accuracy. It'll cut one hole a 50 yds with that load, but the same amount of FFg will yield about a 3.5 " group.
 
There's guns you want to try different powders to maximize accuracy and then ones you want to find the best load with the powder you have. It's plum amazin' how some rifles can be finicky as a spoiled cat.
 

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