• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

2nd Trip to Range Much better experience than 1st

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TarletonRanger

36 Cal.
Joined
Mar 8, 2005
Messages
55
Reaction score
0
Howdy all. Just got back from doing a bit of work at my deer lease before I had to head back to school, and decided to take my new flintlock along to FINALLY get her sighted in. It's a 1/32 twist Great Plains Hunter model, and I will admit that I was a bit discouraged after the first trip to the range a few weeks ago.

I've grown up shooting caplock rifles and am still getting used to the "Klack-Boom" of the flinter, and after the elevation screw broke off in the site on my last range trip, I packed it in with my head hung low.

Well my new rear site arrived this past week so I thought I'd give her another try, and I'm very glad that I did.

I went in knowing I was going to have to file a good deal off my front site as I was getting baseball sized groups about 1 1/2 ft. low at 50 yards. Thus I began by taking off a good amount of metal before loading my first shot.

The first shot outta the gate went off VERY quickly and punched a hole about 4 inches low of the coffee filter I had tacked to a wooden bored. A little more filing and my second shot punched a hole through the bottom of the filter. A turn on my elevation screw put the rest right about where they need to go.

Now I did still had a few miss fires. I fired about 15 rounds and about 3 times I had the flint produce sparks that my shooting partner could see, without igniting the priming powder....weird.

Other than that I had a much more enjoyable time. I still want to get as much of the "hang time" wiped out as I can. Thus I think I'll be taking ya'lls advice and drilling out my touch hole a bit.

My load right now is 80 grains of FFG with a 385 grain Buffalo Bullet on top. I'm priming ith 3F.

I think the fever is finally starting to catch on! Lord....I may even eventually have to name her.

Jake :front:
 
I found that my GPH favors 3 f goex 85 grains a REAL conical and a wonderwad,shot clover leaf groups at the 50 yard target
 
I would start out with drilling the touch hole to 1/16" and see how it works, maybe 5/64" max. flinch
 
Happened to me too (spark/no flame).
Contrary to popular opinions, Just a few grains across the bottom of the pan with the majority resting to the outside of the pan eliminated the problem entirely.
I know,, most say all the prime to the outboard side,, but, the few kernels across the bottom really helps.
My Bess came drilled out to .099. Seems big, but works.
I take and grind my 3Fg to about 4Fg with a stainless spoon and small bowl. "Think" that helps too (but can't honestly swear to it).
"Klack-Boom" goes away in time. Eventually you'll not even notice it.
Just have fun.
 
I took my GPR out for the first time this weekend. It was fun but trying at times as I had several flash in the pan only. I also had the same problem as you, I had sparks but the powder in the pan did not ignite. I am going to drill my touch hole to 1/16th. I also found out I need to wear a hat when shooting flinters as the powder in the pan ignited and I could feel embers hitting me in the forehead occasionally. All in all it was a fun day with alot of learning left to be had.
 
From what you stated your pan didn't ignite, has nothing to do with the vent liner. I have several suggestions:
1: Use Tom Fuller Black English flints
2: Very lightly knap the flint about ever 5 shots, If you wait too lng when you knap it it will flake off bog & the flint don't last as long.
3: After you shoot, Set the rifle on half-cock & frizzen opem, if you are going to swab do so now......... Then wet the end of a rag in you mouth, wipe the frizzen, flint underside, then pan in that order. Then wipe them all dry.

4: Use 1/2 pan of powder & make sure the vent hole is not covered with powder.

All of the GPR's & GPH's I have delt with have improved the ignition by coning the vent liner Inside & Outside & drilling it out to 5/64" dia hole. But first ya need the pan going off consistantly.

:thumbsup:
 
My pan did not ignite a couple times but I had several flash in the pan. I bought some english flints from TOW and started out with them, I then switched back to the flint that came with the rifle with better results. It looks like the flint is hitting a little below the halfway point on the frizzen.Is this the point where the flint should hit the frizzen? This was the first time out with my flinter but there seemed to be a delay from when the pan flashed to when the gun actually fired, I know there will be some delay but it seemed longer than what I expected. I bought a Treso liner that has the internal part already coned but I think drilling it out will help speed up ignition. Dont get me wrong about posting a few problems I still had alot of fun and will go out again next weekend for some more fun and learning.
 
Here's what I've been doing after every shot.

After I fire, I've been taking a dry patch and wiping the pan many times until I can see the case hardening on it. I was then wiping it again with the edge of my camo shirt to ensure it was dry.

After that I was wiping the frizzen a few ties with my thumb and then the underside of the flint with my patch.

Next I wet a patch in my mouth and ran it down the bore and back out. This was followed by a dry patch.

Then I would take a nipple pick and repeatedly pick out the touch hole.

I'm using Tom Fuller black english flints that I picked up from Track of The Wolf....and they are sparking good. I have not been knapping them though as I've never done it before and am afraid I'll ruin the flint. When I see it getting too many chips I flip it over for a couple of shots.

I've found that I need to place my flint in the doghead with the bevel down to ensure I get good sparks most of the time, and to make sure that my frizzen is knocked clean from the pan. Also I've found that I need to have 1/2 to 3/4 of the pan full to ensure ignition most of the time.

I'm giving serious thought to trying out a White Lightnin' liner as folks who have used them seem to have nothing but praise to say about them.

Jake
 
To go to a White Lightening liner is not just swapping liners. You have to drill and tap the barrel liner hole for them, as they use a different thread. Just so you know.
 
Oooooohh, well that's no good......ummm yeah, maybe just drilling it out to 5/64 will make it all better! Anything to quicken the ignition up will surely be welcomed!

Thanks.

Jake :front:
 
Ya know something else.....I haven't been knocking my powder to the outside portion of the pan either when shooting. This might make some difference, at least that's something else I've gathered from reading some of the posts on this board.

I did do a test before I headed home this past weekend. After my range shoot I ran a spit patch down the bore, followed by a path with some bore butter on it. Early at 5:30 the next morning I wiped two dry patched down the bore, picked out the touch hole and loaded her up.

Something else I do when loading is to give 3 good whacks on the barrel with the flat of my hand just in front of the lock. This is something that I've carried over from caplock shooting. Maybe it does nothing, but I hope it gets the powder closer to the pan.

After I got her loaded up I went out to a pig crossing that I know about and sat there watching it until about 9:30. Whe nnothing had shown I began walking back to my jeep. On the way back I twisted and turned the rifle every which way that I could. Knocking it around with my hands, turning it upside down and such. Just trying to simulate a long hunt with it. When I got to the jeep I found a softball sized rock about 45 yards away. Using the spare tire as a rest I squeezed off with a good ignition and shattered the rock.

I'm convinced the GPH is a good rifle, I just need to learn some of the finer quirks that she's got and learn how to combat them.

Jake :front:
 
Easiest way to get faster ignition with a flinter is to convert it to caplock. :: :kid: Guys, don't tar and feather me.

BLASPHEMER!!!!!

Somebody get a rope.... ::
 
Oooooohh, well that's no good......ummm yeah, maybe just drilling it out to 5/64 will make it all better! Anything to quicken the ignition up will surely be welcomed!

Thanks.

Jake :front:

Well, if you had No Flash ir was a flint/frizzen problem.

If it flashed in the pan & didn't go off, then you have a vent problem.

I would remove the vent liner, put it in the vice with the vent wrapped in a piece of leather & take a #2 centerdrill & cone the inside & cone the outside, keeping about .025 straight wall thickness in the center of the vent. I have done well over a hundred of these for fellers & it works good on the GPR & the GPH & you will see a substantial difference in the ignition time.

Also, bumping the side of it is good & helps insure the powder got down into the patent breech area the Lyman uses.

Good Luck !

Birddog6

:thumbsup:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top