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.32 buckshot size/patch?
- Thread starter wkndman
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paulvallandigham
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Look for a 310 cast ball for best accuracy. Buckshot is NOT pure lead, but lead alloy with antimony in it to harden it. Its much harder to load down the barrel, and does not obturate- or upset- as pure lead does when the ball is fired.
If you want to try Buckshot- because by buying in bulk you can save money-- buy either #0 buck( .32 caliber, nominally) or #1 buck( .30 caliber, nominally). With the smaller sized ball, you will need a thicker patch. With the larger sized buckshot, you will probably need a mallet to seat the ball in the barrel. Use a lubed patch, of course, with both sizes.
I know people who have used the #1 buck in their .32 cal. rifles. They report its accurate out to 25 yds, and that is where they are doing 99% of their shooting, with that caliber rifle.
Remember that a #1 buck ball is only going to weigh about 33 grains, while that .32 caliber "0" buchshot weighs in a hefty 40 grains- the same weight as a .22 LR bullet.
The .22 bullet is designed to give maximum accuracy out to 100 yds, but that RB has a simply terrible ballistics Coefficient, and loses a lot of its speed and energy within 50 yds.
If you want to try Buckshot- because by buying in bulk you can save money-- buy either #0 buck( .32 caliber, nominally) or #1 buck( .30 caliber, nominally). With the smaller sized ball, you will need a thicker patch. With the larger sized buckshot, you will probably need a mallet to seat the ball in the barrel. Use a lubed patch, of course, with both sizes.
I know people who have used the #1 buck in their .32 cal. rifles. They report its accurate out to 25 yds, and that is where they are doing 99% of their shooting, with that caliber rifle.
Remember that a #1 buck ball is only going to weigh about 33 grains, while that .32 caliber "0" buchshot weighs in a hefty 40 grains- the same weight as a .22 LR bullet.
The .22 bullet is designed to give maximum accuracy out to 100 yds, but that RB has a simply terrible ballistics Coefficient, and loses a lot of its speed and energy within 50 yds.
I have not tried buckshot in my .32. I have tried cast .320 and they do need a hammer with any size of patch very hard to load and never found a patch also just so-so accuracy. Now .310 seems to work very well for me and patches look good and accuracy is good. I would stick with anything between .312 and .300 and see how they work Above or below these and you may have problems with both accuracy and loading.
With Wal-Mart (red) pillow ticking the .310 is a nice tight load. You will need a starter but not a hammer.
Fox :thumbsup:
With Wal-Mart (red) pillow ticking the .310 is a nice tight load. You will need a starter but not a hammer.
Fox :thumbsup:
zimmerstutzen
70 Cal.
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I bought a 32 thinking I could just shoot buck, but now I can't find any buck that isn't hardened with antimony. About 20 years ago, pure lead buck was still available. Even Dixie Gun Works sold 5 lb bags.
Alternatively, finding a mold to cast balls without a huge spru would be nice too.
Alternatively, finding a mold to cast balls without a huge spru would be nice too.
Thanks Guys,
A friend is giving me some Hornady.310 cast(recommended load)and some .320(0) to try. I have blue ticking, as our WM doesn't have red, but you can see daylight so it's pretty light and may work with those balls. He also gave me some old heavy blue and I'm going to order up some .300(1)to work with at 25-50 yds. I'm thinking a smaller ball with a heavy patch to avoid hammering and distorting the ball or forcing lead into the rifling. So, I think we're on the same wave length, may the force be with me.... :thumbsup:
A friend is giving me some Hornady.310 cast(recommended load)and some .320(0) to try. I have blue ticking, as our WM doesn't have red, but you can see daylight so it's pretty light and may work with those balls. He also gave me some old heavy blue and I'm going to order up some .300(1)to work with at 25-50 yds. I'm thinking a smaller ball with a heavy patch to avoid hammering and distorting the ball or forcing lead into the rifling. So, I think we're on the same wave length, may the force be with me.... :thumbsup:
hanshi
Cannon
Lee molds cast without a sprue. Mostly what I use in all calibers, now.
Paul,
P.S. What is oburate/upset the lead ball? I thought is just left the barrel with a little spin?
Also, I'm lubing with mass quanities of good old spittle, I could try crisco or canola oil spray on my ticking.
And, I'm thinking of a 32 smoothie kit this winter, definitely #1 buck w/patch lube combo.
Even with no weight, wind issues and wonderful RB accuracy, I just love to play that little 32 number, light to carry, no recoil and one heck of a challenge, like trap w/.410. Too much fun.....
Cheers
P.S. What is oburate/upset the lead ball? I thought is just left the barrel with a little spin?
Also, I'm lubing with mass quanities of good old spittle, I could try crisco or canola oil spray on my ticking.
And, I'm thinking of a 32 smoothie kit this winter, definitely #1 buck w/patch lube combo.
Even with no weight, wind issues and wonderful RB accuracy, I just love to play that little 32 number, light to carry, no recoil and one heck of a challenge, like trap w/.410. Too much fun.....
Cheers
For experimentation purposes, you could buy a 5-pack of buckshot shotgun shells, cut up the shells to salvage the pellets, and see how your rifle likes it's new diet. If it doesn't, you aren't stuck with hundreds of pellets.If it does, you know what brand of buckshot pellets to buy.
wilded
40 Cal.
If you buy hornady buckshot you can shoot #1 or #0. #1 is .30 and the #0 is .320 both work .320 is tight to load and the .30 is easy unless you use a really thick patch. The .320 can also be used in a .31 1849 cap and ball. I shoot both out of my TC cherokee without problems. I have to have a clean bore and wipe between shots to shoot the .320 with a thin lubed patch and use a short starter. Accuracy is better with the .320 except for the first 15 yards and at that distance I can not tell the difference. Each barrel is different and the amount of powder you use will also make a difference. I shoot 15-20 grains of FFFg for small game as I get plenty of power and it stays cleaner than heavier loads. JMHO
PS: If you have a .36 caliber rifle Hornady #000 buckshot is great as it is .350 and shoots very well.
PS: If you have a .36 caliber rifle Hornady #000 buckshot is great as it is .350 and shoots very well.
paulvallandigham
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When the expanding gases move against the setting lead ball, the pressure of the gases pushes on the back of the ball harder than the front. That cause the ball to expand to the sides, or OBTURATE. The ball presses the cloth patch into the grooves of the rifling, but the lead does not expand enough to enter the rifling. Upsetting the shape of the ball or bullet is what happens with virtually all lead or lead core bullets and balls. Copper or Brass bullets don't appear to change their shape at normal working velocities, but I once saw time-lapse photos of a copper bullet being sent out of a barrel at around 6,000 fps. and there was no doubt it had changed shape a bit.
Under heat and enough pressure, all solids can become fluid, or even turn to gas.
Under heat and enough pressure, all solids can become fluid, or even turn to gas.
A fellow .32 enthusiast :applause: ...This is one of my really favorite calibers...you can cast your own but, Ballistic Products offers an excellant quality #1 buck shot pellet that is .300 and will fill the bill nicely for informal shooting and short range hunting/target work to 25/35 yards. 1350 balls in an 8# container that cost around $3 per 100. Good value in my book! :hatsoff:
I'VE GOT AN OLD ORIGINAL .317 OHIO RIFLE. I FOUND THAT THE MOST ACCURATE LOAD IS W/#1 BUCK (.300) W/GREASED PILLOW TICKING (RED STRIPE). I USE BORE BUTTER FOR GREASE. THE BIG SURPRISE FOR ME WAS THAT IT WAS MOST ACCURATE W/40 GRNS OF GOEX 3F. I HAD BEEN TRYING 10 TO 25 GRNS BUT ACCURACY PEAKED W/40.
Billnpatti
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I used to use #0 buckshot in my .32 rifle. I used a .010 tight weave cotton patch lubed with Bore Butter. For my charge, my rifle liked 30 grains of Goex fffG. The ball/patch combination was a tight fit and required a short starter to get it started but once it was started, it could be readily seated with a ramrod. Like any small bore, my .32 was prone to fouling and I needed to run a moist patch followed by a dry patch after about every 3 to 5 shots. Bore Butter seemed to keep this an easy job, though.
Wow, I love this forum, what a wealth of information.
I did forget to mention I wasn't interested in casting, too much work for balls that will be better than I can shoot. But, the input's great for those tempted to go that way.
When getting back into this, a friend from the 70's when I shot 50cal, said I would be shocked at the prices of lead, powder,caps,
he was right. He advised for just fun, economical target plinking, get the .32 and enjoy working up loads w/buck. I appreciate all the formulas, ideas and leads, I must search for red ticking and experiment with the lubes and was also considering pushing up the powder, also Goex 3F.
Many thanks, Dave
I did forget to mention I wasn't interested in casting, too much work for balls that will be better than I can shoot. But, the input's great for those tempted to go that way.
When getting back into this, a friend from the 70's when I shot 50cal, said I would be shocked at the prices of lead, powder,caps,
he was right. He advised for just fun, economical target plinking, get the .32 and enjoy working up loads w/buck. I appreciate all the formulas, ideas and leads, I must search for red ticking and experiment with the lubes and was also considering pushing up the powder, also Goex 3F.
Many thanks, Dave
wilded
40 Cal.
Remember the .32 is a small game rifle, unless you are hunting predators you do not need to burn large loads of powder. Here are some loads and velocities from a .32 TC Cherokee:
10 grains FFFg 1120 FPS equals standard .22 long rifle round
20 grains FFFg 1650 FPS
30 grains FFFg 1870 FPS
Try your rifle with small charges increasing the load in five grain increments and see what kind of accuracy you get. Body shots with over 20 grains tear up a lot of meat on squirrels and rabbits when a head shot is not possible. I have found that if I am not shooting predators or long range I can get a lot more shots per pound of powder with a 10 or 15 grain charge than the heavier loads. The shot is quieter and seems to foul the bore less. JMHO
10 grains FFFg 1120 FPS equals standard .22 long rifle round
20 grains FFFg 1650 FPS
30 grains FFFg 1870 FPS
Try your rifle with small charges increasing the load in five grain increments and see what kind of accuracy you get. Body shots with over 20 grains tear up a lot of meat on squirrels and rabbits when a head shot is not possible. I have found that if I am not shooting predators or long range I can get a lot more shots per pound of powder with a 10 or 15 grain charge than the heavier loads. The shot is quieter and seems to foul the bore less. JMHO
Joel/Calgary
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Coupola things:
Hornady advertised their buckshot as being pure lead - I use the #1/.300" in my .32.
The term "obturate" actually means to seal or stop up something, regardless of the mechanism used to accomplish this. The term is used in a number of scientific and technical areas, including biology. It is a transitive verb, properly used with some process or mechanism seals some other organ, device, or system. Nowadays it is frequently misused in internal ballistics in an intransitive form, conflating one particular mechanism (the expansion of a bullet on firing) with the effect (sealing the bore). It's the difference between "The deformation of the bullet on firing obturated the bore." and "The bullet obturated on firing".
So, what if the sealing is from a wad or filler under the ball or bullet? Add to that the ongoing debate of whether roundballs actually deform on firing the way elongate bullets do, or at least to the same extent (see the effects of a too-thin patch, for example), and the subject can generate some... discussion.
Regards,
Joel,
a linguistic purist
Hornady advertised their buckshot as being pure lead - I use the #1/.300" in my .32.
The term "obturate" actually means to seal or stop up something, regardless of the mechanism used to accomplish this. The term is used in a number of scientific and technical areas, including biology. It is a transitive verb, properly used with some process or mechanism seals some other organ, device, or system. Nowadays it is frequently misused in internal ballistics in an intransitive form, conflating one particular mechanism (the expansion of a bullet on firing) with the effect (sealing the bore). It's the difference between "The deformation of the bullet on firing obturated the bore." and "The bullet obturated on firing".
So, what if the sealing is from a wad or filler under the ball or bullet? Add to that the ongoing debate of whether roundballs actually deform on firing the way elongate bullets do, or at least to the same extent (see the effects of a too-thin patch, for example), and the subject can generate some... discussion.
Regards,
Joel,
a linguistic purist
paulvallandigham
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Buckshot contains too much antimony to upset, or " obturate" with the lower powder charges. The 40 grains of powder is outrageous for that caliber, but it enough to obturate those hard balls. Buy a .32 or .30 caliber ball mold from Lee Precision, and cast your own balls from pure lead. Then they will obturate at lower velocities and give you good accuracy, with 20-30 grain powder charges. ( and less). :thumbsup:
Greetings
Yes....good stuff, I ordered some Hornady #1, thinking to seal the charge/lands with the patch thickness/lube, hoping not to distort the ball for balance, spin, all that good stuff. My manual advises 20-35gr. max. so I'm hanging at twenty, figure I'll go thru all the patch/ball combos, then go up/down 5 gr. to find the magic bullet so those paper plates are dead meat. My range is 25,50,75yd, this weekend to make smoke and noise, a guy gave me some .330(00). I hammered it down on 20gr, there was just little pieces of patch left... but I missed a rock at the backstop, about 90yd by 6" to the left, it was right on elevation, so there's something to be said for tightness(oversize balls, thick patching, whatever), then at 25yd I was all over a 100yd target, ha, ha... :thumbsup:
Gonna keep at it, thanks
Yes....good stuff, I ordered some Hornady #1, thinking to seal the charge/lands with the patch thickness/lube, hoping not to distort the ball for balance, spin, all that good stuff. My manual advises 20-35gr. max. so I'm hanging at twenty, figure I'll go thru all the patch/ball combos, then go up/down 5 gr. to find the magic bullet so those paper plates are dead meat. My range is 25,50,75yd, this weekend to make smoke and noise, a guy gave me some .330(00). I hammered it down on 20gr, there was just little pieces of patch left... but I missed a rock at the backstop, about 90yd by 6" to the left, it was right on elevation, so there's something to be said for tightness(oversize balls, thick patching, whatever), then at 25yd I was all over a 100yd target, ha, ha... :thumbsup:
Gonna keep at it, thanks
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