.32 caliber dilemma...

[hanshi]

My Crockett easily grouped under 1" at 50 yards and I really enjoyed owning it for more than a dozen years. Many squirrels fell to that little rifle.

I recently sold it to pay for my TVM .32 Tn flintlock "poorboy". It's a tack driver, too. TVM is a great shop to do business with.

 

[Micah Clark]

I don't want to knock a company . . Like I said, I like the Crockett's size, appearance etc, and lots of folks rave about them, which is why I bought it, but I can't hunt with it . even using Hanshi's load in his notebook. . . maybe it is me. I did pick up some .20 pillow ticking to try from a show . . . having used .10 on up to .18. . . maybe that .20 will do it and I will change my mind about it. . . but if not, I am somewhat nervous that I am the problem. . though I can group my Lyman GPR no problem, and it's a flinter. . plus Traditions "group" from the factory was lame too. I bought the Crockett used and they told me its 10 years old . . . so who knows?
I may consider a TVM kit . . . I have the tools, my dad's shop is well stocked. He passed away 16 months ago. . were he still here, we'd do the kit, no reservations. . . I am also in Noblesville, IN near a place called Conner Prairie which has gun classes and I could probably find a builder to walk me through things. I really like the TVM late lancaster, and a left hand flint would be perfect. . . but accuracy is my main thing . . . haven't ruled out Pedersoli, (I can shoot right hand guns) . .but at 48, a good TVM would last me the rest of my life. . many things to consider.

 

[Crewdawg445]

I'll definitely be doing a TVM .32 poor boy once I get my current two projects completed, but that $400 scout was an absolute no brainer. I've also read were several people have had grouping issues with the crockett... However, my .50 caliber Hawken Woodsman I built is a tack driver, and the cheapest smoke pole I've purchased. Even after the L&R lock upgrade she still holds that title! I also have a GPR, also replaced the rock lock with an L&R and adore that rifle!

 

[Micah Clark]

Mountain Dewd, how many guns have you put together before the TVM you are doing now? (Just wondering how hard it might be for me.) (I do have a Jim Chambers DVD on building the KY rifle, I got a few years ago from TOW . . I think that's the DVD . . still in dad's shop at parent's house.)

 

[Grizzly Adams]

I have done pietta revolver kits, a small swivel breech pistol, and lots of woodworking stuff before doing my first kit. My first turned out reasonably well, but my second is shaping up to be much better. You can expect to build one of these guns and be proud of it if you have the tools, a familiarity with them, paitence, and lots of books and pictures to refer to.

 

[Crewdawg445]

+1 to what Mountain Dewd has said! I'd recommend a good reference and you mentioned the DVD, good start. I'm also very fond of the book "Recreating the American Longrifle". Excellent resource and very, very informative. Also, PATIENCE! :hatsoff:

 

[Micah Clark]

There's not much difference, maybe $100 to $150 between the Pedersoli kit and TVM kit, ( I know the Pedersoli Kit is much more finished than TVM, and nearly in the white.) but there's a huge difference between the TVM kit and the TVM "in the white" . . . $400 at least. . which makes me inclined to try the TVM kit. Lock inlet worries me the most, I think. . .as it is so visible. . . Thanks for the tips, I'll keep researching. . .and may take the plunge.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Between the two, IMO I'd jump on the TVM. American made and handcrafted with an excellent reputation. Not saying pedersoli isn't an excellent choice because I'm sure it's safe to say they are! My vote for the TVM, more of a handcrafted rifle hands down. Also, inlet work on the lock is easy, patience and a good reference will go a very long way. :thumbsup:

 

[Col. Batguano]

Just be warned, the smaller the caliber the more sensitive they are to slight variations in your load. Things like seating pressure make a bigger difference in smaller calibers than they do in big ones. A 32 cal RB doesn't weigh very much and doesn't take much powder to send on its' way.

 

[Micah Clark]

Yeah, I am trying to focus on seating pressure. . .and I know wind is a factor too. I have run the gambit from 15 to 30, maybe 35 grains of 3f Goex and Shutzen, and started trying some 2f Goex, but didn't see much difference in it, but didn't give it a lot of chance, either. I have most often used Hoppes BP. . dislike Bore butter, but I guess everyone starts with that. . .spit taught me how bad patches taste. . . I've also changed sights and the percussion nipple. . swabbed between shots, etc etc. Not saying I am not to blame . . I probably am, but I can get three .50's clover-leaf touching on my Lyman GPR at about 50 yards off a bench . . . can't do anything at all like that at 10 or 20 with my Crockett. . or if I do its two shots with three others every which way. My best load was a .311 ball, .15 pillow patch and 30 grains of goex, . . always use a felt over powder wad, and hoppes BP solvent & lube. . . may try it again with .20 patches. I should probably order Dutch Schultz's book or kit . . . I've read his web site so often, that's probably next. THANKS !!!

 

[Micah Clark]

Maybe I should look at a TVM in .36, perhaps more forgiving than the .32 . . .but I've got so much .32 manure, I'd feel kind of irresponsible changing to a new caliber . . and my cap & ball pistols are 36 (Uberti .380) and 44 . . . then again, .36 is about all I don't have (ha!) The wife might not understand that .. the TVM isn't going to be an easy sell with the war department to start with (ha!).

 

[Alden]

Anyone care Dixie has .30-something caliber Pedersoli Pennsylvania rifles on sale as of today?

 

[Micah Clark]

Dixie likes to tempt me . . . I've been watching their Pedersoli Pennsylvania and Scout kits in .32 for months. . . thinking about them if I can't get satisfaction from my Crockett. That may be the next prudent step rather than diving into a TVM kit as it sounds like Pedersoli kits are nearly "in the white" completed. . . and they have a walnut stock, which is nothing to sneeze at. . . I just don't know how well they shoot in .32 . . most say good things, and everyone says they are far better than traditions and the step just below a custom. TVM uses Rice barrels for .32 . . which I think are pretty good. (Why are all the .32s in 1:48 ??)

 

[Micah Clark]

Hanshi, this is what Traditions sent back to me with my Crockett after they shot it at their range at 50 yards and said that these results were within their factory specs. It "grouped fine" according to them. It's upside down, but my I-phone is there to show the size of their "acceptable group."
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll22/Micah67/unknown_zpswa9wfnnr.jpeg

 

[Crewdawg445]

I use mink tallow, cut my patches at the muzzle, and swab between shots with moose milk. Easy as that and my results have always been rewarding, enough so to take squirrel, rabbit and white tail If I do my part. I to have purchased Mr. Schultz's literature and it simply works, again if you apply his teachings. Definitely worth the offering price.

May I ask what type of ball your using (brand) and patch materials?

 

[coloradoclyde]

Acceptable. :shocked2: :shocked2: :shocked2:
Offhand from the hip, blindfolded with one arm tied behind my back shot from galloping horseback .......maybe :youcrazy:

 

[Silky921]

War department made me laugh. It feels that way sometimes. However, I have heard that a 36 is more forgiving than a 32. Used to shoot a 36 that my grandpa made when I was a youngster. Freaking tack driver....

 

[Crewdawg445]

.32 is definitely squirrely... lol, one thing I've done is weigh my lead and cast out all the odd balls. Since I've done this I've honestly noticed a difference in groups. Now once I start casting I'll have enough lead to start out!

 

[Micah Clark]

I have mostly used Hornady .310 in the red box . . . but have also shot some .311 from a local company called Flintlocks, Inc, which my guess would come from a Lee mold as they have a sprue. I also have some .315 from them that I have never used . . they are my start over from scratch plan w thin patch again. I've used Ox Yoke .10 .12 and .15 pre cuts, lubed with wonderlube or whatever it is they use that is yellow . . . My .50 hunting load in my Lyman is a .15 pillow ticking pre-cut patch soaked (often for days) in Hoppes BP solvent & lube . . . I've used those in the Crockett too, pre-cuts, probably the most often in fact . . also tried those patches (.15 pillow) w. spit and w bore butter. I bought bore butter first for my Cap & Ball revolvers . . . not real fond of it . . .messy and melts quickly, but it shoots OK in my Lyman GPR. I've never cut patches from a roll of cloth, but have seen it at shows.

I have some new .20 pre-lube cut patches for my next attempt from Flintlocks Inc with a lube that is white, don't think its moose milk, more of a paste, but pretty slick .. . they said it was popular with their customers.

Also, I have had very little success finding and inspecting my patches in the Crockett . . . I mostly shoot with a felt wad over the powder just to make sure the patch isn't burning . . . have used those lubed, but then bought unlubed later. . can't tell much of any accuracy difference with them.

 

[Crewdawg445]

Okay, the Hornady balls are mainly what I use and I've got a good pile to melt! I also do have a Lee .311 mold coming to start casting consistent lead. I personally hate precut patches... Each rifle obviously responds differently, but mine all seem to like being cut at the muzzle. Also, it's more historically accurate. My method is to head to Wally world or hobby lobby with my mic. measure my ticking material (compressed) and usually get .15 to .18, then buy a bunch!