36 cal wonder wads in 44 cal

[Bad Karma]

36 cal lubed wonder wads do fit snug and don’t have to forced in like the 44 wads, when the charge goes off I would expect the wad to expand and lube on the wad to liquify, just my thinking

You’ll never know until you try. One of the best things about this hobby… you build a custom load chain every time so experimenting is always easy to do.

 

[Anneman]

You asked, so here goes.
The wads don't wipe a thing. The fouling is BEHIND them. A press fit ball is in front of them. I believe the 8-10,000 psi from the burning powder vaporizes the lube, like how a diesel engine works. The lube turns into a cloud and coats the bore as well as mixes with the fouling and carries it out of the bore. Maybe, this is only theory and would be hard to prove. Here's something to think about.
Last Sunday I shot my 62 police 15 shots with powder and a ball with a lubed wad in between. The bore had a thin film of fouling but the rifling was visible. On my way home I realized that I hadn't tried it with lubed conicals. So, 15grs 3f goex and a Lee conical lubed with my homemade lube. After 5 shots, this was my bore with zero cleaning. There were NO WADS involved, so what cleaned((scraped) the bore and why is there no fouling after the last shot? The bore:View attachment 383960
I welcome discussion on the matter, but please don't just repeat dogma, actually do some experimenting and report your findings. I'm still waiting on pictures of a bore after several cylinders worth of bullets fired with lube over the balls. To the lab, fellas!

 

[Anneman]

What is the difference between a lubed wad and a seal? I bought Ox Seals instead of wads. Can I use the seal as a wad? They appear to be the same.

 

[ernbar]

Check this link out, I have all the former kits , this one is the best I have used and very easy to use.

Looks like a simpler method, it got my attention. Do they make it for .36 also? My only concern is the extra paper covering the round ball that can cause paper jams between the cylinder face and forcing cone. Thinking that the extra paper is scraped off as the cartridge is rammed down the chamber. Have you experienced any paper jams using this method?

 

[smoothshooter]

You asked, so here goes.
The wads don't wipe a thing. The fouling is BEHIND them. A press fit ball is in front of them. I believe the 8-10,000 psi from the burning powder vaporizes the lube, like how a diesel engine works. The lube turns into a cloud and coats the bore as well as mixes with the fouling and carries it out of the bore. Maybe, this is only theory and would be hard to prove. Here's something to think about.
Last Sunday I shot my 62 police 15 shots with powder and a ball with a lubed wad in between. The bore had a thin film of fouling but the rifling was visible. On my way home I realized that I hadn't tried it with lubed conicals. So, 15grs 3f goex and a Lee conical lubed with my homemade lube. After 5 shots, this was my bore with zero cleaning. There were NO WADS involved, so what cleaned((scraped) the bore and why is there no fouling after the last shot? The bore:View attachment 383960
I welcome discussion on the matter, but please don't just repeat dogma, actually do some experimenting and report your findings. I'm still waiting on pictures of a bore after several cylinders worth of bullets fired with lube over the balls. To the lab, fellas!

Wads in revolvers serve no purpose except holding lube.
Any size and shape will do as long as they will fit in the chamber.
I don’t think lead deposits in the bore are a thing with percussion revolvers. Only burnt powder fouling.

 

[bpd303]

I had pictures of old Colt loading directions. On one it said to put grease on the cylinder pin (arbor) and the chambers over the ball. A later one said to grease the cylinder pin but eliminated grease over the ball. I haven't greased the ball in decades as long as the ball fits tight and doesn't move under recoil. Never had a leading problem.

 

[ernbar]

Wads in revolvers serve no purpose except holding lube.
Any size and shape will do as long as they will fit in the chamber.
I don’t think lead deposits in the bore are a thing with percussion revolvers. Only burnt powder fouling.

From my experience, using lubed wads or lube over the balls keeps the fowling softer in both the cylinder and barrel. I don’t see a leading issue with BP guns either which becomes an issue at higher velocities in smokeless applications in unmentionables.
I noticed that after two or 3 cylinders fired when no lube is used it takes more effort to ram the ball into the cylinder having a sort of grinding gummy feeling and the barrel looks extremely dirty. When using lube, the barrel looks to be less messy and loading the cylinder after several firings feels normal when ramming the ball down. I make my own lube out of a candle making brick sold at Hobby Lobby made from Beeswax and coconut oil. I melt chucks in a small jar on a hot plate to carry to the range. Once cooled I can scoop some with a flat wood popsicle stick and apply over the ball. It won’t melt and run or get blown off like bore butter. It’s cheap and works great. I have melted it as a dip for conical and wads. For wads I have used wool felt and brass or steel fired cases to punch them out over a wood board using a hammer.

 

[smoothshooter]

From my experience, using lubed wads or lube over the balls keeps the fowling softer in both the cylinder and barrel. I don’t see a leading issue with BP guns either which becomes an issue at higher velocities in smokeless applications in unmentionables.
I noticed that after two or 3 cylinders fired when no lube is used it takes more effort to ram the ball into the cylinder having a sort of grinding gummy feeling and the barrel looks extremely dirty. When using lube, the barrel looks to be less messy and loading the cylinder after several firings feels normal when ramming the ball down. I make my own lube out of a candle making brick sold at Hobby Lobby made from Beeswax and coconut oil. I melt chucks in a small jar on a hot plate to carry to the range. Once cooled I can scoop some with a flat wood popsicle stick and apply over the ball. It won’t melt and run or get blown off like bore butter. It’s cheap and works great. I have melted it as a dip for conical and wads. For wads I have used wool felt and brass or steel fired cases to punch them out over a wood board using a hammer.

I don’t like the grease over the chambers because it adds to the mess, and is not practical to use in the field. The beeswax/olive oil mix I use on the wads and arbor work perfectly in my experience.

 

[ernbar]

I don’t like the grease over the chambers because it adds to the mess, and is not practical to use in the field. The beeswax/olive oil mix I use on the wads and arbor work perfectly in my experience.

I partially agree with you about using grease or bore butter. It’s messy and gets all over the gun when firing and melts on hot summer days. Wads are a neater better choice specially in the field.
However, the beeswax mix I use stays put and semi solid even in the summer, won’t run and melt over your hand or frame.
I use both lubed wads or my mix, just depends on rotation. Either method works for me.