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3F for 12GA

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Keppy

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I have a New Englander 12ga and was wondering if anyone has loads for 12ga using FFF goex, with any sucess. I have been using FF but have a lot more FFF on hand."just :hmm: " This is all new to me but a lot of fun. :) :grin: :wink: Thanks
 
can you show some pics i'm trying to decide on one of chambers fowlers and can't decide
if not no problem thanks
joe
 
You can use FFFG but you need to reduce your loads by 10-15%, as the FFFG will have higher pressures. I woud start with 15% less first and the work upto 10% of what you FFG load was, and see what patterns best.

Bill
 
three f is fine for 12 guage, altho my chronograph tests proved i was getting blown patterns when trying to up velocity with my guns..... .. I just couldnt figure out why some of the loads were well over 1100 fps and the others were not, and patterns wernt blown out of the ball park.. Finnaly figured it had to be blow by.. the early shot was setting the chrono up to as much as 1400 fps.. .. IN cold weather its great stuff.. I mean COLLLLD... Another problem its not beginner powder in 12 gauge.... You need to have plenty of experience with loading, always check for depth of load on your hand when done loading, and here is where the experience comes in,, PULL THE LOAD if the ramrod is over the finger count on the hand... When things go wrong, 2f is alot more forgiving.. doubleing shot or powder with 3f could cost you a hand.. Probably not, but much better safe than sorry.. I use 90 3f/90 lead shot, but my gun is jug choked, and you sure dont want 180 grains 3f in there... 90 grains is in winter,, things are a heck of alot diferent at 90 degrees, than 45, than 10 below, in the black powder world....as suggested above 75- 80 grains should be a good load.. But you have to measure your loads each time... If you find your not doing this, 3f is too hot of powder for you.. dave..
 
Here is my New Englander 12GA It came with three screw in chokes.
Pictures are small for some reason.
[url] http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f63/51349/12GA006.jpg[/url]
[url] http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f63/51349/12GA001.jpg[/url]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have been shooting prb and I have gotten in the habit of marking the ram rod. Knock on wood haven't double loaded yet.
 
Hacksaw said:
"...in the habit of marking the ram rod..."
Smart...IMO, a witness mark is just about the most important thing there is in all of the elements of loading and shooting muzzleloaders.

Doesn't stop me from double charging, or dry balling, or double balling...but I know it immediately as soon as I do it
 
Stick with FFg powder. You can use FFFG powder, but you will have to work up patterns all over again, and that can take lots of hours, and lots more powder. It would be simpler to just order some more FFg powder and stick with what got you here.

Any time you change any component in a BP rifle or shotgun, you can expect changes in POI, group size, or pattern, etc. The exceptions are always a surprise and worth noting in your range book. ( even changing the brand of percussion caps can lead to different results.)
 
:applause: :applause: Thanks to all. I have worked up loads with FF and #6 shot that the grouse are going to have a hard time dealing with out to 30 yards. That is if I'm fast enough to put it where it should be. These loads were all from this forum.I'll stick with FF. Unlimited amount of info here on this forum. :thumbsup:
 
Test

12GA002.jpg
 
FFg is the proper powder for a 12 bore. Trying to make a magnum out of a muzzle loading smooth bore by using finer powder isn't the way to go. If you are getting 1100 f.p.s. out of a 12 gauge and want more punch, go to a ten gauge--just like they did back in the day. Bah humbug...
 
I've used 75 grs 3f in my 12 ga flinter for round balls, but not for birdshot. It has no choke, so I get my best patterns using 70 gr. 1f with 80-90grs shot. the lower presure of the 1f seems to make a big difference.
 
Russ T Frizzen said:
FFg is the proper powder for a 12 bore. Trying to make a magnum out of a muzzle loading smooth bore by using finer powder isn't the way to go.

Just to offer a different view, it should not be assumed that using 3F in place of 2F is to make something a magnum.

I use 3F in everything that I can for a couple of reasons...3F is faster and cleaner than 2F.

And I reduce the amount of a 3F powder charge when I substitute it for a 2F powder charge to keep the pressures in the same ballpark...it is basically still just a 2F shotgun load, simply being produced by an appropriate amount of 3F powder...which burns faster and cleaner.
 
For shot loads you will need to see what works best, a mix of half 3f and half 2f is another option I used it with good results in a .62 with ball and shot, I used an empty Q. oats box to mix it in and it will not seperate enough to be a problem after mixing, I believe the Mad Monk debunked that one a few years ago by screening the top of some mixed powder then driving around with the containers in the trunk for quite a while then re-screening and found little change.
 
I tried out 3F in my 12 gauge years ago but could never get it to pattern well with it. Dropping the load down helped a bit but it never did pattern as well as with 2F. It did not seem to matter when shooting round balls but the shot did not like 3F.

You will have to try it and see if it is the same story with your gun.
 
I've always used FFG in my smoothbores. I have a feeling that the slower burning powder gives a steadier push in a fowler's long barrel whereas FFFg burns well before it reaches the end of the bore--well before. Might be a different story in a shorter barreled percussion double, though. Never had a problem from fouling with FFg, either.
 
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