Mike Brooks said:Any reason you decided to put the trigger guard on in that fashion?
Well.... Some things are so much fun you wonder IF they are legal...
All I can say is WOW! Shooting that 4 bore blunderbuss was terrific! It fired flawlessly and it made one large appliance box wish it never lived.
As far as the load I ended up at 100 grains of black and twenty-five 38 caliber round balls, so about 4.5 ounces (128 grams) of shot! That load had a stout kick that made me laugh out loud. It is definitely a small cannon. I shot it at about 30 feet and it had approx a 30 inch "pattern". As some may recall I bought alot of the parts from Michael Lea and the barrel from Stone Creek, a Rayle's steel 4 gauge 20 inch barrel. I also bought 4 bore precut WADS and over shot cards from Michael Lea which worked very well and kept the powder and round balls very tight. I have to order MORE of those!
I'm going to load it up with 4 ounces or so of #4 shot and I would say I have my Turkey gun! Sure, I will experiment increasing the powder some however 100 grains of 3 F seemed plenty and out of that short barrel more powder just may be a waste.
Does anyone know where I can buy some .995 to 1.020 Lead Round Balls???
Armor was blued in days of old, up till reading your post I assumed ( yes I know what that means) it was the same way,boiling freshly browned.For the nurds in the crowd, the soft red rust that no one wants on their guns is Ferric Oxide.
Ferrous Oxide is the hard brown rust that many people like to see on their guns metal parts.
It absorbs oil well and once this is done it will prevent further rusting of the iron or steel that is under it.
By exposing unoiled Ferrous Oxide to steam or hot water the rust is converted to Ferro-Ferric Oxide which is blue-black.
Actually it is more black than blue.
John Bivins feels that Rust Bluing was seldom used prior to the 19th Century although I am not sure how many English or European guns and armor he studied.
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