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.40 vs .36?

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In desperation for a hickory ramrod that had no run out and with no trees available in my area I finally bought a hickory stave such as bowyers use.

I took some work but I ended up with two ramrods and two cleaning rods that have served me well for many years now.
 
The Log Cabin shop has hickory ramrods for a really good price and they're without run-out. Lots of hickory around here, but working a ramrod down for me isn't worth the effort.
 
Did I ever tell you about the time my factory ramrod broke in half?...cleaved cleanly in two on grain run-out at nearly a 45 degree angle..

I epoxied it back together and pinned it....it lasted another 15 years of hard service...
 
I'm always amazed at the number of people who come forward to tell folks how they have survived a dangerous situation and then brag about how they continued to do the same thing or use the same defective thing for years without any further harm. :confused:

My amazement goes back to the days when seat belts were first installed in cars.

Whenever people said using them was a good idea in the interests of safety, dozens of people I knew bragged,
"I never wear one and I've driven thousands of miles without a problem."

All I can say is, I hope your defective ramrod doesn't break again and sever an artery, killing you.

I'd hate to lose someone I know. :shake:
 
It seems there's not a whole lot of difference in a .36 VS a .40.....except when one considers the RR dia. The .40 would allow a 3/8 dia RR and this is more important than the caliber chosen.

My choice for small game is a .45 for a couple reasons....first the RR dia and then the fact that many states allow deer hunting w/ a .45.

Also, when I shoot a rifle I like to know that I'm shooting.......haven't shot .22s for many years.....no fun. My favorite CF deer rifle is a .300 Win Mag.

I build LRs and choosing a small caliber such as a .36 or .40 and a "skinny" straight bbl produces a "skinny" looking LR which certainly doesn't look right. So, irrespective of the small caliber chosen, a swamped bbl w/ a minimum breech of 15/16" {"A" weight} lends itself to a nice looking LR and one that's well balanced in spite of the slightly increased weight.

But, choose what you will...nothing wrong w/ that....Fred
 
NO, I do not think it akin to driving drunk AT ALL.....and I struggle to reason how you can possibly think the two are slightly related...I'm trying hard to remain civil; as a LEO of 23 years, jailing over 50 intoxicated drivers, working scores of accidents caused by drunk drivers...I find that comment very irritating.

The wooden ramrod WAS the accepted tool for loading a muzzleloader for centuries. Yes, there are modern materials available now...but in 1980 in the middle of no-where and this wonderful site wasn't around to tell me of my wrongs...I DID use wooden ramrods, and continue to use them, having made many.

Think of it like a saw...used correctly you can use one all your life and never have a problem. But used ONCE wrong and it can go bad quick.

My method for using the device you find so dangerous is to choke up on it and not grab more than 8-12 inches at a time. I still have all my digits, but I have felt one start to break and firing was halted.

IS a non-wood ramrod superior to a wooden one? It's harder to break, for sure. Is using the wooden ramrod the same as driving drunk....that's absurd.
you must need a nap or something...
 
Smokey Plainsman said:
Strict now I'm leaning .36. But the skinnier ramrod does give me pause.

I wonder, are they much easier to break given proper use?
I've been shooting a .30 caliber flintlock rifle since 1976, always with a wooden ramrod, with tight-fitting patched balls, and have never broken one.

Spence
 
scores of accidents caused by drunk drivers

The wooden ramrod WAS the accepted tool for loading a muzzleloader for centuries.

Some of the drunks didn't have accidents either.
Wood was the only material available in the days of an average lifespan of 45 years. What might be only a small incident today was often fatal for a man alone in the wilderness. I'm not keen on being that 'authentic'.
 
Spence10 said:
Smokey Plainsman said:
Strict now I'm leaning .36. But the skinnier ramrod does give me pause.

I wonder, are they much easier to break given proper use?
I've been shooting a .30 caliber flintlock rifle since 1976, always with a wooden ramrod, with tight-fitting patched balls, and have never broken one.

Spence


:applause: :applause:
 
I don't think the ramrod should be an issue. I think the proper way is to walk down the rod (hand about 6" from muzzle) rather putting a lot of pressure on the rod at the tip. I've never run across a historical diary or journal that mentions an injury from a snapped ramrod.
I am wondering about accuracy. According to the theory there is an ideal rifling twist for each caliber however I don't know if there is an ideal twist manufacturered for a 36 caliber but I believe there is for a 40. A lot of folks claim the 40 is very accurate.
 
I broke a ramrod on my .32 and stabbed my hand. I bought a new one, can't remember from whom, and use a steel range rod for my shooting.

If handled properly, and if it's thick enough, wood is fine so long as the rift (the runout) is controlled. I suppose you could wrap the rod with re-inforcing bands of thread every few inches if the size would allow it. Kinda like wrapping a fishing rod.
 
I don't think the ramrod should be an issue. I think the proper way is to walk down the rod (hand about 6" from muzzle) rather putting a lot of pressure on the rod at the tip. I've never run across a historical diary or journal that mentions an injury from a snapped ramrod.

I think ramrod safety is a very important issue. Using a rod, of any material, properly is something that not all observe. Hence, my comparison to drunk driving. You probably haven't read about it because many injuries, from any cause, were fatal. Ded men don't write too gud. :v
 
An impaled object through your hand is no joke. Stabilized one in a hand from loading a pistol not a rifle at a competition at Fort TY. Was a very veteran shooter and put him out of work for 2 months, so make fun of being carefull of wood rods as when you do it will most likely not be nice.

There is no reason at a competition to not use a better rod to load one. Unless you want to be fully period correct. Then when it does go bad forget the anti-biotic's and have a re-enactor bleed you to get rid of the fever.

It STOPS when it becomes life or death forget playng. Just MHO
 
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