Deep? (snow I mean) :rotf:
.50 CVA pistol
- Thread starter Adui
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That said, my reading suggests that 45 grains is a max load, and 20-25 is the so called optimum load. (I know I will need to find that myself)
What would those of you who have fired a muzzleloading pistol in .50 cal use as a STARTING load?
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I suggest using the tightest patch that loads comfortably. I'd start at 15 grains and shoot 5 shot groups raising 5 gr at a time until your best group arrives. Then (for pistols/revolvers) I would play with that grain area adding 2.5 grains and removing 2.5 grains at a time. Now yer fine tuned and can play with lubes, caps, chew (Grizzly wintergreen wide or long cut will likely be the best for your pistol). You should be able to get 3 inch groups at 35 yds with a rest. I had a CVA MNT pistol once I could hit a quarter EVERY shot at 25-30 yds. 40 yds it was getting a bigger group and past that not reliable (no idea why :idunno: ) But at 25 yds I'd bet guys a dollar a shot I could hit a quarter (theirs) and they usually stopped at 5 dbl or nothing :grin: Cost em $6.25 and they kept the quarters we could find :haha:
Of all the many guns I have had and sold/traded thats the one I would take back first
What would those of you who have fired a muzzleloading pistol in .50 cal use as a STARTING load?
[/quote]
I suggest using the tightest patch that loads comfortably. I'd start at 15 grains and shoot 5 shot groups raising 5 gr at a time until your best group arrives. Then (for pistols/revolvers) I would play with that grain area adding 2.5 grains and removing 2.5 grains at a time. Now yer fine tuned and can play with lubes, caps, chew (Grizzly wintergreen wide or long cut will likely be the best for your pistol). You should be able to get 3 inch groups at 35 yds with a rest. I had a CVA MNT pistol once I could hit a quarter EVERY shot at 25-30 yds. 40 yds it was getting a bigger group and past that not reliable (no idea why :idunno: ) But at 25 yds I'd bet guys a dollar a shot I could hit a quarter (theirs) and they usually stopped at 5 dbl or nothing :grin: Cost em $6.25 and they kept the quarters we could find :haha:
Of all the many guns I have had and sold/traded thats the one I would take back first
Pictures for the group
That didnt work..
That didnt work..
Hmmm
Aparently Im not nearly as tech savy as i once was cause that should've worked and it didnt.
Anyway. Upon closer inspection of the firearm (I attached a tube to the nipple and blew) it seems I now know why it ended up in the shop.. Someone dryballed it and didnt know how to fix it.
I stand by my original assessment in that I don't think it was ever fired, or fired much. its in too good a shape, AND the bore is coated in grease both in front of and behind the ball, the lock has a bunch of grease in it as well making me believe it was factory shipped and never properly cleaned before being taken to the range / woods/ whatever.
All that said, I ain't no exspurt and I'm just making a series of SWAGS.
bottom line so long as I can clear the dryball Im keeping it. I did make the clerk assure me I can return it for a refund if I cant clear it.
Im 99% positive there is no powder in the breach but still would rather pull it that shoot it out just because Im a bit paranoid and like all my appendages attached the way they are. Trouble is the brand new ball puller I picked up at the Sportsmans Warehouse wont even dent the ball much less screw into it. I'm going to have to try compressed air or..
Anyway. Upon closer inspection of the firearm (I attached a tube to the nipple and blew) it seems I now know why it ended up in the shop.. Someone dryballed it and didnt know how to fix it.
I stand by my original assessment in that I don't think it was ever fired, or fired much. its in too good a shape, AND the bore is coated in grease both in front of and behind the ball, the lock has a bunch of grease in it as well making me believe it was factory shipped and never properly cleaned before being taken to the range / woods/ whatever.
All that said, I ain't no exspurt and I'm just making a series of SWAGS.
bottom line so long as I can clear the dryball Im keeping it. I did make the clerk assure me I can return it for a refund if I cant clear it.
Im 99% positive there is no powder in the breach but still would rather pull it that shoot it out just because Im a bit paranoid and like all my appendages attached the way they are. Trouble is the brand new ball puller I picked up at the Sportsmans Warehouse wont even dent the ball much less screw into it. I'm going to have to try compressed air or..
The photo is out of focus but the pistol looks pretty clean.
Thand Bearkiller! Just messed around in the forum help section and figured out what went wrong!
Left side is a bit crisper image
Whaddya expect from a cell phone pic...
Sweet you did it! :hatsoff:
I do have one question. Never having had one of these. I dont see any barrel pins, wedges etc. Yet it looks like a hook breech like my rifle. How is the barrel held in? (I dont eve expect I'll NEED to remove it; but it would be nice to know how.)
Probably secured by screws underneath accessed through the ramrod thimble and nose cap.
I will
note since it cant be seen in the pics. The ramrod isn't stock, and is tipped with what appears to be a 9mm shell that's been ground so the base stamp is gone.. Really REALLY wish Id not tossed the broken pieces of my delrin ramrod from my .50 rifle.. that would have been a SWEET replacement.
note since it cant be seen in the pics. The ramrod isn't stock, and is tipped with what appears to be a 9mm shell that's been ground so the base stamp is gone.. Really REALLY wish Id not tossed the broken pieces of my delrin ramrod from my .50 rifle.. that would have been a SWEET replacement.
Side note: didn't get to work with the same salesman; and TBH I'd have probably been arrested for smacking him but I gotta admit it would have been fun... :rotf:Bearkiller said:
It doesn"t have either. Any chance that can be corrected? It works good, and I REALLY like the trigger! (Snapped it with a leather belt over the nipple) Lets just say I've unmentionables with worse triggers.DoubleDeuce 1 said:
DOUBLEDEUCE 1
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If you can find an old lock with the bridle, it should just drop in. It looks like you have a newer version than what I have. The barrel is held in place with screws going through the nose cap, and the barrel tang.
Have you dropped the ramrod down the bore to check on how deep it goes ? That can tell you for certain if there is a ball stuck in the barrel. Try popping a cap if you are certain there’s no powder. You can also pull the nipple and trickle a little bit of powder into the drum. Replace the nipple, cap it and fire. That might be enough to push the ball out.
Have you dropped the ramrod down the bore to check on how deep it goes ? That can tell you for certain if there is a ball stuck in the barrel. Try popping a cap if you are certain there’s no powder. You can also pull the nipple and trickle a little bit of powder into the drum. Replace the nipple, cap it and fire. That might be enough to push the ball out.
DOUBLEDEUCE 1
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I just noticed there is only the single screw securing the lock plate. I never noticed that before. If the lock functions to your liking, I wouldn’t fiddle with it. There might be an adjustment screw in the tumbler to adjust the trigger set in the tumbler notch.
Overall, it looks pretty dang good. :thumbsup:
Overall, it looks pretty dang good. :thumbsup:
Dropped the ramrod and measured is how I knew to check for a ball. Its got to be seated all the way against the patent breach (assuming there is a patent breach on this) I also shined a light down the bore to look. As Ive sad Im 99% sure there is no powder charge in her, so if my compressor cant punch it out Im going to charge it by dropping powder through the cleanout screw hole in the drum.
Just because I am paranoid Im hoping the compressor will do the job
Just because I am paranoid Im hoping the compressor will do the job
zimmerstutzen
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No 1, it is not a patent breech.
No 2. a lock with a bridle and fly will not just drop in. The bridle makes the whole lock thicker in that place and the lock mortise would have to be inlet deeper where the bridle fits.
No 3, with the cross threaded breech system used by CVA, a ram rod is not likely to go all the way back to the drum. Giving the impression of a dry ball. Inserting a ball puller will go back into the breech a bit further, but will not screw into the metal of the breech.
No 4., I had the experience where some idiot ran a patched steel ball bearing down the bore. No ball puller on earth will get it.
No 5., yes try compressed air.
No. 6., do not pull the drum. It is cross threaded through the breech plug and will be very difficult to line up again.
No. 7., the drum should have a clean out screw to see if the flash channel between the nipple and the bore is blocked.
No 2. a lock with a bridle and fly will not just drop in. The bridle makes the whole lock thicker in that place and the lock mortise would have to be inlet deeper where the bridle fits.
No 3, with the cross threaded breech system used by CVA, a ram rod is not likely to go all the way back to the drum. Giving the impression of a dry ball. Inserting a ball puller will go back into the breech a bit further, but will not screw into the metal of the breech.
No 4., I had the experience where some idiot ran a patched steel ball bearing down the bore. No ball puller on earth will get it.
No 5., yes try compressed air.
No. 6., do not pull the drum. It is cross threaded through the breech plug and will be very difficult to line up again.
No. 7., the drum should have a clean out screw to see if the flash channel between the nipple and the bore is blocked.
