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50cal T/C Hawken

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He charged $130.00 shipped and the wait time was six weeks. That was last February. He is in great demand so I can't speak for his shop load now.
 
I have a barrel that i will be sending him , after the holidays are over. so his workmanship is real nice? i like to have it for hunting and target shooting more than likely just a patched round ball twist like a 1-66 twist i hear is good.
 
Were you shooting conicals or patched roundball?
Lead fouling?

Did you clean the rifle with water? Or are you just using patches soaked in various solvents?
 
I see all kinds of barrels for low price, but when you look at them there is a reason they are so low is what I have found. You may get lucky and get a good one for a cheap price. I look for "unfired" blemish and rust free barrel only and you usually pay for them. That barrel I paid $400 with shipping was a TC Custom Shop barrel special edition, only a few manufactured like it. So, I paid a premium price for it, but it is worth a premium price and it is still unfired in my safe. You never know. LOL
 
Let's back the truck up a minute.

Is this your first muzzleloader?
Do you know how to clean a muzzleloader?
Did you clean and inspect this gun before you shot it?
What did you shoot out of it ?
How long did the gun sit after you fired it until the time you cleaned it?

What do you mean by this statement?

Anyway I shot it a couple of shots and then stripped it down and refinished it. Cleaned and cleaned on the bore but still didn't feel right compared to my pistols.


:shocked2: :shocked2:
 
I'm not really experienced in BP. I've shot BP pistols for the past year. I just bought this rifle and shot 4 round ball shots through it and then cleaned it. It didn't feel right from the get go. But after buying that light I could see the problem. Then I checked my pistols with the light and they were in good shape. So I'm fairly sure it isn't my cleaning process. The Hawken that I had bought had not been properly cared for. I have and buy a lot of guns but the muzzleloader fever has just struck me in the past few months so I scrambling around trying to learn as much as I can. I'm pretty sure I'm just going to shoot patched round balls through my BP guns.
 
When I got it home I made sure the bore was empty with the ramrod and then stepped out back and shot it. Then I stripped it down and refinished the wood and the finish on the barrel. My process for cleaning is a bucket of hot soapy water, swabbing until clean, and then fresh water, drying, and then a patch of light oil. It never did feel smooth even after the patch was returning clean. After buying the light I could see the problem. Scaring me some thinking it was my process I examined my pistols with the light and they were spotless. My biggest lesson learnt is that when I buy another muzzleloader I will take my light with me.
 
I make it a point to not shoot any of my guns BP or center fire unless I have time to go straight to the bench when I'm finished. I work away from home and can be gone for months at a time, and don't want to take the chance of leaving any of them dirty.
 
This stuff http://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...mbedding-bore-cleaning-compound-prod1160.aspx in combination with Kroil after the Chore Girl copper pads will clean a barrel beautifully. If it shoots well, I'd be reluctant to change it or re-bore it. Many folks have reported excellent accuracy from a pitted barrel. Thoroughly clean and polish your barrel and if it is accurate, keep it. This video is showing the use of Kroil and J.B. paste in a modern gun but it works just as well in a muzzleloader and you can use a tight fitting patch instead of the felt pellets that he is using.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaPzrAfemIE
 
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Ok so the gun was that way when you bought it.
So it wasn't anything that you did.(that's good)

Sounds to me like the pervious owner didn't take good care of it.

The big question is how does it shoot/group?
 
Barrel has cleaned up well. I used the advice of using the copper scrub pad and I'm pleased with the outcome. Hopefully get to shoot it several shots and will give a report on how she groups out. Thanks for taking the time to lend your advice.
 
When you do get around to shooting your Hawken, be sure to pick up the fired patches.

They will be 10-20 feet downrange, often a little to the side of the line of sight if any breeze is blowing.

These fired patches will tell you a lot about the condition of your barrel.

The outer edges will be tattered and frayed so don't worry if yours are.
The thing to look at is the ring where the ball was making contact with the bore and rifling.

If it is not cut or burned, your barrel is in great shape, regardless of the appearance of the bore.

If it has burned thru but doesn't look like it has localized cuts, it indicates the patch is too thin for the powder charge you are using.
Increasing the patch thickness and/or increasing the patch lube sometimes helps.

If the patch has localized cuts or rips where it contacted the bore it indicates the bore is rough or pitted.

The very center of the fired patch may look browned but if it is not burned your using enough patch lube and your powder charge isn't excessive.
(Note: 777 has a reputation for burning patches even though the material and lube is all right. If this happens when your using 777, reduce the size of your powder charge or use a different powder.)

I also need to mention, factory made pre-lubricated patches will become weak if they have been sitting on your gun-shops shelf for a long time. I've personally seen old pre-lubricated patches get blown to shreds even though they were the right thickness and shot in a perfect barrel with a light powder charge.
Use un-lubricated patches and apply your own patch lube. :)
 
He does very good work and is easy to deal with. He pre-paid the return shipping on my barrel and included an invoice in the package for the amount owed. Unusual to find that level of trust but it's a refreshing way to do business. :hatsoff:
 
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