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.56 renegade shot load

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Looking for a good shot load for.56 renegade.Hunt mostly rabbit squirrel,quail and pheasant.Just trying out the gun to see if I like it so i really dont have a clue as to what load i should use.
 
Ernie said:
What do you set your powder measure at to get 1 ounce of shot?

70gr. There is a chart at the top of the forum in the reference section that converts grain settings to shot ounces.[url] http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/195339[/url]/
 
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I started with the standard 28 gauge load of 2 drams of powder and 3/4 oz of shot. A measure set a 55 grains volume throws both of those. I'm not quite satisfied with the pattern, it is shaped kinda like a comma. I'm going to work at refining it with a paper shot pack, before I try something with more shot/powder. :winking:
 
Ernie said:
Looking for a good shot load for.56 renegade.Hunt mostly rabbit squirrel,quail and pheasant.Just trying out the gun to see if I like it so i really dont have a clue as to what load i should use.
A typical approach is that we set up smoothbore muzzleloaders the same way a modern shotgun is set up and most of the time it's really apples and oranges...smoothbore muzzleloaders are not constrained or limited to typical modern shotgun loads.

In my .54cal(.28ga) GM Flint smoothbore (15/16" barrel) I use:

70grns Goex 3F
Oxyoke prelubed wonderwad
1+1/8oz #6's
Circle Fly over shot card

Outstanding, even pattern at the 25yds I've tested it...going to try it on some small game myself after deer season is over.
 
Ernie said:
Is there any choke in your .54 smoothbore?
No choke...15/16" barrel from Green Mountain, drop-in for a TC Hawken stock, 33" long, cylinder bore...outstanding barrel...shootes patrched balls like a rilfe...took a couple bucks with it last year...want to get some squirrels with it this year
 
Slamfire: while everyone starts with even volume amounts of both powder and shot, there is no reason to not increase the amount of shot to see if you don't get a better pattern. I like to see the powder/shot combination stay below the speed of sound at the muzzle, so you don't have that disruption going on within a few yards. All that does is blow open the patterns. Using more shot than powder will often back the velocity down to under 1100 fps. and give you better patterns for that reason.

Unlike Roundball, I like the performance of overpowder card wads, 1/8 thick which you can order from TOTW, among others. I don't think those felt wads are stiff enough to seal the bore from gasses. YOu will need to get a wad that is at least your bore diameter or wider, to get good performance. I have a 20 ga. fowler, but the bore is oversized, and I found I had to order 19 ga. wads to get the gun to shoot right.

A one ounce load in a 28 ga. shotgun would be considered a stout load in a cartridge gun. You can obviously add more shot with shooting a muzzle loader. Don't hesitate to raise the weight of the shot charge until you find one that shoots well in your gun. But keep the powder charge at 70 grains and under. Your 70 grain volume measure throws one ounce of shot. 60 grains throws 7/8 oz, and, as you already know, 50 grains throws 3/4 oz. of shot. 55 grains is a 2 dram load( 27.5 grains to a dram) 70 grains is a 2 1/2 dram load. That is also the amount of black powder loaded in a .50-70 casing, which took more buffalo than probably any other cartridge used by hunters in the 19th century. Buffalo Bill Cody used a .50-70 to win a contest and secure his right to use that name, by killing more buffalo in a given period than his competitor. So, 70 grains in a 55 or 56 caliber gun is nothing to sneeze at. He was shooting a 550 grain bullet. Your one ounce load weighs 437.5 grains, and 1 1/8 oz. of shot weighs 492 grains! An ounce and a quarter of shot will weight 446.grains, just about as heavy as that bullet Cody used to kill buffalo stone dead at hundreds of yards. His gun weighs a lot more than yours does, so keep that in mind before trying that much powder and shot in your gun. It won't harm the gun, but it will say " Hello ' to your should big time!

If you insist on shooting it, you might benefit from reading an article I wrote,
[url] www.chuckhawks.com/controlling_heavy_recoil.htm[/url]

It will teach you how to hold your gun and stand to absorb the heavy recoil of these kinds of loads.

paul
 
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Paul,
My only objection to heavy shotgun loads comes when patterning 12 gauge turkey loads. I do that from the sit, but those over 1 5/8" are something I don't take pleasure in. Offhand, I don't much mind any of them. :rotf:
I'm just playing with the 28 gauge load to see if I can get decent patterns. I'm making some copies of Alcan's plastic shot protector out of heavy craft paper, and cut 9/16" wads from heavy card stock, with a hole punch. They seem to fit just fine. :winking:
I have tried a 7/8 oz shot load, but until I have the paper wrapper down pat, will stick with the 3/4 oz load. :v
Thanks for the advise though. :thumbsup:
 
Ernie said:
If you dont mind me asking what is your roundball load?
For where I hunt, shots are 25-60yds or not at all and I used:
70grns Goex 3F
.018" TC prelubed pillow ticking
Hornady .520 (five twenty)

80 & 90grns were also very accurate to the 50yds tested.

Couldn't use an Oxyoke over powder wad like I normally use with rifles...for some strange reason, I'd always get a weird flyer outside the group when I'd use overpowder wads...stopped using them and the groups tightend and stayed consistent.
 
Slamfire: If you are going to use paper shotcups, the improvement in the patterns is going tocome from protecting the shot pellets on the outside of the column from rubbing against the inside of the barrel and developing flats. I found I had to use two turns of 3M Post-It note paper to create enough of a side wall cushion to have an effect. I put a cushoin wad in the bottom of the cup, and close the ends of the tube's sides over as you would a wrapper on a roll of coins. Then I dip that closed end in hot was, put it on wax paper and push it down to make a flat squared bottom to the cup. Cut slits in the side of the cup so that those " wings " will open and act as an airbrake, to separate the cup from the shot ASAP after leaving the barrel. Otherwise, it will follow the shot to the target and will put a hole in the pattern, just like you get if you use to heavy a cushion wad without the shotcup. Measure the shot you are going to use into a cup, and cut the length of the cup to the length of the column of shot. Then use an overshot wafer or card to close the shot in your barrel. I put a hole in the middle of the wafer with an awl to let out air, so the sides are not turned up by trapped air in the loading process. You might also try cutting a slit from the edge to the center of the wafer, to see if that might work, as well. Since this is a single barrel shotgun, you don't have to worry about a load moving forward during the recoil from the adjoining barrel in a double barrel shotgun. You can always use two such wafers, turned in opposite directions. The slits insure that the wafers fall away from the shot quickly.
 
Slamfire said:
I'm making some copies of Alcan's plastic shot protector out of heavy craft paper, and cut 9/16" wads from heavy card stock, with a hole punch. They seem to fit just fine. :winking:
I have tried a 7/8 oz shot load, but until I have the paper wrapper down pat, will stick with the 3/4 oz load.

Have you had a chance to try the paper/card Alcan protectors yet?

I found an interesting variation on them while working on steel-shot loads (haven't finished development yet). If you make the petals ~1/4" wider than half-bore-circumference, the overlap you get when you load them makes them much less likely to to allow a gap if they slip a bit out of alignment. This also makes them less fussy to load through a choke (one of my buddies has a choked 12ga double), and possibly suitable for use inside paper cartridges..

I also found a very interesting free material - the smooth-on-one-or-both-sides card stock of old telephone book covers. You find similar material in other paperback book covers, some flyers/junk mail, and color/photo laser printer/copier card stock (but NOT inkjet photo stock). They range from 6-10 mil thickness and the clay finish (not the plastic finish of inkjet stock) makes them really slick. This is thin enough to be reasonably easy to work, but gives surprisingly good protection for the thickness, and I think the slickness is critical to this. In my limited testing so far with some 8-mil phone-book covers, one thickness was sufficient to prevent scrub-through with a 1oz/3.5dr load of Fe#5 in my 16ga, unchoked but with rough bores. I was getting scrub-through with much thicker multiple-thicknesses of uncoated card stock. I still need to test more to verify that one thickenss is enough for my fowler with 1.1/4oz-3.3/4dr Fe#3 loads, and I suspect one might need 2 thicknesses (2 protectors nested, probably at right angles) when shooting steel through a choke, or even 3 when going through the forcing cone of a suppository gun.

Joel
 
I agree with paulvallandigham that something other than a cusion wad may be needed to effect some kind of a gas seal. For years I have used an overshot wad under the lubed cushion wad for this, and then another overshot wad over the shot. This seems to work well, and eliminating the thicker overpowder wad means that's just one less type of wad I have to have in my bag. With shotguns you have to carry so much stuff the way it is, and this just simplifies things some and still gets the job done.
 
I'd like to second roundballs shot-load data. It works well with 7 1/2s also.
Taylor in Texas
 
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