*%#@%%#@*** !!!

OK
hard to really tell from this end but it looks to me like you are tearing the patches not burning them. Normally its fairly easy to tell if you rifling has a sharp spot as you will see the tear start from one of the lines radiating from the center ,, I don

 

[musketman]

Not familiar with oil patches and bore butter together. Most use one or the other
Had the oil patches, didn't /don't like em so I added some bore butter so as they might go down easier,, they did,, Don't like oil patches,,,

Maybe you should use Bore Margarine instead... :winking: :haha:

 

[hobbles]

The .015 patches are harder to ram in, the .010 go in easy but the pattern wasn't all that great, When I clean the barrel, the fist shot wanders a lil, the next two will touch at 50 yds (some time's)

those are the >best< of the **some times** ONES, i CAN DO THAT TILL THE PATCHES START SMOKIN,, AND THAT AIN'T LONG,, (caps) and those are the .010 patches, I can't keep em together long enough to get the sights set the way I want em,, The new oil .015 are just bad (for me) so I will try with the wonder wads to get an idea and go from there ,, I think I'll hold off on the steel wool for a bit,, maybe,,,

 

[hobbles]

Maybe you should use Bore Margarine instead..

Hmmmm.. I'll try the wonder wads first,,
this could get interestin,,,,

 

[canyonman]

Shootin conicals in a Black Diamond, Wonder Wads shrunk my groups from 3-4 in. @ 75 yrds. to 3/4 to 1 in. @ 75 yrds, thats why I use them. :m2c:

Larry

 

[hobbles]

canyonman
How many shots do you get before you have to clean your barrel ??????

 

[BLAHMAN]

Not familiar with oil patches and bore butter together. Most use one or the other
Had the oil patches, didn't /don't like em so I added some bore butter so as they might go down easier,, they did,, Don't like oil patches,,,

Maybe you should use Bore Margarine instead... :winking: :haha:

Tsk, tsk, tsk, that is shameless and blatent advertising of your product, MM brand Bore Margerine, cholostoral free of coarse, taste great and a proven cavity fighter all in one tube (Oh yeah, you can use it to lube patches).


I'll take two! :haha: :haha:

 

[Richard Allen]

I suspect part of your problem is the "oiled patches". Although they are new to you they may have been manufactured years ago. Over a period of time some oils have been reported to cause the fibers in the patch material to breakdown.

Another thing to consider is that when the ball and patch are loaded into the barrel the patch is compressed between the ball and the barrel lands and grooves. I use Dutch Schoultz's method of measuring patches to determine approximately how thick the patch is when it is compressed. Using that method, most commercially prepared patches measure less than half the thickness listed on the package. I have also found that the thickness listed on the package is not accurate nor consistant from batch to batch.

Being able to maintain consistancy is necessary in order to develop a good efficient load and eliminate problems.

Do yourself a favor and develop a way to consistently measure compressed patch materials. Then go to your favorite fabric shop and buy small amounts of cotton material of several thicknesses between .010 and .020. You can buy less than a yard of each, if I don't intend to work loads for more than one rifle I usually start with strips one foot wide. Wash and dry the material as recommended in previous posts and measure it again and write the thickness on one end of the strip with a permanent marker.

I have found 60 grains of whatever powder I intend to use as a good starting point. Use those fabric samples and whatever lube you decide to start with (Stumpy's Moose Snot looks promising) to develop your loads. From this point until the ball and patch get too hard to load the only thing that will be changed is the patch thickness. Start with the thinnest material and work up to the the thickest. Shoot three shots, collect the patches and inspect them. Go to the next thicker patch material, shoot three more shots, collect and inspect the patches, etc. At some point you should begin to recover patches without holes or the ball/patch combination will become too hard to load comfortably. By the way, I always swab the bore with a damp spit patch between shots when developing loads in order to ensure the bore is in the same condition for each load.

Usually the tightest ball/patch combination that you can comfortably load will produce the best accuracy. You will have to experiment with different amounts and possibly types of powder to find the the best load for your rifle with that ball/patch combination.

This method has served me well for many years and I am confident it will work for you.

Richard/Ga.

 

[hobbles]

Richard/Ga.
Thanks for the info, I have to wait for the new patches to get here then I can start to figure things out, I know that the .015 oil patches goes in hard but they go in easier with the bore butter on em, I'm not sure if the .018 will even go in yet but I will find out soon, then I can sea what size I will need , I am wonderin if different brands of powder make that much of a differce or if it's like ford and Chevys,Personal choise,, Just what you are use to workin on,, Guess that will be my next try,,

 

[riarcher]

Just a possible idea (I've done it before with success);
Blend 1 part borebutter to 1 part parafin (or bees wax preferably) and heat it hot in the microwave.
Take some shredded newspaper and while keeping the butter/wax hot stir in the newspaper until the paper falls to pulp. Add enough paper to make it as consistant as pie dough. Using a 1/2" I.D. bushing fill the inside to about 3/8 " hiegth, pressing the concoction down firmly with a sanded dowel for the 3/8". Push it the rest of the way out and let cool.
When cool it should be pretty firm and when used as a wad it'll let the ball set in and exctrude all the air space around it and makes for a good (cheap) fire wall and really keeps fouliing soft.
Just start it in with your thumb and drive home with your patched ball. With pillow ticking you don't even need to lube your patch after the first shot. There'll be plenty left from the previouse shot.
Worth a try while you're waiting on the mail, and cheaper than dirt too.
Just an idea that works/ed for me. Not original though, I stole it from anouther. :thumbsup:

 

[Slamfire]

Maybe you should use Bore Margarine instead... :winking: :haha:

Honestly MM I don't see how you can promote the use of partially hydrogenated vegetable oils after research proves trans fats are bad for yore heart. :nono:

 

[Gordon Horn]

I don't know as I'd trust that 'bore margerine' idea. Try everythin' ya know to get it to shoot center. If'n it won't, sell it. It happens every once't in a while thet a gun is just a lemon. If'n it ain't accurate, it ain't interestin'. :m2c:

Flatlandr

 

[hobbles]

although it's something to think bout I feel (at this time) I am just havin trouble with the patches, I think it's more me then the weapon, I have gotten a lot of info on things to try first, If I was doin all this by myself I think I would of quit long ago, but I have recived a lot of help from this board, sides, I got WONDER WADS a commin,, I think it was "hinted" that I should try em ,,,

Then there is bore margerine,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[BLAHMAN]

I doubt it. it's the weapon cuttin' the patches, not you.

 

[hobbles]

""I doubt it. it's the weapon cuttin' the patches, not you. ""

Yep, but it's not cuttin em all the time, and SOMETIMES it shoots stright, just not for long,, as you sea some are cut but not all,, (these are not in order)I find some still smokin on the ground,, That's where I get lost, if I was sure it was the barrel I would use the steel wool step I was told bout,, My lady makes fun of me cause everythin I got to do tomorrow, I did yesterday,, but on this I got to take my time, things stay done with this,,

 

[hobbles]

I think I'm in denial,, huh ?

 

[musketman]

Have you tried polishing the bore with a lapping compound to remove some of the sharp edges from the rifling?

 

[Rebel]

It appears as if the ball is trying to push through the patch at loading. Seems you either have a sharp edge on the crown, or you have some patches that are weak from being lubed too long, and the fibers have broken down. Try some NEW pillow ticking and fresh lube and see if that helps. They don't appear to be Burning, so the Wonder Wads are probably not going to solve the problem. :m2c:

 

OK, here we go!!!

The more I look at these patches the more I think this is a loading problem.

The patches are obviously cut/stress torn, not burned.

I would bet that if you remove your hearing protection while you load you could hear the threads rip!

The solution will be a patch so thin that accuracy will suffer.

I think that there is a simple solution to this problem!

This barrel needs to be CONED!

:imo:

 

[hobbles]

Afternoon gentelman
those last patches are the one's I found that are not burnt, They were not in firin order,, I was tryin to find patches that might look like they were bein cut while loadin,, page one has the patches in firin order and they get to burnin after 3 or 4 shots, that how we got on the wonder wads, I just got them and they say wonder patches .015 and wonder ticking .018,, same thing RIGHT?????