OK. I figured as much. Just wishful thinking. 
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Accidently Bought a Rifle
- Thread starter rowdyjoe
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
My new lock arrived this afternoon and will require a bit of fitting. I'll have to recess the forward bolt hole in the stock about 1/4" (diameter and depth)to allow the shoulder surrounding the forward bolt hole in the lock plate to fit thereby allowing the lock plate to fit flush. The old lock did not have the shoulder. That should be all I need to do. The lock plate looks like it will fit snug in the stock.
Other than the bolt hole, I noticed another difference between the old lock and the new one. The fly in the old lock is located behind the tumbler and is much thicker material than the new one. The new one is located on in front/on top of the tumbler and is much thinner material. Everything looks and works well. I'm guessing that's another difference between the new and old style locks (?).
More later.
Picture: Old on top ...
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AlRP8fVClrIXed0TkLHwoi-_wVY
Other than the bolt hole, I noticed another difference between the old lock and the new one. The fly in the old lock is located behind the tumbler and is much thicker material than the new one. The new one is located on in front/on top of the tumbler and is much thinner material. Everything looks and works well. I'm guessing that's another difference between the new and old style locks (?).
More later.
Picture: Old on top ...
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AlRP8fVClrIXed0TkLHwoi-_wVY
OK, new lock is fitted and installed and working. After I enlarged the bolt hole I found that the bolt was now approx. .100" too short. The hole does not go all the way through the side plate so, I cut off about that much and it now fits fine
.
The "old" trigger assy (with experimental broken main spring repair) is also installed and working but, I don't like the way it works. However, I'm waiting for Deer Creek to send a replacement trigger assy for a defective one I sent back. I should be able to put he finishing touches on it when it arrives.
.
The "old" trigger assy (with experimental broken main spring repair) is also installed and working but, I don't like the way it works. However, I'm waiting for Deer Creek to send a replacement trigger assy for a defective one I sent back. I should be able to put he finishing touches on it when it arrives.
Yes, the new on is engraved and looks case hardened. They did a nice job on it.
Then Stop!rowdyjoe said:
You've already messed up enough stuff with your experimenting.
There is a learning curve with these ML's,, so let's just step back a bit and learn.
It's not rocket science,, but there's no need to re-invent things ether
rowdyjoe said:
Oooops. Typo ....it was too long and I had to shorten it about .100".
OK John. :surrender:
I'm stopped while waiting on the new trigger assy. :grin:
I'm stopped while waiting on the new trigger assy. :grin:
You give in too easy.
I'm determined to get it working right. So far, I'm still well under the cost of a NIB ML rifle and I've learned a lot about how they function.
I'm determined to get it working right. So far, I'm still well under the cost of a NIB ML rifle and I've learned a lot about how they function.
They are pretty simple, but just getting the hammer to fall when you want it to is only part of the picture. I've got my "accidental" rifle grouping about 2" at 50 yds, but it took a lot of fooling around. 80 gr. of 3F, and a .013 patch...slow twist, shallow rifling...bump it up 10gr. for minie' balls. Just launched into a new project..restocking my 1997 stainless deerhunter 
Roger on all of that.
I've got all of that to look forward to. Being retire, I have plenty of time to fool around with getting it to group. It's all fun but, I'd rather be shooting than repairing.
I've got all of that to look forward to. Being retire, I have plenty of time to fool around with getting it to group. It's all fun but, I'd rather be shooting than repairing.
The trigger assembly arrived today. Thank you Deer Creek for the Excellent service.
I installed the trigger assembly and after a bit of adjustment, it's working like a champ. I now have an operational rifle and I'm all set to make smoke this coming Sat. :grin: :grin:
Range report to follow.
I installed the trigger assembly and after a bit of adjustment, it's working like a champ. I now have an operational rifle and I'm all set to make smoke this coming Sat. :grin: :grin:
Range report to follow.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2015
- Messages
- 1,703
- Reaction score
- 82
It's better to learn all you can on a cheap CVA than start fiddling with a $1500+ custom rifle.
Some folks don't like to touch a gun except to put powder and lead in it; some folks like to tear it to pieces to understand it. The world needs those who tinker with stuff, just be sure to learn as much as you can from the mistakes of others so you don't put yourself at risk. That is one thing this website is good for.
Some folks don't like to touch a gun except to put powder and lead in it; some folks like to tear it to pieces to understand it. The world needs those who tinker with stuff, just be sure to learn as much as you can from the mistakes of others so you don't put yourself at risk. That is one thing this website is good for.
Keep in mind, that all those screws you turned to change and or clean that rifle only need inch pounds of torque, the lock bolts, the tang bolt and the trigger mounting screw only need to be snug.
Everyone usually knows what "spark plug tight" is,, 15ftpds.
If you go over "spark plug tight" with any of the mounting screws,, it's too tight.
Everyone usually knows what "spark plug tight" is,, 15ftpds.
If you go over "spark plug tight" with any of the mounting screws,, it's too tight.
Oh, alright. I'll put the 18" breaker bar away.
Actually, I think the shallow slots in the screw/bolt heads are designed to discourage over-tightening but, if it can be done someone will find a way.
Actually, I think the shallow slots in the screw/bolt heads are designed to discourage over-tightening but, if it can be done someone will find a way.
I have a bit of an advantage when it comes to firearms. I "did that" in the USAF for 21 yrs. However, this is my first experience with a Muzzle Loader. Comparatively, (to me) they are so simple they seem a bit confusing at first.
This is a great experience for me as I have fired so many so-called "modern" firearms that it doesn't present much of challenge anymore. Muzzle Loading rifles and cap & ball pistols are a new challenge I can't wait to get deeper in to. Wish it had "discovered" me sooner.
However, this is my first experience with a Muzzle Loader. Comparatively, (to me) they are so simple they seem a bit confusing at first. This is a great experience for me as I have fired so many so-called "modern" firearms that it doesn't present much of challenge anymore. Muzzle Loading rifles and cap & ball pistols are a new challenge I can't wait to get deeper in to. Wish it had "discovered" me sooner.
Mr. Troll said:
Ditto on the computers. The hardware is easy but, software development baffles me. I've been confused ever since we left "DOS".
To me, software is like gasoline for my car. I don't need to know how they make it to use it.
Took it to the range yesterday (Wed.) and fired about 20 rds. at 50yds. Everything worked like it was supposed to. The previous problem with no. 11 caps is gone.
Accuracy is nothing to brag about right now but, I have not yet begun to tinker with the load, patches, lube, etc.
This rifle is a blast to shoot.
Accuracy is nothing to brag about right now but, I have not yet begun to tinker with the load, patches, lube, etc.
This rifle is a blast to shoot.
