I have a range reserved on Sunday to pattern my new pedersoli "13 gauge". I've never patterned a ML shotgun before. I've seen some youtube videos of how to do it but I'm still kind of unsure the exact process. What are your guys procedures when patterning a new gun? How much do u increase/decrease your shot and pattern with each shot. How far should I stand?(it's 100yrd range lol) any suggestions for quick replacement of targets?
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Advice needed for patterning.
- Thread starter Acohill1
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
I do three things. First, put a target exactly 16-yards out and head-high. Focus on the spot with gun at high-ready. Move, mount, shoot. This is "patterning" to determine gun-fit. Figure out the center of your pattern and you know if you need to make adjustments for the gun to shoot where you look. Next - for a "traditional" choke pattern, put a 30-in or larger target at 40-yards. Shoot one shot and count the holes in the 30-inch circle. Divide by the total # of pellets to get a percentage. Convert the percentage into a choke designation. Lastly, figure out what you're going to shoot and how far. For me, I shoot mostly woodcock/quail/dove sized birds at around 25-yards and grouse/pheasant sized birds at 35-yards. I'll shoot patterns at those distances and use a cardboard cut-out of an open-winged bird silhouette representing the kind of bird I mostly shoot at that range. If the bird would receive several hits anywhere within the pattern its good. If the pattern has substantial holes in it that the bird could get through, or just get a couple of pellet hits, I work to tighten the pattern.
These forums are chocked full of advice on this. A couple of recurring themes you'll notice are too much powder scatters shot and too much wadding blows holes in patterns. Both are true come to find out. I've had the best patterns so far in my smooth rifles with 2F powder and minimal wadding.
I was planning on starting with like 75gr pwder/OS card/thin leather wad/1 1/8 Oz #7 1/2/OS card. Then I was gonna try a sky chief after to see what that does. The gun says 95 gr and 1 1/4 but that seems like alot from what you guys say
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2019
- Messages
- 209
- Reaction score
- 238
I'd go with a smaller dipper of powder than shot. Maybe scoop 10 grains less of powder (+ or -). Generally this improves patterns, makes recoil more bearable, and allows you to shoot longer and enjoy doing it.
You may appreciate this video our friend.
Those charges stamped on the shotgun are the maximum charges established by the manufacturer. By no means should those charges be considered the best charge for hunting or target shooting. Load development will confirm the best charge which will be less than the maximum charge. Yes, those charges stamped on your shotgun are a lot.
I use the same scoop, but with the powder it is flat and slightly below the rim and with shot it is a slightly rounded overflow compared to the rim. It is a slight difference, but it seems to be a good ratio.
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2021
- Messages
- 10,022
- Reaction score
- 3,970
Same here. My scoop is a modern shotgun shell carefully cut to carry the prescribed amount. For my 12 gauge, that is 75 grains 1 1/4 oz. shot.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
I have litterally spent weeks getting a shotgun to pattern properly. The problem is usually the cushion wad. I find that when there is a problem that a wool cusion wad will solve the problem. I'd find some land somewhere other than a shooting range. You'll have to change your pattern paper about every five minutes.
Jug choked guns are the easiest to get to shoot well. The ones I have patterned usually shoot the first thing I try.
Jug choked guns are the easiest to get to shoot well. The ones I have patterned usually shoot the first thing I try.
Why use a shot pattern plate ,if you are a game shot who shoots flying the pattern on a plate is no good for a flying shot because the shot is in a . strung position which can be 2 to 3 yards in length with a barrel swing
Feltwad .
Feltwad .
@Comfortably_Numb - Who's jugging choking barrels now?
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Beats me. I ordered a pair of 8 bores from Rice and he jugged them for me.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
That's why square loads are desired. Shot flies in a ball instead of long string. I had a 28 bore that patterned exceptionally tight and was good for squirrels but stunk at wing shooting because of the string you mentioned.
Most folks here in the states are shooting turkeys and squirrels and only a few shoot flying....with muzzleloaders that is.
Turkeys are for wieners according to one brit now on iggy
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
I used to raise turkeys . Non of the Tom's had wieners I could see.
Thats almost fowl
On patterning....I suggest trying 1F 2F and 3F. Brit uses 4F. My 20 LOVES 1F. Also just a small difference in loading can matter, such as 2 over powder card instead of one. One over powder card and felt, one over powder card and another thinner or thicker card. This one first, thick one first. Card first felt first. Each guns different and some really weird little things can often turn it into a super pattern. Keep us posted.
Similar threads
