Ive used Dixons book when I need insigjt on a particular area of tje build process and its been very helpful. Where is the misinformation you speak of?
Since you asked for specifics, here goes.
P. 29 says to inlet the barrel, then find the place for your trigger, then the lock. The correct way to do it is the lock placement is determined by the placement of the touch hole. The trigger placement is determined by the location of the sear bar in the lock.
P.33 advocates a 3/16"-1/4" web thickness. That's a little on the fat side, but not all that big of a deal. 1/8"-5/32" would produce a slimmer gun, but that's a matter of taste.
P.67 gives instruction on the tang bolt, but doesn't stress the importance of fore-aft location by drawing your line at a perpendicular tangent to the intended intersect point on the trigger plate
P. 69-72 ignores the installation / use of a pre-made left side lock plate for locating lock bolts but 96-98 has you making one later, which might or might not work for the locations chosen earlier
P. 130 advocates using a metal hammer to put wire inlay in to the stock. That's a good way to bend it. a softer driving instrument is better, like a short wooden dowel, plastic or rubber hammer etc. It advocates sanding to level things, which is a good way to have it wind up proud to the wood because wood is softer than metal. Cutting it off and scraping keeps everything at the same plane
P. 135 advocates a countersink in the outside of a barrel liner. Very few people do that.
Apart from the items I pointed out above, it's really the lack of clarity and detail that is the bigger issue. That's why I think the other 2 books are better, and the fact that they explain things a little better in the "how to's" --more pictures too.
