Affordable Bag Mould / Mold ?

[LFC]

In the old days, I gather that hunters would often carry a smallish "bag mold" for casting balls while out on the hunt.

Nowadays, most of the molds available--Lee, Lyman, etc.--use a mold block, plus a set of handles (attached in the case of the Lee molds; attachable in the case of the Lyman, etc.) Upside: these work well, have the handy sprue-cutter plate, and are relatively inexpensive. Downside: they are very bulky--not even fitting into many possibles bags, and taking up most of the space in those into which they fit.

One can go via Rapine and buy a bag mold that'll fit inside a possibles bag--but these are expensive, running something like $70 plus shipping now.

It occurs to me that the ever-frugal-and-pragmatic forum members here might have come up with (or might be able to come up with) a better solution to this problem than shelling out $70 for a Rapine mold (I'll be trying to get one eventually, but figure it'll be a while before I have that much discretionary cash--and if I'm going to try to build up equipment for each of my boys, we're talking about multiplying costs severalfold). Any clever ideas for setting up a Lee or Lyman mold into a more compact configuration, or buying a cheaper-than-$70-but-still-good small mould? (I'm using both spellings for "mold / mould" so that if anyone searches with either spelling, they can catch this post.)

 

[paulvallandigham]

YOu can remove the cut off plates, to reduce size. You can also take the handles off, and put them in a blanketroll for carrying. That would leave you with a very light weight aluminum alloy mold from Lee, or a heavier one from Lyman.

You can get a Tanner mold. You probably will want to whittle handles from sticks to put on these so you don't burn your hands as they heat up, but again, this was often done on site.

And, Dixie may still sell their scissor molds. You will want to have some wire cutters to cut the sprues on these Bag molds, but again, these can be purchased at hardward stores and home supply stores, or hobby store relatively cheaply. Carry them with the handles in the bed roll. For using less space, carry the cut-off plate to a Lee or lyman mold in your haversack, and simply screw it back on the mold when you go to use it. You eliminate the need for the cutters as a separate tool. Depending on how you organize your tools to work on your gun, you may have an adequate screwdriver to use with the mold cut-off plate. It is the toting around the extra lead to melt to make bullets or balls that adds the significant weight. I would rather carry the needed balls on a trek, than to drag around a mold. But each to his own.

 

[J.D.]

It occurs to me that the ever-frugal-and-pragmatic forum members here might have come up with (or might be able to come up with) a better solution to this problem than shelling out $70 for a Rapine mold

There is a much less expensive way to go. Cast your balls at home. IMHO, the most efficient way to carry lead is in the form of round ball.

J.D.

 

[Elnathan]

Comus,
I have one made by Smiling Fox Forge. It cost about $45 +s/h, which is as inexpensive as you will get, but it still has tool marks in the cavity and the two blocks don't close flat - you can see light between 'em. It is good for a display piece and the one time I tried it (only got half a bullet - lead and ladle issues) it seemed that it would cast a ball suitable for plinking, but for serious shooting I would go elsewhere.

For my next rifle I'll get a Rapine, especially if it is only $70. The Smiling Fox Forge one is more than half the cost of a Rapine, and might not really be an economical stand-in if you intend to replace it later on.

 

[Ridge]

The Smiling Fox Forge one is more than half the cost of a Rapine, and might not really be an economical stand-in if you intend to replace it later on.

That's my thoughts on it exactly. How much money will you spend trying to cast roundballs and buying some other set up? You'll probably find yourself within 20 bucks of what you really want.

I like the Rapine molds. I own 3 and have 2 more ordered.

 

[LFC]

Thanks for the warning about Smiling Fox!

 

[Old Charlie]

I have a bag mold from smiling Fox Forge. The first time I used it , I was not happy with it. I didn't like the looks of the ball and the sprue cutter leaves a little to be desired.
I then shot said balls and my rifle shot them very well. I am now very satisfied with the it.
It is steel and takes longer to heat up to throw good balls.
Old Charlie

 

[tg]

What size ball are you lokoing to cast?

 

[LFC]

.490

 

[Timothy Gregory]

I got a "Smiling Fox Forge" bag mould last year. From the sounds of it, I got lucky. Fit and finish are good and it throws good balls. The add warned about tool marks and there are a few small ones in the balls. All in all though, I am very happy with the mould as a trekking accessory. I was at an arrowhead show sometime later and observed a .41 call bag type mould that had been dug up somewhere with a few other relics. Looked identical to the mould I got from "Smiling Fox Forge." Works very well for what intended, casting a few balls in a "field" environment. I agree with an earlier post though, the best way to cast good consistant balls is to cast them at home. Just my humble $.02 worth.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

I contend that most ball casting did not occur over the campfire but at the home or cabin. Molds found in bag contents were placed together while in a cabin and not in a lean-to. Cast balls weight the same as a bar of lead. Casting lead that had been retrieved from a prior shot into new balls might have been done while on a real "long hunt" though.

Rapine molds are the best in my opinion and worth the price difference in the quality.

 

[Wes/Tex]

Track has a series of nice bag molds in .509", .570", .600", .680" and .710" if any of these sizes are usable since you didn't specify a bore size. Dixie sells a brass one but doesn't come in sizes above about 45. Hope this helps.

 

[LFC]

I'm looking for .490 (roundball).

 

[Many Klatch]

I experimented with making my own lightweight mold for carrying in a bag with my .60 smoothbore. I used a small block of Catlinite but soapstone would work as well. I cut the stone in half with a hacksaw, wallowed the hole out in the middle of both blocks with a Dremel tool until it got about the right size. You will need to drill two holes through the block for dowel rods to act as reference points. Regular drill bits will work fine, they just won't be real sharp when you get done.

The experiment worked. I was able to cast a fairly round ball that fit down the barrel and the mold couldn't have weighed more than a couple of ounces. The final size of the mold was a cube of about 1-1/2 square. Would I want to shoot these balls every day? No. But for those woodswalks where you have to carry everything including the kitchen sink, then this was a valuable addition.

I didn't use a handle. Just set the mold on the ground, pour the lead in let it cool and then pull out the ball. To keep the mold closed I used linen thread wrapped around the mold a few times.

Many Klatch

 

[clinker]

Dixie Gun Works still makes their "Scissors" molds. Probably the least expensive molds on the market. One GREAT benefit: They will make them ANY size you want. So if you like a loose fitting ball for your .54 you can get a .526 mold. Cut off the "loop" part of the handle and it looks like an "old timey" mold. You do have to cut the sprue with your knife. Just place the stub upward when you load and it will shoot fine.

 

[Timothy Gregory]

I contend that most ball casting did not occur over the campfire but at the home or cabin. Molds found in bag contents were placed together while in a cabin and not in a lean-to. Cast balls weight the same as a bar of lead. Casting lead that had been retrieved from a prior shot into new balls might have been done while on a real "long hunt" though.

Rapine molds are the best in my opinion and worth the price difference in the quality.

I totaly agree with this statement but would like to offer another scenario. I have no research to back this up and it is just my own humble opinion. Would individuals have carried a mould or a smaller "bag" mould while on militia duty? Seems to me that a group of militia would have a wide variety of bore sizes (if they were providing their own weapon). I think in this case that the state or federal Government would have supplied powder and lead in the form of ingots. It would then have been up to the individual militiaman to cast his own balls in the appropriate diameter for his weapon.
:hmm: Just a few thoughts for cogitation.

 

[mmahlock]

As a side note, most British Army issued rifles prior to 1800 came with molds to ensure that the user would be able to make balls that fit his rifle.

 

[mazo kid]

Dare I say the word? Ebay is still allowing molds to be sold and often there are original scissor-type bag molds for just $10-12. Do a search for "bullet mold/mould" and you should come up with a bunch. Emery