Alternatives for Stock Stains

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For revealing sanding flaws I use this stuff.
https://woodrepairproducts.com/product/ultra-classic-toner/

It dries super fast and sands easy without guming up the sandpaper. I also use it as part of my post stain sealing/ pore filling step. You can build up a very dark finish with this material. If you don't like it, it wipes off with lacquer thinner or acetone. Many originals used varnish with color in it, Hawkin for instance. Same idea.
 
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I switched to Fiebings about have a dozen guns ago and you couldn't pay me enough to go back to Aqua Fortis. I haven't seen any fading problems as some keyboard experts claim either. But I will admit to really liking Minwax Antique Oil finish over the fiebings. Works great and looks great for me. I'd post some pics but I don't have a hosting site since Photobucket held our pics for ransom.
 
Shedhunter said:
I switched to Fiebings about have a dozen guns ago and you couldn't pay me enough to go back to Aqua Fortis. I haven't seen any fading problems as some keyboard experts claim either.
No matter how much you might desire it - Fiebings just doesn't give the same effect as Aquafortis on Maple. Aquafortis really isn't difficult to use....
 
Not you Dave. Just some I've read on other forums.

https://image.ibb.co/bP86i6/Chris_flinter_1.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/mwue36/13901369_1238751429493034_311932114027865069_n.jpg

https://image.ibb.co/bONowR/12885781_1134674093234102_6692010462481072464_o.jpg

Hope this pic thing works. Here's a few using fiebings. Pistol is the oldest, about 5 years.
 
Well I never had good results with AF, but I think it’s the bestwhen done right.... well I did till I saw those photos those are beautiful :thumbsup:
 
Hi Tenngun,
When you say you never had luck with AF, what happened? When I lived in Ketchikan in Southeast Alaska, because it is on an island, everything had to be barged or flown in. Before going to Alaska, I used to use dilute nitric acid (alone no iron) to give maple a blushing pink color undertone on which I added a top stain that was some brown color. It always worked very well but getting nitric acid in Ketchikan was really expensive and took a long time because of haz mat rules. I could get Wahkon Bay AF from TOW pretty easily I guess because the acid is very weak and haz mat rules did not apply. I tried it and hated it. I could not get anything but a very dark brown using it on maple even if I diluted it. I had no control of the color and never used it on a gun. So I began using leather and aniline dyes with success and stuck with that until I moved to Vermont. I also tried LMF stains with very mixed results. It was a disaster on a maple stock that was so hard in places it would not absorb dyes or stain. Back in Vermont, I had better access to stuff but I discovered ferric nitrate crystals. Ferric nitrate in water is nitric acid and iron (AF) but with the acid much weaker. By altering the concentration I can control color somewhat and because my water has iron in it, I can alter color by dissolving the powder in my tap water or in distilled water. In addition, ferric nitrate dissolves in alcohol so you can create a NGR stain if you choose. I also just discovered that painting a maple stock with strong tea and then ferric nitrate will highlight faint figure and alter color because it adds a little tannin to the wood. Anyway, with the availability of ferric nitrate powder, I don't know why anyone fools with commercial AF anymore. When folks mention they gave up on AF I would like to know why? I certainly had a bad experience with one commercial version but not with my own made with ferric nitrate powder.

dave
 
When folks mention they gave up on AF I would like to know why?

I never had a bad experience with it, it's simply the ease of use and the ability to duplicate the results time after time. Something I can't do with AF. Plus the time required. I can color my stock in 15 minutes or less with Fiebings and start putting the oil on.
 
Wakgon bay was all I ever tried. One on a plane maple stock I just got an ugly black stock. I sanded that down and redid. About two years later did it on a #3 stock, I think I got it from petotonic and again it was ugly. Sanded and replaced with LM. The last time I tried it was on a golden age arms Hawken pistol kit. Over the years and two moves I had lost the stock. I replaced it with a piece of fire wood a neighbor had cut from a yard tree maple that had been lightning struck. I made it as a full stock. The wood was about half striped, and all I got was black. In the sun held right you could see the stripe. Sanded it down and replaced it with lm. That was my last attempt.
You can tell a good af from a hundred yards away.
I had liked all of WB products so I have never thought that their AF would have a problem.
The first recipe I saw for af was in a Dixie gunworks catalouge, I got today I just assumed every one did the same and I just did it wrong.
 
I've used Fiebing's leather dye on a lot of small wood projects with great results. I haven't tried it on a rifle stock yet, but I'm tempted.

I like using Fiebing's on stocks. I started using it while working part time at a gun shop in the 1990's. The owner bought several dozen various military surplus rifles, and wanted the stocks redone, so he had us do it a certain way. He bought Enfields, Moisin Nagants, some Mausers (though not all German) and a few Garands. We'd take off all the hardware, and strip off the old oil and any finish, down to the wood. It was amazing how the wood would bounce back after so many decades. We'd apply a damp wash rag and an iron to any dents to get the wood to lift the dents in the stocks out. Then we'd "de-whisker" the raised grain with 4-0 steel wool. This would be followed the Fiebing's in light or medium brown, and then an application of boiled linseed oil with 4-0 steel wool. The stocks would get a coat of BLO for five days in a row, then a coat per week for the next three weeks. The rifles were then reassembled and sold. Wow some of them had some pretty good wood. The owner had the metal parkerized. The stuff wasn't sold as "authentic" just pretty, vintage WWII, and useable.

I'd do the same pretty much for Bess stocks needing an overhaul, sometimes because whatever finish had been applied was flaking off, or somebody used an oil that darkened over time, etc. I've used it on rifle stock too for my flinters and caplocks, BUT..., I like very plain stocks on a lot of my gear (knives and hawks too), and that's also what you get on a Bess for wood. They look great when done but they don't have much figure..., so there's no harm nor disadvantage to using Fiebings on them. If I had a high grade curly maple stock I'd be looking at using Aqua Fortis.

In fact I just got a bottle of Laurel Mountain AQ last April for use on some very curly maple to be used as knife handles. (Winter Projects) :grin:

Minwax is good on pine boxes, and on pine stools, followed by some Bear or Thompson's Water Seal. Looks good but not authentic (any stool for somebody under the rank of Serjeant is not correct, but many of the lads are more long in the tooth than me and simply cannot sit long upon the ground)

LD
 
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