Another patch lube question

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Zonie
I certainly agree with you. I'm always running across Hoppes 9 in stores but wasn't sure if it was the correct 9. They should call it something else.

Btw great shooting mtnmanjim. Maybe cutting the Ballistol with a little more water will help me

As for the hunting advice on not needing a quick second shot. I agree to a point. But if you've ever hunted wild hogs in the FL swamps you know that even a well placed round ball doesn't always drop a hog in its tracks. You don't have time to stop and swab the barrel before they get away
But, that's another topic. I'm only asking for lube advice for now and I do thank everyone for the great info.

Armakiller you combo is close to mine. Maybe I'll give Mink oil a try
 
Zonie, you had me digging my bottle out of hiding!

So, the label says "harmful or fatal if swallowed, contains kerosene"

Knew I saw kerosene somewhere. But, that does not mean it does not contain water. I want to research this a bit more. Not that I disagree with you, but just have to see it with my own eyes. If there is water in it, it will go off my list of hunting lubes.

I grew up with that smell of Hoppes #9 too. It stays with you forever and always brings back memorys!

Took the cap off the 9+ BP stuff just now and took a whiff. It has a faint smell of the old time stuff, but not as strong. I'm sure that whatever is the source of the smell they put it in purely for marketing purposes.
 
Looked up the MSDS for hoppes 9 + and this is what I found:

1 Water 007732-18-5 231-791-2”” ””
2 Hydrotreated Heavy Naphthenic Distillate 064742-52-5 265-155-0 ”” 10 - 30
3 Triethanolamine 000102-71-6 203-049-8 ”” 1 - 5
4 Ethyl Alcohol 000064-17-5 200-578-6 F; 11 1 - 5
5 Kerosene 008008-20-6 232-366-4 Xn; 65 1 - 5
6 Triazine 004719-04-4 225-208-0 Xn; 22-43 0.5 - 1.5

So, I'm not at all familiar with these reports but it certainly does contain the water!

If these are arranged as food items are with the ingrediants descending in the % of make up, then it is primarily water. But, I have no idea how to read these listings.

Edit: This formatted so it is hard to understand, but the last two numbers are the percent of the product by weight. For water, it is just a "dash" with no number The other items are listed in a range of the percentage of the product by weight.

Here is the url for the msds sheet

hoppes 9 + msds
 
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If you are careful with your first shot and are using an appropriate caliber of rifle for the game that you are hunting, you shouldn't need a second shot. Being able to make a quick reload is a good thing but if you place your first shot in a good vital area and the animal doesn't go down, you might think about "fixing bayonetts and charging". :haha:
 
I've recently gone back to the T/C seasoning routine and am not wiping between shots. One 7 shot shooting session doesn't count for too much but I'm sticking with it this year anyway.
 
"T/C seasoning routine"?..........what is it/how does that work?
 
That's how I read it too. When you add up the other ingredients it leaves a lot of room for water.
 
My first year of ml hunting around '74 I sat in the bottom of a deep steep gully and shot three times up the gully side at a buck browsing on oakbrush. He calmly continued browsing until the third shot hit the limb he was eating off of. Only then did he high tail it.

The combination of the uphill shot and the fact that my prior rifle hunting exp was with a .264 mag is my only excuse for missing. You would have to interview the buck to find out why he allowed it.
 
"T/C seasoning routine"?..........what is it/how does that work?

:rotf:

IMO, the "T/C Seasoning routine" was a ploy, thought up by Thompson Center to sell their Bore Butter patch lube.

The idea was to coat the bore of the gun with Bore Butter so it could creep into the surface of the steel and "season" it like folks do with a cast iron frying pan.

One problem they overlooked was cast iron frying pans have a porous surface that oil can penetrate. Steel does not have a porous surface.

They also somehow forgot that when someone "seasons" a cast iron frying pan, they heat it up hot enough to make the oil turn to carbon, but they forgot to recommend that people should heat up their barrel to finish the process.

In any case, the "Season Your Barrel" did sell a LOT of their Bore Butter and people are still talking about how important it is to do it.

By the way, Bore Butter has been tested by many people to see if it is a good rust preventative.

It always turns out that if it is used by itself, it is rather poor at preventing rust in the bore.

It is a pretty good patch lube though. :)
 
"It always turns out that if it is used by itself, it is rather poor at preventing rust in the bore".

I've heard that a lot as well, but I found it to be the absolute opposite. I put my GPR in storage back in 2004 after giving it a good thorough cleaning then soaking a bore mop with bore butter and laying it on real thick. The rifle was not even so much as looked at in 10 whole yrs. I had it shipped to me about 3 mo's ago. I was really concerned that it would be a total loss. First thing I did was swab the bore with a clean bore mop and near boiling water with a tad of dawn dt and when I dropped a bore light down it I was totally amazed to see that the entire bore was as bright and shiny as a brand new nickel! I couldn't believe it, but there it was.
Others' mileage may vary.
 
Lungs/heart. Never have and never will take a head shot on big game. It's my favorite on small game though.

The point of my tale was not to drag my shooting through the mud, but to point out that the old "you only get one shot with an ml" maxim just ain't always so.

On another occasion I was able to reload after a "missed" shot on an elk. Elk fell dead just as my sights settled for the second shot :shocked2:

There was another I related in a thread in the hunting forum title "The Elk and The Set Trigger". Too painful to retell :haha:
 
Reason for asking is because you said the shot broke the limb he was nibbling on and I figured that maybe you were taking a head shot.

You're right about the one shot theory. The last one I shot was about thirty yards away broadside. I put the ball through both lungs and he never even flinched, didn't even look up, just kept right on eating like nothing happened. I thought I'd completely missed and started getting ready to reload. He kept right on eating till his lungs filled with blood then started coughing and laid down right where he stood when I shot him and died.
 
I managed to find that buck on Facebook. I asked him why he stood there for three shots and he said that he wanted to run but he was too busy laughing. :rotf: I've had a couple laugh at me, too. :haha: :hatsoff:
 
After hot water and drying I'm lightly coating the barrel with bore butter. The barrel is still a bit warm.
I'm using Dutch S. ballistol mix on the patch strip.
My favorite miss was thru the main beam of a prairie mule dear. He still didn't know where I was so I was able to close the deal.
 
Bore butter is a very good patch lube but it is not the best for rust protection because it has no rust inhibitors in it. Any rust protection it provides is the same as any other grease, it provides an occlusive coating that keeps out moisture and oxygen. It works as long as it stays in place, the seal is not broken and there are no corrosive chemicals (black powder fouling) left on the surface of the bore. It has no rust inhibitors in it so then it just holds any corrosive materials next to the surface of the bore where they do their dirty work. My recommendation for rust protection is Birchwood-Casey's Barricade. It has rust inhibitors in it and it also provides an occlusive covering on the surface of metal to keep out moisture and oxygen. In that way, it does the same as Bore Butter but it also has rust inhibitors in it to fight any corosive chemicals that are left in the bore before you put it away. There are other good rust inhibiting products on the market but I use Barricade. Our guns are expensive so I want to take the best care of them that I can. A material that provides both an occlusive coating and a rust inhibitor is just a "belt and suspenders" method of protecting my investment.
 
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