Another rookie takes the plunge....

[jamieorr]

I've recently received my Pennsylvania Fowler "kit" from Jim Chambers. I put the "kit" in quotes because although the parts are all from the kit, I didn't buy the pre-carved stock, but got a blank instead. I've already promised not to call the results a Chambers if/when I produce some kind of Frankengun. (This my first attempt at building any kind of gun.)

I can't start work on this for a while, but I just had to show off what I got. Someone else recently posted about what $950 will buy - this, with shipping, was about the same so I present it here as an alternative.

Everything in the box:

Round-face English flintlock:

All the smaller bits and pieces:

Finial on the trigger guard:

The brass:

The quality of the castings is very good, that should make it all possible. What I'm really looking forward to is getting into that big chuck of maple. I don't do much with metal, but have worked with wood (although this is pretty different from anything I've done so far).

I see I don't have a close up of any part of the barrel. It's a 20 gauge from Rice, 46" long, octagon to round, swamped, a thing of beauty!

For now I'm reading all I can and haunting the internet for information and tools - looks like some of these will be more easily made than bought.

Thanks for your patience with this long post. Once I get into this (in a few months) I'll try to post updates and you can tell me where I'm going wrong! (Not really joking, here.)

Jamie

PS Thanks to Claude for his help with posting the pictures.

 

[Micah Clark]

Very Interesting, I just ordered the Pennsylvania Fowler kit from Jim Chambers yesterday.

I am left handed though, so mine will come with a Siler Lock . . not quite so pretty or fowler looking as your Colonial VA or Round face lock.

I am interested in your progress.

This will be my second build, first with a Chambers. I am no pro . . in fact, I really goofed up a ramrod carving on my Lancaster from TVM last night, but that's a really sore subject at the moment. . . had a hard time sleeping last night over it . . My gun was going great, almost to staining with no major mistakes, and I got sloppy. . .arrrgh !

I am curious, why didn't you go with the pre-carve from Chambers over the blank? I can't imagine doing that, but many folks say they find it better and on some thing easier.

By the way, do we build our own trigger from parts? Looks like that's the case? Perhaps it only involves a pin . . .

Thanks for the pics !!!

 

[Ames]

op: I'm in the same pool. Love this thread. More latter.

 

[jamieorr]

Very Interesting, I just ordered the Pennsylvania Fowler kit from Jim Chambers yesterday.

I am left handed though, so mine will come with a Siler Lock . . not quite so pretty or fowler looking as your Colonial VA or Round face lock.

I am interested in your progress.

This will be my second build, first with a Chambers. I am no pro . . in fact, I really goofed up a ramrod carving on my Lancaster from TVM last night, but that's a really sore subject at the moment. . . had a hard time sleeping last night over it . . My gun was going great, almost to staining with no major mistakes, and I got sloppy. . .arrrgh !

I am curious, why didn't you go with the pre-carve from Chambers over the blank? I can't imagine doing that, but many folks say they find it better and on some thing easier.

By the way, do we build our own trigger from parts? Looks like that's the case? Perhaps it only involves a pin . . .

Thanks for the pics !!!

First, sorry for bringing up the sore subject, but there are cures for ramrod problems on the forums - here's one from the American LongRifles forum: http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=25674.0
Hope the link works. I've been reading/collecting every book I can find on building, they all give hints as to how to repair or cover up ramrod hole problems. And I bet there are a few folks on this forum who can give you solutions when you feel up to posting the horrible details! Not to make light of your situation but I bet you will be able to fix it.

On your questions, I skipped the pre-carve because I like woodworking - I'm not very good at straight lines and square corners, but gunstocks, like boats, don't have many of those so I thought it looked like fun. On the trigger, yes I think the trigger is as simple as they come, just a pin through the hole, and the trigger plate is separate, only a plate. Not sure where the pin will come through, whether it will be in wood only or both wood and metal.

There are tons of things I don't know so I'm doing a lot of reading, as mentioned, and Mr. C. will probably be pretty fed up with my dumb questions before I'm done. Also this forum, I expect.

Did you order the Chambers DVD on building his kits? I didn't, so I've ordered it now - I'm enjoying the preparations for building almost as much as I expect to enjoy the building.

Cheers,

Jamie

 

[eggwelder]

my first build(only so far) started with less than that. it took about 3 months. i got my book after i finished the build. some here would call it a barn gun, but it was fun building and is more fun to shoot. i think its quite nice. its flint, and i shoot it right or left handed, depending on which shoulder i`m babying at the time.
i`ll be watching your build with interest.

i too also ran the ram rod drill bit out the wrong spot

 

[galamb]

Jamie, looks like you have a nice piece of maple there.

So even if it don't come out anywhere near perfect, it will sure look pretty

 

[coloradoclyde]

Look forward to your progress....

Just remember, No matter how bad you think it looks when your done, it will still be better than a factory rifle, that many have to use.....Because you made it your self. :thumbsup:

 

[Swamp Rat]

I would suggest going ahead and ordering another set of screws for it. as you put things in and out I always bugger the screws. so keep one set clean and nice for the final build. Have fun. keep us posted.

 

[Vaino]

Having not previously built a parts set, starting from a blank hopefully will work out for you.

Have built a few Chambers parts sets w/ a precarve, but normally build from a blank. After the stock layout is complete and bandsawed, there's not much difference in the amount of work between a blank and a precarve...of course I no longer inlet bbls nor do the RR work....prefer sending out for that work.

When using a blank, getting the stock architecture correct isn't that easy. A template is used for my Bucks County LRs, but the Lancasters are drawn freehand.

For many, a precarve is better because the architecture is already done correctly and one's efforts can be zeroed in on the other operations.....Good luck.....Fred

 

[Eric Krewson]

I am a beginner as well having only built three rifles so far. I built two from a plank and my most recent from a precarve. My precarve had issues, off center shaping, way to thin on one side and a gouged out spot in the ramrod groove and butt stock.

I much prefer plank builds over precarves but I was intimidated by the prospect of inletting the barrel and drilling the ramrod hole so I had that work done by the experts.

 

[Pete G]

I noticed that you had put some sort of marker ink on the tail of the entry thimble behind the "thumbnail". Do some study on fowlers before you start cutting on this piece. Most English style guns used a sort of a curved taper in this area. Details matter.

 

[MSW]

If you don't already have a copy, I would suggest that you get The Gunsmith of Grenville County, by Peter Alexander - here's a link https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/321/1/BOOK-GGC
you may also want to consider Recreating the American Longrifle, by Buchele et al - here's a link https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/321/1/BOOK-RAL

these books may seem a bit extravagant at first glance, but their purchase price will be more than recovered in parts you don't ruin because you will understand what's going on, as well as time you won't spend for the replacement parts to arrive (and time in purgatory you don't spend on account of the bad language you would otherwise have used).

Good luck with your build - keep us up to date and take lots of pictures ... we LOVE pictures!

 

[jamieorr]

Having not previously built a parts set, starting from a blank hopefully will work out for you.

Have built a few Chambers parts sets w/ a precarve, but normally build from a blank. After the stock layout is complete and bandsawed, there's not much difference in the amount of work between a blank and a precarve...of course I no longer inlet bbls nor do the RR work....prefer sending out for that work.

When using a blank, getting the stock architecture correct isn't that easy. A template is used for my Bucks County LRs, but the Lancasters are drawn freehand.

For many, a precarve is better because the architecture is already done correctly and one's efforts can be zeroed in on the other operations.....Good luck.....Fred

Fred,

You've put your thumb right on the reason for using a blank, the challenge of getting it right. I've built several small boats and the issue there is the same, getting the desired shape into the initial setup. As far as the barrel and ramrod inletting goes, I figure I need to do it at least once, just to see if I can.

However, I've no problem with following those who have gone before. I've got Track of the Wolf's plan drawing of their English Fowling Gun, and while it's not quite the same as the Penn. Fowler, it will help keep me from going too far off track. I've also got several books, including Grinslade's, and I've got time to search for more resources before I actually cut wood.

And finally, if it all goes south, I can swallow my pride, salvage the parts and order a pre-carve!

Let me add that I have great admiration for the work you've shown on this forum and make a point of carefully reading your posts, along with a few others who delight in setting the bar almost impossibly high. If I get in too deep it's you and they who are at least partially to blame for inspiring guys like me!

And thanks for that,

Jamie

 

[jamieorr]

I am a beginner as well having only built three rifles so far. I built two from a plank and my most recent from a precarve. My precarve had issues, off center shaping, way to thin on one side and a gouged out spot in the ramrod groove and butt stock.

I much prefer plank builds over precarves but I was intimidated by the prospect of inletting the barrel and drilling the ramrod hole so I had that work done by the experts.

Interesting that your precarve was flawed, I wouldn't expect that from a reputable seller. But I like your endorsement of planks!

I'm pretty intimidated by the inletting too, but it's something I want to do. Wish me luck.

Jamie

 

[jamieorr]

Pete G, the inking on the entry thimble was done by Chambers, along with scribing a cutting line which is presumably the right shape. The shape is a curved taper as you mention.

Chances are I'll go with that shape, but I'll be doing the studying you recommend anyway.

MSW, I'm a confirmed bookworm - I have both those titles plus Grinslade's American Fowlers and The Art of Building the Pennsylvania Long Rifle by Ehrig, Miller and Dixon. (I was wondering how to justify ordering that last one when my wife walked in with a copy she found in the thrift store. Have I got a good wife or what?!)

There's a lot more information available on the longrifle than there is on fowlers, however once the shape is decided on, the building techniques will be the same. I'm a member of the local blackpowder club, but haven't met any members with fowlers yet - I need to ask around some more, I'd like to see some examples if I can.

Cheers,

Jamie

 

[kaintuck]

Nice going!......read a lot on laying out your stock shape, the center lines for both barrel and RR channels......your ruler and pencil are your best friends right now.........

and if you run into trouble, just ask your shop cat....they know everything~
marc n tomtom :rotf:

 

[Onojutta]

Congratulations on your purchase! My first build also started out as a kit, but I didn't like the lock that the precarve was inlet for so I abandoned the precarve and got a blank. I preferred the blank over the precarve because I thought it gave me more freedom of approach, if that makes any sense, and I thought I would learn a lot more starting from a blank. Other than setting up the architecture, probably the biggest additional challenge is drilling the ramrod hole on the blank. If I could do that correctly on my first try, anyone can. And besides, drilling a ramrod hole should be a rite of passage!

I could see using a precarve on a future build to save some time, but for the experience working from a blank is a lot more rewarding, IMHO.

One advantage I had was the original precarve stock that came with my kit to use as an example to help lay out the architecture on my blank. That was a big help, as well as the three familiar books on gun building. Good luck and don't forget to post photos of your progress.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Another thing about my precarve, my barrel got misplaced so they sent me back the precarve without the barrel in the inlet. It gained about a 3" dog leg in the forestock in spite of being taped to a board.

I did get to invent a creative way to straighten the stock that I have never seen mentioned before.

 

[Vaino]

Your experience is why the bbl must be shipped w/ a recently profiled precarve.

I returned a parts set to a supplier because evidently the precarve sat in inventory for quite awhile w/o a bbl and had a warped and twisted forend..just too much to contend w/.

Chambers ships their parts sets w/ a precarve that hasn't sat around. Have built a few of their parts sets which didn't have any warpage or twisting at all.....Fred

 

[Micah Clark]

That's good to hear as I have a barrel coming directly from Rice and the Chambers PA fowler stock, (which has a long 44 inch barrel), coming from Jim. . .rather than coming together.

Since it is a lefty, I think from what she said, it will be carved soon rather than picked out of a stack of pre-carves.

Me personally, I've only built one rifle and I am not good enough of a builder to not use a pre-carve. I'd be just as likely to come out of it with the stock of a Remington 700 as I would a Lancaster w/o a pre-carve.