Anti-seize

[zimmerstutzen]

I use it on nearly everything around the farm It isn't absolutely rust proof but sure helps. Breech threads, drum threads and nipple threads and it takes such a tiny amount that a few ounces lasts a life time for most folks. Oil does spread out too much, but so can too much antiseize. Some things work almost as well. For years i used a high temp acid resistant grease but it didn't work quite as well.

 

[50cal.cliff]

OFF TOPIC / SORT OF

I am going to hit this one more time. Once year I put 2 brand new spindles on a commercial mower in one season as once the blade was on the mower.

I stripped the threads off of the spindle trying to remove the blade every time. At about $30.00 plus cost per spindle and labor of about two or three hours each time because you would have to remove the entire deck to pull the spindles.

I had tried every kind of oil and grease but could not find anything that would stand up to the dirt and corrosion that the spindles were exposed too. Then the clouds parted and I discovered a product called anti-seize. :bow:


I have never been without it since!!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:

 

[Rifleman1776]

From what I have heard from oldtimers that I listened to their grandfathers' just used a little beeswax! It seems beeswax was the cureall of the day. It also sealed powder horns, mixed with varuous fats and oils for patch lube, and even acted as a "glass bedding" to fill inleting gaps. :idunno: :idunno:

I would like to see others expand on OH's comments about beeswax. I am about to pull the breech on my fowler and believe the anti-sieze idea is a good one. But, being kinda cheep :redface: , I don't want to buy a whole container to use just one drop. I have some beeswax/whale oil patch lube. Would that be OK or would it burn up on a breech plug?

 

[JMinnerath]

As someone who twisted wrenches on heavy equipment for close to 50 years I can tell you that use of anti-seize on threaded parts is almost always the way to go.
Cost is negligible. Parts houses and hardware stores sell small containers for low price.
For the use we're talking about here an ounce would be a lifetime supply.
Hell, some mechanic in a heavy equipment shop might just give you dab or even an old mostly empty can with enough left in it to last you forever.

 

[ohio ramrod]

The bees wax was what they used because they did not have antisieze. While I use beeswax in my lubes, and for filling inleting gaps I would not consider it for long term use such as breech plugs or ventliners.For nipples it should work fairly well since for those you really just want something to seal the threads until you clean the gun after each shooting session. :idunno: :idunno:

 

[Len Graves]

How many gorillas do you have to shoot to get a pint of gorilla grease??

 

[hanshi]

Just wipe the brow of a teenage gorilla and squeeze it into a bottle. Safer than squeezing an adult. :v

 

[Jblk]

I use anti sieze on most of my old equipment but I always manage to get some on my hands.I usually use the yellow teflon tape on my firearms, its alot cleaner.

 

[50cal.cliff]

The bees wax was what they used because they did not have antisieze. While I use beeswax in my lubes, and for filling inleting gaps I would not consider it for long term use such as breech plugs or ventliners.For nipples it should work fairly well since for those you really just want something to seal the threads until you clean the gun after each shooting session. :idunno: :idunno:

I have to agree with Ohio on this one. Look I have used beeswax mixed in different ratios's, in all sorts of lubes over the years.
However one problem with beeswax is it is heat sensitive. Too hot and its runny and to cool and its hard to work with.

The gorilla grease thing is just that a mix of beeswax,(in my opinion)! If you can get it into the threads it work OK but often I lays on the surface and doesn't protect the metal.

The real great thing about anti seize and I don't know nor do I need to know what its ingredients are it works!!!!!!!!!!

And it works because it actually penetrates into the pores of the metal. If you don't believe me put a dab between your fingers and roll it around with your thumb and forefinger, then see how many tissues it takes to get your hand clean. I think you will find that many hours later when you think you have got it all you are still wiping up some residue.It's that residue that keeps it on the metal not only when its hot but when its cool, and even when it comes in contact with another corrosive element. Such as those in black powder, it doesn't break down.

I personally don't care whether you use it or not it works. And back in the day when all they had was bear grease and beeswax that is what they used. Had they had anti seize then I am sure, the smart ones would have used it!

I try to stay to tradition when at all possible but even back in the day when an ole timer discovered something new that worked he didn't just stick his head in the sand and say, "well this is better but I don't want to be better"!

He grabbed up the new thing and said to his partner look here.

I got some stuff here in my bag that will guarantee your rifle works the next time your life depends on it. :haha: :rotf: :idunno:

 

[BrownBear]

My experience with anti-seize kinda runs along the lines of yours 50cal.cliff, but I diverge a little.

Your observation about fingers and tissues is right on the money, and that's why I DON'T use it. The stuff gets everywhere in my clumsy paws and it's a PITA to get rid of.

I'm not going all traditional on you, rather I'm being practical. Around here with boats and gear on the ocean, I have no end of moly grease laying around. That's what I use on about every thread known to man including nipples and breech plugs, but I still use the anti-seize on lug nuts. It's about the only thing that keeps them from freezing up with rust, but all day long anyone can tell when I had to change a tire. I'm already a big enough mess with muzzleloaders, but the moly grease doesn't show up near as bad as anti-seize.

 

[50cal.cliff]

My experience with anti-seize kinda runs along the lines of yours 50cal.cliff, but I diverge a little.

Your observation about fingers and tissues is right on the money, and that's why I DON'T use it. The stuff gets everywhere in my clumsy paws and it's a PITA to get rid of.

I'm not going all traditional on you, rather I'm being practical. Around here with boats and gear on the ocean, I have no end of moly grease laying around. That's what I use on about every thread known to man including nipples and breech plugs, but I still use the anti-seize on lug nuts. It's about the only thing that keeps them from freezing up with rust, but all day long anyone can tell when I had to change a tire. I'm already a big enough mess with muzzleloaders, but the moly grease doesn't show up near as bad as anti-seize.

:grin: