Barry Jackson
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Will regular anti-seize grease work on a revolvers nipples? Or is there something better? Got willed a BP pistol. Been into guns 30 years now, but this`s a first...
Anti-Seize
- Thread starter Barry Jackson
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Regular anti-seize works just fine. Choke tube lube does too. For lack of anything better chassis grease or white lithium grease will do. Teflon tape may work but I never tried it. The important thing is that they should not be installed dry or over tightened.
Barry Jackson said:
Permatex Anti-Seize works just fine. I like to use bore butter but the Permatex is better if you leave the cones in longer.
Billnpatti
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The short answer is yes. I happened to find a tube of anti-seize that was meant for use on the breach of an inline rifle. It works great for all of my nipples and any other thing for which I need an anti-seize. I found mine in the sale section of the sporting goods section at Wal-Mart after deer season one year. One tube will last a lifetime. There are a number of anti-seize compounds out there and about any of them will do the job.
Yup, Just what Bill said,
But use it sparingly, too much slathered on can/will interfere with ignition and cause some nasty fowling. :wink:
But use it sparingly, too much slathered on can/will interfere with ignition and cause some nasty fowling. :wink:
I have found no need for such a product.
A tiny dot of gun oil on the threads of the nipple and only tightening the nipple to just snug and you are good to go. There is no need to torque down on the nipple wrench to keep the nipple in place. Thus there is no need for an anti-seize product.
A tiny dot of gun oil on the threads of the nipple and only tightening the nipple to just snug and you are good to go. There is no need to torque down on the nipple wrench to keep the nipple in place. Thus there is no need for an anti-seize product.
Cynthialee said:
There is no reason to torque down on a nipple, correct. A snug nipple is what a person needs.
Anti-seize is not used in torqueing applications
After working a career in chemical plants, refineries and the salt water marine environment, there is a use for anti-seize. Only costs a penny or so more.
Anit-seize, well worth the cost.
No more posts about "how do I remove my stuck nipples" if anti-seize is used and proper tightening.
Teflon tape is a good alternative, in the marine environment we went to teflon coated nuts and bolts to stop corrosion and make removal easy.
rafterob
62 Cal.
I'm in Cynthia's camp on this one also. I only remove my revolver nipples once a year when I break down the entire gun, in my case a '58 Remmington model. Have never had a problem getting the nipples out.
:haha:Richard Eames said:
Richard Eames said:
Pull the cone out and stick the handle end of your cone wrench down into the hole and hammer the ball out. Stick the cylinder on the corner of a piece of wood so the ball can drop from the chamber.
I use Track of the Wolf's NW-series wrenches, toughest ones out there.
Used to use brass punches but the tips kept breaking off.
We've done a few dry balls, double balls, but usually it was done early on when teaching the children to load at home on the kitchen table. Cream of Wheat instead of powder. :wink:
Have bought some guns whose cones were hopelessly jammed in there. Anti-seize would have overcome the poor maintenance habits of the previous owner.
Ohh, and as previously said, a little goes a long way!
It's been reported that nipples tighten up during shooting. Maybe so, since otherwise how do so many people end up with stuck nipples?
When cleaning a firearm after shooting, I always remove the nipples and just snug them up when replacing. Particularly when the nipple and the barrel are made of different materials, there is a risk of the parts galling. A tiny dab of oil or anti-seize on the male threads of the nipple can help prevent galling.
Galling is a process in which atoms of one metal surface slough off into another surface in contact, and the two parts become joined, almost like welding. It's most common for threaded connections.
When cleaning a firearm after shooting, I always remove the nipples and just snug them up when replacing. Particularly when the nipple and the barrel are made of different materials, there is a risk of the parts galling. A tiny dab of oil or anti-seize on the male threads of the nipple can help prevent galling.
Galling is a process in which atoms of one metal surface slough off into another surface in contact, and the two parts become joined, almost like welding. It's most common for threaded connections.
If one clean right away likely no lube needed. But I myself and me too clean em up spiffy and put just a dab of gorilla grease on the threads. Never a problem misfiring or removing. If I were to leave loaded for protection or long hunt I would not use anything at all. Just my $3.00 worth...
If you are careful to not put more oil on the threads than needed, then take a q-tip to the inside face of the nipple after securing it into place then you don't have to worry about it. Just make sure that there is no oil in the chamber on the nipple face.azmntman said:
And if you put the right amount of oil on the threads there will be just a tiny trace to wipe up inside the chamber.
I remove the nipples from the cylinder after every trip out to the shooting barrel. I could not imagine one of my guns sitting long enough to have a worry about seizing or galling.
zimmerstutzen
70 Cal.
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I agree about folks using too much torque, etc. However, oil evaporates over time. A good quality gun or machine oil evaporates more slowly, but they all evaporate. Obviously within the threads more slowly than exposed areas.
If you shoot a gun regularly and oil it as often, there is no need for more than oil, normally. If you shoot under conditions that the gun gets warm, the oil disappears more quickly, the threads expand and contract and thin oil loses much of it's ability to prevent sticking.
When i shoot, I don't shoot couple cylinders. I'll shoot perhaps a couple hundred shots in an afternoon. Thin gun or machine oil just won't hold up under such conditions.
When I first started, I used gun grease on nipple threads and found that worked ok. Then I tried gear oil. When i got more into the metal working side of things, I discovered anti seize. I use it on machine parts, farm equipment, etc. It is messy, seems to seep into everything and must be used quite sparingly. But under heavy use, it can't be beat. It also keeps it's non-stick properties much longer than gun oil.
If you shoot a gun regularly and oil it as often, there is no need for more than oil, normally. If you shoot under conditions that the gun gets warm, the oil disappears more quickly, the threads expand and contract and thin oil loses much of it's ability to prevent sticking.
When i shoot, I don't shoot couple cylinders. I'll shoot perhaps a couple hundred shots in an afternoon. Thin gun or machine oil just won't hold up under such conditions.
When I first started, I used gun grease on nipple threads and found that worked ok. Then I tried gear oil. When i got more into the metal working side of things, I discovered anti seize. I use it on machine parts, farm equipment, etc. It is messy, seems to seep into everything and must be used quite sparingly. But under heavy use, it can't be beat. It also keeps it's non-stick properties much longer than gun oil.
rafterob
62 Cal.
Be glad you don't live in North Carolina, watch your State legislature closely :shake: And I have never dry balled my revolver......well maybe once or twice. I pull the nipple and have a brass rod to punch it out with.
I use anti-seize its just good insurance. It also works good for lubing molds. When i am at home i pull the nipples when cleaning for me it is just easier. When cleaning in camp i don't like removing small parts from my revolvers so i leave them in. I just back them out a 1/2 a turn and snug them back up. I use a cordless drill and a sheet rock screw to remove dry balls from revolver cylinders. Fast and easy.
Billnpatti
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I have never used anti-seize on my moulds. Most all of my many moulds are Lee moulds and Lee says to use a tiny bit of bees wax as the lubricant of choice. According to them, other lubricants can get into the mould cavity and cause malformed balls. Since I have bees wax, I just followed their directions. I don't know why bees wax would be less likely to get into the mould cavity but I just carefully add a tiny dab to the hinges and it seems to have worked quite well for my many years of casting. But, if you find that anti-seize works well for you, you just can't argue with success. :thumbsup:
I also lube the bottom of the sprue cutter. After i get my mold up to temp and while it still has lead in it i apply a very small amount of anti-seize with a q-tip. open and close the mold a few times done deal last a long time.
robinsroost
50 Cal.
The question, as I recall was can anti seize grease be used on the threads of revolver nipples. The answer, of course, is yes, not whether it is a good idea. I also use anti seize, sparingly, applied with a small artists brush. I remove the nipples from all of my percussion firearms, every time they are cleaned, which is every time they have been fired. Some times they may remain in the safe for several months between use and I have never had a problem with stuck nipples. To each their own.......Robin
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