Anyone help on scotch bright

[Crow#21957]

I read that even the fine scotch bright is more abraisive than steel wool. I would like the scotch bright if I could find super fine.
What do you steel wool users do to prevent hairs of steel in the finish. I close off my room ,, wipe the stock very well,,steel wool between coats. Tried a roller for lint,, the masking tape kind. I think I've got it nut then when the stock is dried I always see a hair of steel wool or more.
Maybe soapy water and rinse ,,,alcohol,,tack cloth.
So what's the trick.?
I actually got one gun that is baby skin smooth. It even looks great. Smoooooth that's all I can say about it.

 

[SDSmlf]

I have posted this information a number of times. It may or may not help you.

Many Scotch-Brite options. The light gray 7448 is the equivalent of 0000 steel wool per 3M charts. I’m also a fan of the Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner.

Here are some charts with equivalents to steel wool and grits for the various 3M Stoch-Brite pads.

 

[necchi]

So what's the trick.?

Don't use steel wool,,(?)
And/or a tack cloth,, but wash your hands and clothes,, clean the work area,, those tiny steel shards WILL lift to surfaces with simple static.
If and when I use steel wool, it's far away from my finish area,, I had to learn that the hard way decades ago

 

[SDSmlf]

Don't use steel wool,,(?)
And/or a tack cloth,, but wash your hands and clothes,, clean the work area,, those tiny steel shards WILL lift to surfaces with simple static.
If and when I use steel wool, it's far away from my finish area,, I had to learn that the hard way decades ago

Not going to be believed until experienced a number of times. Just the way it is with some who have to experience things themselves multiple times before considering as a possibility.

 

[The Appalachian]

3M synthetic steel wool. I use 000 found on the shelf at Ace Hardware for rubbing down between coats of finish, and for rubbing back metal finishes. It's easier for me to find locally than the appropriate "grit" of scotchbrite. Even Jim Kibbler mentions it in videos.

 

[OldMaineWoodsman]

An alternative:

https://www.hoffmanngroupusa.com/elasto-abrasive-cleaner-sic-80x65-mm/

 

[Tumbledown]

Scotchbrite can leave a residue as well. The issue is a finish that's still tacky enough to trap it.

 

[Crow#21957]

3M synthetic steel wool. I use 000 found on the shelf at Ace Hardware for rubbing down between coats of finish, and for rubbing back metal finishes. It's easier for me to find locally than the appropriate "grit" of scotchbrite. Even Jim Kibbler mentions it in videos.

View attachment 243522

Thanks that's great

 

[Red Owl]

I read that even the fine scotch bright is more abraisive than steel wool. I would like the scotch bright if I could find super fine.
What do you steel wool users do to prevent hairs of steel in the finish. I close off my room ,, wipe the stock very well,,steel wool between coats. Tried a roller for lint,, the masking tape kind. I think I've got it nut then when the stock is dried I always see a hair of steel wool or more.
Maybe soapy water and rinse ,,,alcohol,,tack cloth.
So what's the trick.?
I actually got one gun that is baby skin smooth. It even looks great. Smoooooth that's all I can say about it.

What are you using for the finish? Boiled linseed oil? Tru-oil?

 

[The Crisco Kid]

I gave up on the steel wool and use the grey scotchbrite. For the final coats of finish I wipe it on with a pad of the blue scot shop towel and then wipe it off as soon as it gets a little tacky. What this does is leave a thin pretty dry coat of finish that dust won't stick to plus it takes off any particles that are on the stock. A high gloss can be achieved with a follow up polishing with a soft cloth.

 

[ormond tony]

I use the maroon to defarb and smooth out the bore. There was a youtube demo by duelist54. Because he had to swab the bore after 2 shots he used the scotch brite about 100 times from top to bottom of bore. After this procedure, he was able to shoot about 10-12 times before running a clean patch. I use it on all my long arms and then use a cleaning patch with whatever I am cleaning with to get rid of residue. It works!!!!!!!

 

[R Ellis]

Try a magnet to remove steel wool fibers just a thought

 

[Crow#21957]

What are you using for the finish? Boiled linseed oil? Tru-oil?

Permalyn from log cabin. I believe it's made by laurel mnt.

 

[waksupi]

As long as I let the finish set up properly, I have never got steel wool fragments in the finish. Some just try to rush the process too fast.

 

[ZUG]

On bare wood I sand to either 320 or 400 depending on the density of the wood then I will go over the stock with 4/0 steel wool then burnish the stock with a coarse weave cloth. Before I apply a finish or sealer, I go over the stock with a tack cloth to remove any particles. I never had an issue with steel wool left in or on a stock. I have also used the maroon and gray Scotch-Brite instead of the 4/0 steel wool but I like the steel wool better. I've been doing it this way for MANY years and never had an issue.

 

[Two Feathers]

FWIW:
I dampen the wood then use 0000 steel wool after it dries. Then I use 600 grit paper. Blow it off with my compressor, and finish with Tried & True varnish oil with Polymerized Linseed oil with bees wax. That's never let me down. Just my $0.02
God bless:
Two Feathers

 

[HSmithTX]

Scotchbrite can leave a residue as well. The issue is a finish that's still tacky enough to trap it.

This is the correct answer in my experience, if the finish is dry enough to be working with it won't hold fibers from steel wool or scotchbrite or anything else, a paper towel or an old t-shirt or just about anything will take all of the debris off the stock. Do this away from where you are finishing the stock, and remember that you likely have debris all over you after you rub/sand/whatever the finish and if you don't take care of it you will carry it back into the area where you are finishing. If the stock is actually dry enough to work on and you don't carry trash into the finish when finishing it shouldn't be an issue.

 

[The Appalachian]

Scotchbrite doesn't rust, which is why we use it......

It goes without saying that proper finishing is cured between coats, but put your so called "dry" finish under a microscope after steelwooling and tell us there's no imbedded particles of metal.

Rust happens on a microscopic level as well, not just on contaminants that are are large enough to be seen or felt.

 

[HSmithTX]

Are we worried about microscopic pieces or visible pieces? Me, I worry about visible garbage in the finish, if I can see it with my readers or my optivisor it's way too big and gets refinished. If I can't see it and it is IN the finish, it isn't a problem and it won't rust, when the finish wears until it's exposed it won't rust enough to bother anything. If it does bother anything it's a snap to fix it and you'd never know it was there.

 

[The Appalachian]

Or, just not take the chance of including rust in your finish and not use steel wool........