anyone use a plain dowel as a ramrod?

[Elnathan]

I suggest making your own. I bought a board of Hickory at my local lumber store - picked one with the grain relatively parallel to the face and sides - cut a 3/4 x 3/4 inch blank and shaped the rod with a plane, rasp, scraper and sandpaper. Took about an hour...and I was making a tapered rod.

That is pretty much what I did, except that I split mine out. I also followed the wavy grain more or less when rounding it and then straightened it out like an arrow. I'm pretty sure it took considerably longer than an hour (and I recently went back and re-straightened it, sanded it, and then stained and finished it), but I have a hard time believing that the result could be broken under normal use.

 

[Gene L]

You could probably do it in an hour from a 1/2" x 1/2" billet...just round off the corners. I doubt that time can be matched if you split it out of a stave...especially if you don't have a way of holding it down while you work on it.

 

[running horse]

I would think you could use a oak shoot if you could find one mostly straight, just debark and let it dry, straightening isn't to hard, you may need to thin down one end a little though. I would think that would give you the straightest grain and any run out would be a non issue because it wont sheer. I am sure there are other woods in your area that would work well also. If there is a flaw in my thinking please let me know i am learning also.

 

[Black Hand]

You could probably do it in an hour from a 1/2" x 1/2" billet...just round off the corners. I doubt that time can be matched if you split it out of a stave...especially if you don't have a way of holding it down while you work on it.

So far, you've given reasons why you believe it can't be done. Just try it yourself and see how easy it really is...

 

[Gene L]

I'll certainly give it a try. Keep in mind I don't have a way to hold the billet to work it down. Any solutions for that?

 

[Black Hand]

I use my hand. Work the half away from you with the plane then switch ends and work the other end down. It will go quickly. Once the major shaping is done, you can scrape the entire length to fit the thimbles. Just watch the grain.

 

[Gene L]

You're encouraging. I don't need a RR, but I'll give it a try. Never can have too many.

 

[Twisted_1in66]

Fly tying thread is definitely finer and stronger than silk.

Bear in mind the main reason that they used intermediate wraps for early bamboo rods was because they were using hide glues to bind the 6-strips together. After Urac-85 adhesive came out, the intermediate strips disappeared.

Still, if you are using modern 8/0 (72-denier) round polyester thread such as that made by Uni, it would probably add some strength and still fit in the thimbles without binding. Adding fly-tying head cement to protect the thread from abrasion would need to be done in multiple thin coats to keep from adding too much bulk.

The real answer though is to use short strokes with the ramrod instead of long ones.

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
Dan

 

[Black Hand]

You're encouraging. I don't need a RR, but I'll give it a try. Never can have too many.

If you've made bows and arrows, then you have all the skills you need to make a rammer. The only difference is that I use a size-gauge (piece of brass with a 5/16 or 11/32 inch hole) when making arrow shafts.

 

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

Is there any reason the ramrod must be straight?

I have always found that a slight bend helps hold them snug in the thimbles.

 

[Black Hand]

I take all the major kinks out of the rammer and prefer it to be as straight as possible. My rammers stay in the timbles and I ensure this by tying a thin leather thong (chamois) around the forward thimble (interference fit).

 

[Elkeater]

My rammers stay in the timbles and I ensure this by tying a thin leather thong (chamois) around the forward thimble (interference fit).

From drawings of the west fur trade era I've often wondered what was dangling from near the muzzle of their rifles. Could it be your thong Black Hand? Thank you.

 

[Black Hand]

My rammers stay in the timbles and I ensure this by tying a thin leather thong (chamois) around the forward thimble (interference fit).

From drawings of the west fur trade era I've often wondered what was dangling from near the muzzle of their rifles. Could it be your thong Black Hand? Thank you.

Difficult to say, but it is possible. All I know is that it works, only takes a couple of minutes and the rammer doesn't slide.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

From drawings of the west fur trade era I've often wondered what was dangling from near the muzzle of their rifles.

My guesstimate only, but in our MZL hunting camp you'll see small light feathers dangling off a ramrod thimble towards the muzzle, as a ready 'wind indicator'.

They'll detect moving air currents you can't feel ...

 

[Elkeater]

Yes I use thread for that. The drawings appear to be leather.

 

[Eddie Southgate]

Boy. Talk about thread drift killing a question. I was just wondering if anyone has ever omitted the brass tips and almost everyone thinks they need to preach about grain runnout.

I know about grain runout and poking my hand. I wasn't asking about grain runout.

Yes I have used just a plain rod with no brass ferrule . It works fine . I buy rods from Dixie by the hand full . Hickory holds up naked but I wouldn't use the hardware store version without some support on the end as the ones I have tried have been a lot softer .

Eddie

 

[coloradoclyde]

I've done it too....but I really like having a concave end to form around the ball....eventually you will probably damage the rod end....I did.

I like to have at least one threaded brass end so I can attach a jag for cleaning between shots.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I've done it too....but I really like having a concave end to form around the ball....eventually you will probably damage the rod end....I did.

I have made many short starters with nekkid hickory shafts. I concave the tips with a drill bit and fire harden them over a candle. Never had a failure. They are cheap and fun to make. Most end up as blanket prizes or gifts.

 

[coloradoclyde]

.....never thought to fire harden it... .....Thanks!... :thumbsup:

 

[Elkeater]

I've done it too....but I really like having a concave end to form around the ball....eventually you will probably damage the rod end....I did.

I have made many short starters with nekkid hickory shafts. I concave the tips with a drill bit and fire harden them over a candle. Never had a failure. They are cheap and fun to make. Most end up as blanket prizes or gifts.

Please give instruction on fire hardening wooden tip.