Asphalt stain & bees wax finish

[George Pittelko]

This past week at the Contemporary Longrifle show I saw a
beautiful rifle that was stained with asphalt (purchased from an art supply store, I believe under the name of asphaltium) and thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits. The final finish of bees wax - 2 rubbed coats - was applied to a warmed maple stock to liquify the wax. I was told that the bees wax provided the grain sealing and the final finish. It's my understanding that this process does not raise wood grain - in this example, the wood was highly figured maple. The finished stock had a very smooth satin finish.

What experience does anyone in our group have with this finish. What are the pros and cons. Also, can this process be used successfully with english walnut.

 

Been wanting to try the asphaltum finish on my next project. Dixon's book says the color is a dark brown. I was curious if you'd use this over aqua fortis or not. Would like to hear others opinions and experience on this as well. Also sources for materials.

I have used the hot wax, both bee's and parafin, on wooden bows. Used a heat gun on it until the wood wouldn't soak up any more wax, then burnished. Very nice satin finish that seems very stable in terms of moisture content (important on self bows). Not slick to the touch like a varnish or a built-up oil finish. The bee's wax smells good too. Try it on a scrap. It's easy.

Sean

 

[Black Hand]

I believe this is used instead of aqua fortis to bring out the curl. However others may know otherwise.

 

[rich pierce]

I've seen it go quite black in the stripes. Depends on the look you're after. It's a little loud for me. The striping on curly maple is often fairly subtle on old guns with the original finish. Maybe that's due to the finish becoming yellowed and opaque.

 

Anyone seen any originals where asphaltum might have been used?

Seems to me that I remember reading somewhere that some used this stuff to patina wood in addition to AQF. Could be way wrong, but I'd like to play with it on some scraps.

Sean

 

[George Pittelko]

The asphaltum stained rifle I commented about at the Contemporary Longrifle show had a gray cast with darker colored stripes. I learned that the color can be varied by the number of staining coats and thinning of the asphaltum. I don't know how this will work on english walnut; but, I think I will experiment on some scrap wood later as I progress with the .54 cal Jim Chambers English sporting rifle kit.

 

[Stophel]

I've tried this once, and it looks AWFUL. It fills the grain and makes it have dark specks. This is basically tar. Also, I am dubious of the durability of it. Since it is just tar, it doesn't really dry. Especially with nothing like Linseed oil to fix the "stain" I would expect that it would tend to wash out. You can try it, but please, try it on a scrap piece of wood first...

Stick with Aqua fortis or no stain at all!!! :winking:

 

[BLAHMAN]

Stick with Aqua fortis or no stain at all!!! :winking:

Aqua fortis is in short supply. I think anniline dyes are good, they can be blended to just about any color you can think of. :m2c:

 

Aqua fortis is in short supply. I think anniline dyes are good, they can be blended to just about any color you can think of. :m2c:

It's not in short supply, you just have to make your own. You can get nitric acid from just about any chemical supply company, by the gallon. Dissolve your choice of rusty iron in it and off you go.

 

[Erzulis boat]

It's in the execution.

I can get the finest aqua fortis, have my linseed boiled 27 times in outer space, and if I suck, it will look like hell.

Some codger in a shotgun shack can use old boot polish, and if he is good, it will come out a showstopper.

Remember, 90 percent of the folks that claim that they used aqua fortis- didn't!

:m2c: :imo:

 

[fatboy]

How many of you have tried to buy Nitric acid in the last month ? Legally ? My understanding is that it is restricted chemical, I guess because of 9/11 and homeland security. If anyone can come with a honest ansewer I would like to here it. A friend came up with some from a shop guy was willing to part with some so I may get to try some of this some time in the future.

 

[Erzulis boat]

Try www.al-chymist.com, get into "chemicals" and add to shopping cart.

1 litre (a little more than a quart) is 25 dollars (American!)

It might very well have been added to the restricted chemicals list, but it is still on their website.

Aqua Fortis means "Strong Water" in Latin. Nitric acid IS Aqua Fortis by itself, adding nails and the like is an additional ingredient, it does not turn Nitric Acid into "Aqua Fortis", as it already is! :shake:

Sorry about that one folks, just one of my pet peeves.

Use any stain you want!

I fear not the P.C. Police, or Post Parrots!

 

[BLAHMAN]

We had an 'aqua fortis' discussion some time ago, and if I remember correctly, somebody used a browning solution to actually do the trick....can't remember who that was....can anybody enlighten me?

 

[Stophel]

The end result of all this fuming reaction is "Nitrate of Iron", though some nitric acid will of course remain. This can be bought in crystal form and is what some of the guys now use. Just add water. I haven't tried it yet because I have enough nitric acid to last me a LONG time. I last bought it at least 2 years ago, and it was $10 a liter. The "hazardous material handling" fee cost as much as the two liters I bought! No doubt it is higher now, as is everything. www.kyantec.com Ky. Antec is a chemical supplier and will sell you anything you want in virtually any quantity.


Aniline dyes...one of MY peeves! ::

 

[rabbit03]

HI guy

I was wondering about the aqua fortis also. I had always thought you needed the water mixed with it and then it was the AQUA FORTIS but not being too familiar with it I am not sure. I do know for the recipe you need to add water since water is added to introduce oxygen to the acid and that is how it is able to become so strong.

Hey Davy I too bought alot so as to never run out.

rabbit03

 

[fatboy]

Hmm maybe this resticted thing lay's with only certain states laws dont know but thanks for the imput and will check this web site out

 

[benvenuto]

I seem to recall from chemistry class years ago, never add water to acid. If its strong acid the water could vapourise and case nasty acid splatters on your face. if you want dilute acid add the acid to the water bit by bit.
ff:

 

[rich pierce]

I've got plenty of nitric acid to make all the AQF many gunsmiths could use for 10 years.

 

Chris, thanks for your thoughts and experience on the asphaltum. Will stick with AQF. Do you ever stain over AQF with anything else or AQF only? Have seen some of your guns... Nice.

Sean

 

[rabbit03]

Benvenuto your right about adding the acid to the water. Check my post on 8/18/05

I use about a 4 part water to 1 part nitric acid making sure to pour the nitric in the water and not the other way around and pour it slowly and be certain to avoid the fumes. the fumes are fatal if breathed long enough and the short term effects are it will sear your lungs. So make sure you do this outside and not in a colsed environment.

rabbit03