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BlueSky

32 Cal.
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It seems like an obviously good idea to have spare flints along, sized and ready to swap in. I'm thinking that if they're wrapped in lead and fired a few times, the lead should be formed around the flint and you could remove them as a unit. They should then re-mount pretty close to original position? 2-3 spares in the bag would be a real handy time saver.

BTW, where does everyone get the lead sheet used to wrap the flints?
 
I use leather to wrap my flints. i haven't had any problems with that. I always have extra flints in my shooting bag also. Usually have alittle tab of leather to. Just cut it to size if I need to when I replace my flint. I usually just use the peice out of the jaws unless I drop it and lose it or something.
 
Mr. BlueSky,
It is very easy to make your own sheet lead. Just take one of your round balls and hammer it flat. Make it as thin as you like.
Best Wishes
 
To each their own of course...seems like more work than is necessary but that's just me...I use traditional leather flint wraps...carry 3 in a little 'flint wallet' with the sharp edge down so its protected, and each has a spare leather wrap.

Have carried spares for 10 years now and never needed one...but as sure as I stop carrying them I'd have a flint shatter on the first shot over a hot dove field
:wink:

080809FlintWallet.jpg
 
WindWalker said:
Mr. BlueSky,
It is very easy to make your own sheet lead. Just take one of your round balls and hammer it flat. Make it as thin as you like.
Best Wishes

Of course, seems obvious now! :redface: Thank you

In the "articles" section there was a strong recommendation for using lead over leather, I'm surprised no one has really come out in favor of it.
 
Talk to the lock makers, you may find a different story. Jim Chambers frowns of this and voids warranty if you use lead.
 
I use an altoids box, sandblasted and browned to match my rifle.

I carry 15 flints, 10 leathers, and 4 leads.

Someday I may have to use some.
 
BlueSky said:
In the "articles" section there was a strong recommendation for using lead over leather, I'm surprised no one has really come out in favor of it.

Yes, we're aware of the "article" you refer to...its just an individual's opinion and because it's written in one individual's article doesn't make it gospel. The conclusion can be drawn that the reason there's no widespread support in favor of lead flint wraps in the world of traditional muzzleloading is that they do not fit in the world of traditional muzzleloading.

The use of lead as a flint wrap was a limited military thing, used in big heavy military lock assemblies and lead balls were conveniently available to pound out and then be discarded with the used flint, quickly replaced with another.

However, lead is not representative of what was used as a flint wrap in civilian muzzleloaders back in the early american muzzleloading era...leather was the flint wrap of choice used by the population for locks in their hunting / sporting rifles and smoothbores.
 
OK, I understand things a little better now: not a "traditional" practice and may be hard on the locks themselves. Might have to re-think the lead idea but still plan on carrying spares. Roundball's leather pouch looks pretty neat, I wonder if I could manage to make something like it... :hmm:
 
Try both leather and lead. I explain a test that was done to me to convince me that lead was better. Most people here WON'T DO the test properly, because they are entrenched in the idea that leather is just as good as lead, or for some other reason.

Its up to you, and you alone to decide what works better.

Be forewarned that there are some flintlocks where the frizzen is NOT properly hardened, and no matter what you use, you will get only red/orange sparks, that don't live very long, and are few in number.

However, with a properly hardened flint, and a tuned lock, a lead wrap will give you hotter sparks, more sparks, and sparks that live longer, than when that same flint is used wrapped in soft leather. You do have to sit or stand in the dark about 20 minutes, to let your eyes dilate fully to do the test properly, IN THE DARK, to see the difference in the color of the sparks. Those who disagree with using lead wraps claim to have done the testing- in daylight- or in the dark, but within minutes of turning off the lights. If you don't follow procedures to do any test, the result will not be the same as others have experienced. But, if you don't want the results to be the same, then why bother.

I have done this test hundreds of times over the years, and have had other flintlock shooters take up the cause and do the test with other doubters dozens of times, all to the same conclusion.

But, make up your own mind. If you want to use leather, I recommend using thin leather, like from the tongue of an old shoe, or the leather from an old wallet, or purse. wet the leather, and then squeeze it in the jaws of a vice to make it nice and thin and hard. When its dry, you can flex is in your fingers enough to make it fold over the flint.

If you begin to see " chatter marks" on your frizzen, the leather wrap is acting like a shock absorber, and the flint is bouncing back off the frizzen on first impact. Then, the frizzen begins to open in reaction to the first hit, when its hit the second time, leaving the second impact mark, or " chatter". Change the leather to a thinner piece, or switch to lead wraps.

I have taken a lot of heat from RB and others here about this issue, and I have said nothing here until now, because I don't want to discuss this matter further. Do the TEST. Do it Correctly. And then make your own decision. Anything that lets you learn more about your flintlock is a worthwhile thing to do.

There are many members here who have written to me privately to thank me for steering them to use lead wraps. They also indicate they don't want to take the Abuse heaped on me over this issue. So, its no wonder no so few have chimed in on this, in favor of using lead. I couldn't care less if RB uses leather wraps on his flints.
 
BlueSky said:
OK, I understand things a little better now: not a "traditional" practice and may be hard on the locks themselves. Might have to re-think the lead idea but still plan on carrying spares. Roundball's leather pouch looks pretty neat, I wonder if I could manage to make something like it... :hmm:
They're quite simple...get a small piece of leather, fold up the bottom and make the stitches, or if a shoe shop in handy, mark where you want the stitches and they'll stitch it while you're standing there.
Then punch a hole and slip in a piece of rawhide boot lace as a simple wrap to keep it closed.
 
Thanks Paul for adding your comments, especially the tips on diagnosing the frizzen marks. I know people can have honest differences in opinion and it can be contentious at times. I have no desire to disrupt this community, I'm just trying to learn as much as I can before getting my first rifle and it helps to have some idea of what to try, what to expect and what to look for as I begin. I do search and read through old posts and try not to ask anything already covered, but I do miss things sometimes.
 
In all my squirrel or deer hunting over 40 yrs the need to "quick load" a flint hasn't happened. Possibly some types of rapid wing shooting {trap or skeet} might require this, but I doubt it. First off, selective knapping is a faster "fix" than replacing the flint so I don't need "preloaded" flints. In a normal day of small game or deer hunting, I find more than enough time to either knapp or replace a flint. My hunting is a past time during which I leave behind the present day "hurry scurry" and don't feel the need to emulate "modern day impatience" by speed loading anything. By the way....I bought a large piece of very supple, thick suede leather from Tandy many years ago and it's been the perfect mat'l for clamping flints....Fred
 
I have a hard time thinking of a reason for quick change flints when hunting, I make sure I don't use a flint with a lot of shots on it, I save those for practice.I keep hearing about Pauls closet test but was not there when he came out.
 
A new comer unfamiliar with the MLF, who sees an "articles" section, can mistakenly assume that the articles posted there are MLF endorsed positions, and nothing could be further from the truth as nothing that gets posted there is vetted.

Glad he asked his questions so he could get correct answers from multiple people in the general membership with hands on experience and knowledge about traditional leather flint wraps.
 
I have never needed a quick change of flint in a hunting situation. The only change in the field, so to speak, I have had to do was during a parade, where my gun club was participating. We were firing off blank charges from your guns, and I looked down to find a large, U-shaped HOLE in the edge of my flint. There had apparently been a hidden "vug"( a deposit of foreign matter within a rock) in the flint, which broke free when the flint struck the frizzen on the prior shot.

I had my flint wallet in my hunthing pouch, so I simply:1.) used my flinter's tool to loose the cock screw,2.) backed the screw out,3.) removed the broken flint and its lead wrap from the jaws, 4.)removed the lead wrap from the flint,5.) put the broken flint in the pouch,6.) pulled out my flint wallet,7.) removed a new flint,8.) put the flint wrap around the new flint,9.) set the cock at half cock, 10.)put the flint and flint wrap in the jaws,11.) held the flint in place while hand turning the cock screw down,12.) then used my flinter's tool to tighten the screw down to hold the flint. I 13.) checked the flint to make sure it didn't strike the barrel, or the bottom of the flash pan, then 14.)checked it for the distance to the closed frizzen, and 15.)for squaring. Then I 16.)tightened the screw down harder.

With the gun still empty, I 17.)dropped the hammer 5 times, to set the flint into the lead. Then 18.)tightened the cock screw again, about 1/8 turn. I 19.)checked it again for alignment with the frizzen face, then 20.)used the heel of the frizzen to knapp the flint by holding the frizzen open with my right thumb- outside edge- cocking the hammer, and then firing the hammer so it struck the frizzen at the heel at a steep angle. That knocked off a thin "spawl", on the underside of the flint edge, leaving a nice, sharp, square to the frizzen edge to use for the rest of the parade. I 21.)put the wallet back in my pouch, 22.)the flinter's tool, hanging from a thong also went back into the pouch, and I was ready to load and fire again.

Several club members came up to watch me do this while walking, because, like the rest of us, they had never tried to change a flint other than at a loading bench at the club range, or at home. I was as amazed as they were that I was able to do all that while walking fast enough to keep pace with the rest of the club. The gun was carried cradled in my right arm the whole time.

In the woods, hunting, I would expect to be standing still while changing a flint. But, you could obviously have this problem arise during a Seneca Run or Hunter's Walk competition, and have to do much the same as I did.

I have been shooting regularly since 1979, so worrying about changing a flint in the field is Not a High Priority in my daily life. Like others here, I tend to put a new flint in the gun when going deer hunting, and use the slightly used ones on the Range.

I can't think of any reason to go deer hunting, considering the limited time I have to do that, and the limited number of deer I can take, without putting my gun in top shape. That includes, obviously, using a new, sharp flint. :hatsoff:
 
Just have to watch here that you don't get to stirring the pot as it will get to stinking on certain issues. Otherwise goods fellows here. For what its worth my Blue Ridge came with a lead wrap. :thumbsup: Dilly
 
I keep a fitted/tested spare flint with wrap in the patch box along with my cleaning jag, a few cleaning patches and my knapping rod...I also carry 6-7 flints in my ball bag with wraps along with about 20 extra lead balls...
 
I carry a couple of spare flints and leather wrap in a similar "Flint Wallet" such as the one Roundball has in his pic.Just in case I get "Into" a Herd of Whitetails and have to fight my way out. :hmm: :grin:
Somewhere on the web once I read that a guy had Glued his leather onto his spare flints with apoxy.Pretty good Idea I'd say.In saying that I haven't ever found myself in much of a frenzy trying to change a flint.....If I had one shatter on a nice buck,the frenzy would be there for sure! :wink:
Flintwallet001.jpg
 
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