Out at the range a few weeks ago I pulled a stuck ball with no problem. Tonight I tried to pull another ball, and never managed to get it out. I twisted and twisted and it never felt like it screwed in. I kept pulling it out and found small bits of lead stuck in the screw, but couldn't get the ball out despite trying for a good 10 minutes. Is there a technique to this as far as how much pressure and what it should feel like?
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Ball pulling help
- Thread starter CWC
- Start date
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Well, I've done it a couple of times and it worked just fine.
I try to put a lot of downward force on the rod from the start and turn the rod as little as possible to get a start into the ball without chewing out any small bits of lead like you mentioned. It works for me.
It's best to use a good brass cleaning rod that you can get a good grip on easier. If you use a wooden ramrod you stand a chance of twisting the tip off the rod, and that don't help matters none.
I try to put a lot of downward force on the rod from the start and turn the rod as little as possible to get a start into the ball without chewing out any small bits of lead like you mentioned. It works for me.
It's best to use a good brass cleaning rod that you can get a good grip on easier. If you use a wooden ramrod you stand a chance of twisting the tip off the rod, and that don't help matters none.
I have had to do it a few times also :shocked2: What has worked for me in the past when I had a hard time getting the screw started is to
1. make sure the screw threads are clean with no junk in them so they can bite good
2. If your rod is long enough and heavy enough hold it and smack it into the ball with a decent amount of force- Not to much or you will deform a cone into the ball that will not allow you to get the screw started. I have also set the puller against the ball and turned the rod while wacking it with the ball starter a couple of times until it grabbed.
3. Once you get it screwed in and it is hard to pull try putting some cleaning solution down the barrell to lube it like a stuck patch.
4. In all honesty if it is an option the easiest thing to do is sift some 4f into the vent by tapping it until no more will go in as long as you know the ball is all the way down so you do not get an air space and creat a blockage with the ball. If it is a percussion unscrew the nipple and put the 4f in that way. This will allow you to shoot the ball out of the barell. 20 or so grains will get it done generally.
Hope this helps.
Digger
1. make sure the screw threads are clean with no junk in them so they can bite good
2. If your rod is long enough and heavy enough hold it and smack it into the ball with a decent amount of force- Not to much or you will deform a cone into the ball that will not allow you to get the screw started. I have also set the puller against the ball and turned the rod while wacking it with the ball starter a couple of times until it grabbed.
3. Once you get it screwed in and it is hard to pull try putting some cleaning solution down the barrell to lube it like a stuck patch.
4. In all honesty if it is an option the easiest thing to do is sift some 4f into the vent by tapping it until no more will go in as long as you know the ball is all the way down so you do not get an air space and creat a blockage with the ball. If it is a percussion unscrew the nipple and put the 4f in that way. This will allow you to shoot the ball out of the barell. 20 or so grains will get it done generally.
Hope this helps.
Digger
Blizzard of '93
Cannon
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it don't take 20 grs., 3-4 will do it. I know, I've 'dry balled' twice. :cursing:
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i had one in my bess one time ( the fisrt time i 'dry balled') i spent about 2-3 hours tring to get that thing out, albiet most of the time was building a holder for a wood screw. i had used the 'clamp end' of a broken air riviter without the jaws, a large wood screw and a short rod of brass. this thing screwed onto the ramrod,
i am sill amazed about after i had spent the time to make the tool i hadent tested the size to see if it would fit in the bore. it just fit, so much so that it centered on the ball dead square. after convincing the girlfriend to hold onto the gun and i onto the rod we got'her out.
i am sill amazed about after i had spent the time to make the tool i hadent tested the size to see if it would fit in the bore. it just fit, so much so that it centered on the ball dead square. after convincing the girlfriend to hold onto the gun and i onto the rod we got'her out.
Mad Professor
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All of the above suggestions are right on.
In addition to having the threads clean, make sure the puller itself is well made, has decent threads to start with, and is designed for the caliber gun you are using. A puller for a 45-50 will drift off to the side a bit if you're trying to bite into a 54-58. This can cuase a poor "bite" and result in pulling out nothing but shards of lead: be sure the puller is well centered before you start to twist.
Another important piece of equipment to compliment the stout cleaning rod is a handle that will allow you twist the rod and give you enough grip to pull the ball. I've forgot this a few times which resulted in me shooting out a stuck jag/ramrod with the "pinch of powder method" decribed above.
In addition to having the threads clean, make sure the puller itself is well made, has decent threads to start with, and is designed for the caliber gun you are using. A puller for a 45-50 will drift off to the side a bit if you're trying to bite into a 54-58. This can cuase a poor "bite" and result in pulling out nothing but shards of lead: be sure the puller is well centered before you start to twist.
Another important piece of equipment to compliment the stout cleaning rod is a handle that will allow you twist the rod and give you enough grip to pull the ball. I've forgot this a few times which resulted in me shooting out a stuck jag/ramrod with the "pinch of powder method" decribed above.
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well see, at the range i had shot three shots for the day, the start of the bloodyday. it was a good thing it was the blackpowder day, were in there with everyones ball puller. :rotf: but that large bore was the problem so it walked all over place. with all this pulling and pullers i didnt use and lube for removal i guess i had enough bite with my tool on the ball.
All good advice. As an expert dry baller (!) I also suggest that SOME sort of liquid, whether water, lube, spray goos, etc, down the bore and to sit for a few minutes (to soak the patch) before pulling will be very helpful. Good smoke, ron in FL
boondocker
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We have had a few dry ballers at the shoots and we poked powder into the touch hole and lauched them that way. Its enough to get them out ussually. Boon
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when i had ramed the ball the touch hole was blocked. i ramed it right down. one of the other flinters had 4f primming and said use this, then we had found out the position of the ball. :cursing: oh well, another day
powder jack
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The first time I dry balled I tried to use a screw type ball puller and stripped the hole out in the ball 'til the screw would'nt grip the ball. I removed the touch hole liner and (carefully) drilled a 1/16 inch hole a little over half way through the side of the ball, then I put a piece of copper wire (shorter than the depth of the hole) in it and the puller did its job. I was sweating bullets. I am smart enough to allow for my stupidity, I got a co2 discharger and dont leave home without it and an extra cartridge.
powder jack said:
I think that's exactly what I did when I tried it. Well, luckily I got another chance today. :grin: The one I stripped out was one I dry balled on purpose to check the loading pressure of a new patch/ball combo. When I got to the range today I pulled the touch hole liner and stuffed some powder behind it. Blew it out of the barrel with no problem. Later in the day I accidentaly dry-balled one. I tried the puller on this one, and had no problem. I think I hadn't been starting with enough pressure to seat the screw. Thanks for all the help!
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