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dakota tim said:
Black Hand said:
Lard, Bear oil, Olive oil, mutton tallow and a selection of other natural and less fragrant alternatives.

Ballistol smells like a cross between rotting fish and sweaty locker room to me. Won't go near it....

I've had trouble describing the smell. One day my daughter walked into the room and said "That smells like cow butt!" I think she pegged it!
Interesting observation.
Begs the question: How does she know how a cow butt smells...? :grin: :wink: :grin: :wink:
 
Scota4570 said:
Fluid film is a great lube. Lanoilin has an extremely high film strength and is very slick. I use it on lock guts and it works great, it stay put, and does not run into the wood. Fluid Film also make a good resizing lube. A little goes a long way for that use.

I have not tried it as a patch lube. I would think it would would work well. It is non petrolium. So maybe about like mink or neatsfoot oil?
:hatsoff: ....If you're serious about protection....Fluid film does an excellent job. You can lay it on heavy for long term ....or wipe it on for normal use...
 
Ballistol smells like anise and butt. If it wasn't such a good product, I wouldn't use it.

WD 40 works fine. It may not be a rust preventive, which it isn't, but it gets rid of water, which is a rust promoter.
 
WD-40 works just fine here in AZ with our 5-15% humidity. If ya sweat under yer shade tree perhaps not?

The smells of WD-40 and Hoppes also stimulate my memory glands :grin:

WD -40 may not have been developed as rust prevention but per the several posts here it WORKS as one (depending on whether or not your shade works as designed) :idunno:
 
i use lennox cutting oil for moose milk and dry patch lube. WD40 for storage if i`m shooting more than once a week, and G96 for longer term. everything is in G96 right now.....
 
Eggwelder,
Which Lenox product are you using..??
A quick search reveals they offer several products labelled "cutting oil". I enjoy finding alternatives, especially those that don't cost $17.00 per pint. :thumbsup:
Thanks.
 
Scota4570 said:
Fluid film is a great lube. Lanoilin has an extremely high film strength and is very slick.

Be careful with selecting your patch lube because it is quite possible to have a patch lube that is too slick. When this happens, your accuracy suffers. When a patch lube is too slick, the ball/patch combo starts to move down the bore before the maximum breach pressure of your load is reached. The pressure when it starts to move is not consistent and this variation in breach pressure translates to inconsistent MVs which, in turn, result in inaccuracy. Check what Dutch Schoultz has to say about the slickness of patch lubes and why he recommends his "dry patch" system.
 
There is nothing spectacular about my Dry Patch Lube System.

Any lubricating material that is water soluble or even alcohol soluble should work as well. I came up with old style water soluble oil used in machine shops and when that bcame more difficult to secure a good rifleman, Lawrence of Gastonia , North Carolina pointed out that Ballistol, used in exactly the same way worked equally well
What I am pleased about is the method I came up with for regulating how much lubricant was left in the patching strips so you could figure out how much resistance your rifle preferred.
I was surprised to learn this aspect of patch lubrication while experimenting to find a way to prevent vertical strings of hits on target..

Weighing out the lead balls to prevent flyers was simple logic.Dutch Schoultz
 
Billinpatti,
I am too weak eyed to go through my book.
Is it true that nowhere in the book to I describe my 99.9999% Waterless Rifle Cleaning method?. I know it's on my web ite bt a subscriber says it'sNOT in the book
Could you check that out for me?

Dutch Schoultz
 
It must be me but I don't like the smell of WD40, unless they've changed it recently. Breakfree does have a distinctive odor. I have an old metal fishing box which I've kept a spray bottle of Breakfree in for many years and I could find it in the dark. What I've used with success is Birchwood Casey Sheath, now called Barricade, swabbed or wiped on with a patch, followed by RIG on a shearling wool RIG Rag. Barricade has a scent, also, but not so bad if you don't hose the gun down, as I've seen some do. Won't affect wood finishes, either. RIG is old school but still works. I recently tried Ballistol and it's OK but I find it can make a gun slippery if you get it on your hand.
 
Patocazador said:
Some stinky things are actually pleasant-smelling depending on what you associate the smell with.

Hoppe's #9 has a strong smell but it is pleasant to me because it's what I smelled growing up when any guns were involved.

:td:

I always wanted to make Hoppes #9 aftershave, the smell of a REAL MAN!! :grin:
 
Yes, It's really hard to be humble when you're perfect in even way////

So many of you persist in the Hot Soap Water cleaning method its no big dear with the Hawken type Tip-in barrels which can be removedin a blink, But I always wondered about those beautiful long rifles that are pinned in place. Do you use Hot Soap water with that long barrel or do you dissemble the whole thing?

Perfect as I am I seem to have neglected including my Dang near waterless rifle cleaning method from my book
It's still on my web site included in a tale of romance as I wanted to hurry from the range to attend o my main squeeze )is that the term?) and stunned on a way to clean a Black Powder rifle barrel without risking the Hot Soapy water damaging the finish of your beautiful Kentucy rifle.
If I continue to live I will be adding all that to the EBook plus a followup rendition of Your Flyers AreProbably Your Fault


For the exciting story of my Discovery of a faster way to clean your rifle while still at the range go to the Tips section ofmy way out of date web site at

www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy .com

There might be some other things there I may missed as well.


Dutch Not so Perfect After all
 
But I always wondered about those beautiful long rifles that are pinned in place. Do you use Hot Soap water with that long barrel or do you dissemble the whole thing?

You certainly can leave it in place. You can use the dump and pour method...although it works best on larger calibers and smoothbores.

Cleaning is an action that ends in a result, not a product or substance.
Whenever possible I clean between shots....since there is only one shot's worth of fouling, cleaning is very quick and easy....and your gun will never have more than on shot's worth of fouling to clean....

Back when I shot Pyrodex, I might go 50 or more shots without cleaning....and then had a heck of a time getting it clean...

Patent breeches also benefit from having water pumped through them....
 
colorado clyde said:
G96...it smells like a gun oil should and attracts the ladies.... :grin:

Clyde,

Is that for Colorado ladies only, or will it work for Oklahoma ladies also?

We have an old saying here....Oklahoma: Where the men are men and the women are too :haha:
 
I can't add to what's already been said about the smell, but I got a quick and hard warning from the boss lady years ago about using it in the house anymore!!!
 

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