Barber pole stripe on a ramrod.

[ronaldrothb49]

Considering the stress put on a ramrod in loading the last thing I would want to do is damaging the wood by burning it. I did one around 40 years ago by painting it with Potassium Permanganate. Based on what I was told years ago by John Schippers this is something that started at Friendship in the late 50's. For those who have an original John also did a lot of work on originals and he stated that the most common item missing on originals he worked on was the ramrod was missing.

 

[sturmkatze]

Some like it. Some don’t. Do what you like and what makes you happy.

 

[John May]

The only thing I've ever done to a ramrod was "bone" it with some boiled linseed oil and an old cow rib bone. I was told it made it stiffer and less likely to break. Now, however, I predominantly use a glass fibre range rod and leave the ramrod on the rifle. The only exception is my Brown Bess which uses a long piece of hardwood dowel. Again, the metal rod never leaves the gun!

 

[oldwood]

I know a guy that made a late percussion half stock. He striped his r/r with masking tape and a plumber's torch. Striped rods are most often seen on late period r/r's..

 

[totonap]

On my T C flinter, I just wrapped Cannon fuse around the ram rod and lit it. Done, still have to this day, and still looks good

 

[LME]

I know a guy that made a late percussion half stock. He striped his r/r with masking tape and a plumber's torch. Striped rods are most often seen on late period r/r's..

That is how I striped my ram rod and arrows. I wouldn't use masking tape. I would use a good grade electricians tape. 3m or the kind miners use. The cheap tape burns to easily. It only take a light brush with a propane torch to get nice spirals.

 

[stikshooter]

Considering the stress put on a ramrod in loading the last thing I would want to do is damaging the wood by burning it. I did one around 40 years ago by painting it with Potassium Permanganate. Based on what I was told years ago by John Schippers this is something that started at Friendship in the late 50's. For those who have an original John also did a lot of work on originals and he stated that the most common item missing on originals he worked on was the ramrod was missing.

I always heard that was how hardening a point on an arrow/spear happens ,works for me/Ed

 

[tenngun]

Used properly a rod is under little stress. Should one load without a short starter the initial push can put a lot of stress at the tip wood joint. After that one should use short strokes not letting the rod bend.
Stress comes from reaching too high, leaving room for the rod to bow in the middle

 

[Shiloh]

I was told once that it tempered the wood. In my mind I was going yeah right. The guy told me to use a cotton cord soaked in kerosene. Never did it as I don’t care for the look.

 

[longcruise]

I've had two different antique original rifles that have had this done to the ramrods. I don't know the how or the why though. The stripes on both were painted on.

I always wonder about features on originals. One ne er knows when a ramrod was striped or replaced or when a patchbox or grease hole was added.

I'm ok with the striped look regardless of it's provenance.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

Anyone know how it was done?

I'm going to start a video series for this forum demonstrating how 'I' do various building and inletting task. I do know 1000 builders have 1000 ways to do the same task, however, I will demonstrate what has worked for me for over 50 years. Perhaps my series will help some of the younger builders with issues they will run into when they start building. I'll start with striping a ramrod. Be available in about a week. Semper Fi.

 

[longcruise]

Perhaps my series will help some of the younger builders with issues they will run into when they start building

I suspect it will benefit some of us older guys as well!

 

[EN]

I heard that it was done to carbonize the wood and make it stronger. Of course not setting fire to it until it breaks but just a bit. Maybe if the wood did not have straight grain this process might help.

 

[Mad L]

Wood burning is often done to 'harden' wood, perhaps in old days they did it to ramrod to take some of the 'whip' out of the thin rod and also found it decorative.
The Japanese use wood burning to 'preserve' and water proof. Back in my younger days of youth and practiced karate they told us of "making wood strong and even stronger then steel" by wood burning techniques, supposedly the Ninja were very good at this. BUT the type of wood used will dictate the final product.

Just a couple things that come to mind as to "Why".

And didn't some Native American tribes burn stripe their arrow shafts too?

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

And didn't some Native American tribes burn stripe their arrow shafts too?

Ya' know, I did read about Native Americans burn striping their arrows to harden the shaft. It was believed the burn striping would keep the shaft straight and not warp with age. Perhaps this was the same idea with burn striping a ramrod. Semper Fi.

 

[longcruise]

I use heat in straightening arrow shafts. They tend to stay straight better that way.

 

[LME]

I suspect it will benefit some of us older guys as well!

It really doesn't matter whether you are young or old no one knows it all. When I was younger I thought I knew it all but as I aged I found out I didn't! LOL!

 

[beardedhorse]

Colonial Rifle Smith, Was curious where you read about burn striping Native American arrows? Heating wood can plasticize the lignin to help stiffen it. Pressure by "boning" to compress the cellulose fibers of wood will stiffen it too. Heat with grease is used when straightening an arrow shaft and can be used on the isolated weaker crook of arrows and ramrods, never in a useless spiral pattern. The grease penetrates the fibers to deepen the heat penetration and helps prevent scorching the surface as well.
There is archaeological evidence of the existence of paired grooved stone blocks possibly for heating and straightening arrow shafts. Some coarser grained blocks were used for sanding the shaft to a uniform diameter. These technologies for arrow straightening can be applied to ramrods as well. Some tool and axe handle manufacturers advertised "flame tempered hickory or ash handles" as a selling ploy.
In my study and replication of Native American arrows there were many Plains style arrows with cut or indented and often painted "lightening" or lightning grooves on the shaft. Some straight and wavy. From experience they do little to help keep them straight. Cut grooves are future sites for splinters. Arguments on actual origin and function of the grooves but some theorize they were for magic or decoration.
Soaking a hickory ramrod or buggy whips in coal oil or kersosene was to make them pliable and less prone to breakage. One author suggested the slower rate of twist on the decorative spiral on the rod echoed the twist in the rifling of the barrel. So long ago when I read it would be a chore to find. Maybe from Turner Kirkland's Dixie catalog. I would soak only after and not before flame striping.
Fire hardening the point on a survival spear is better done over coals and not charring over flames which weakens it. Of the many methods, potassium permanganate staining, leather dye staining, burning exposed wood with torch between protected masking or burning with a nitrated string, I find they serve more of a decorative function than to protect or strengthen the hickory ramrod. Doesn't seem to harm the rod if not overly aggressive with the surface charring.