Barrel Inletting

[Finnwolf]

Hello,
I'm working on inletting a swampled barrel on a lancaster pre-carve (my first build). I'm using inlet black, a couple of small chisels and a scraper. I inlet a couple pistols many years back but I don't remember it being like this. This stock has a lot of curl and it's tough to cut. I'm doing as much sharpening as I am scraping.

I'm going slow but my fear is that I'll go too far or break into the ramrod channel. Can any of you experienced builders post pictures of how the channel inlet should look when it is finished? Any experienced words of wisdom?
Finnwolf

 

[mikee51848]

Who did you buy this kit from? I thought kits all came with barrel channels pre-inleted, at least as far as I can see.

 

[SAJones]

Understand your problem: that's why my first swamp barrelled rifle was a kit w/ precarved stock. As to your concern, you apparently have already drilled the ramrod hole. That's usually done after the barrel is inlet when starting w/ a true blank. So, w/ the rr hole already drilled, one fellow I know drills small holes through the barrel channel to the rr hole, runs a ramrod in,& uses a depth gauge to determine where he's at. I would suggest using the area where the pins/wedges would go should you do this.

Yeah, I have a stone right by the stock when I'm carving maple. Have a couple good (expensive) chisels that don't need sharpening as often as cheaper ones, but even so, the Maple takes an edge off fast & I like to remove only the wood fibers that don't fit.

 

[rich pierce]

With a swamped barrel and the stock precarved and maybe the ramrod channel already cut and the hole drilled, you have to be careful. #1 thing to worry about is the springiness of the barrel and stock. Do not try to get the inletting so tight that you have to pound the barrel in and pry it out. Otherwise things get out of whack in a hurry. This is one reason I don't do precarves. I like a solid peice of wood to inlet a barrel into, so I can go at it with mallet and chisel and not worry. Then after the barrel is in the way i want it, I can safely lay out the ramrod channel, etc.

 

[hawk]

Finnwolf, usin' good hard curly maple will make you an expert with a sharpenin' stone. I got cocky and made a full stock out a birdseye maple for my .45 T.C. One thrid carvin' two thirds sharpenin'. took all year, and alot of nerve medicine!

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Re: Barrel Inletting

The Scary Sharp system is not a joke, it is the most efficient sharpening method I have tried yet, and it is cheap, cheap, off the shelf at Wally World or any auto parts store,

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=scary sharp system&btnG=Google Search

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It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees! Emiliano Zapata 1879-1919

 

[Trina]

Finnwolf, This is kind of off topic, but I would warn you to check and make sure your ramrod channel has been drilled long enough and your ramrod fits as is should.. I bought a precarve, Isaac Haines, built the gun and put it all together only to find out that the ramrod channel was about 4 inches to short good luck with your project, there is nothing like shooting a gun you built the first time... ::

 

[Finnwolf]

Thanks All, My dilemma is really knowing when it's done. The barrel was so tight it snapped into the channel. I also had to move the barrel back 2/10ths to get the spot where the touch hole is going to be in the middle of the pan. I've loosened it up a little now by painting the barrel with black and scraping the black spots off the channel. Done this 4 or 5 times now but I need advice on what to look for to know when it is done.
Anyone have a photo of what the black in the channel looks like when it's right (or describe what it looks like) so that I don't go too far.
Thanks, Finn

 

[LSU TIGER]

One thing to look for is how much of the barrel's side flat is exposed when the barrel is clamped in the stock. Usually, 1/2 of the flat exposed is good, but there are other schools where more exposed barrel is called for, like Lehigh. You're going about it right. Slow and sure.

 

[Finnwolf]

That's why I'm thinking I'm close to being done - the middle flats are now half exposed. I thought the channel would be mostly black when it is right but I still have intermittent black spots here and there. That's why I was hoping someone has a picture or description.
Thanks,
Finn

 

[Mike Brooks]

Don't get to carried away with a perfect fit. Many originals that had octagon swamped barrels had barrel channel inlets that are ROUND!
The old timers didn't get too excited about that particular step of construction.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Don't get to carried away with a perfect fit. Many originals that had octagon swamped barrels had barrel channel inlets that are ROUND!
The old timers didn't get too excited about that particular step of construction.

Mike is offering some of the best advice here, and he has the background and expertise from which he speaks.

 

[Finnwolf]

Thanks to all for the help and advice. :thumbsup:
Finnwolf

 

[Zonie]

IMO, at this stage of the game, the barrel should actually be a nice, easy slip fit with no interference or tight spots at all.
In fact, it should just drop in place with no gaps showing.

When you get to applying the finish to the wood, you will find the oil (or whatever) will cause the wood to swell slightly.
As the finished barrel channel wood swells, it will become tighter on the barrel.
Also, if your like me, you will have that barrel in and out of the barrel channel at least 30 times before the stock is ready for it's final finish. (Leave the barrel in the wood when your not working on it to prevent the wood from warping).
You don't want it to be tight when your going to install and remove the barrel a lot of times because there is always the chanch of cracking the wood if it's too tight.
:imo: