Barrel rust.

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Thank you all for your great information at first I thought it was me. I know it’s far fetched but I am of the type that holds onto things forever I like cool stuff and by far my flintlocks are my favorite. I have the good brushes that you can push and pull I think I ordered them directly from proshot. They sell a few that are muzzle loader specific; unfortunately not in the smaller 32, 36, and 40 sizes. So my flintlocks require a little more attention is fine I wouldn’t unload them just because I don’t exercise them all. I have my go to 45 and 50. 😂 I wish I could get my daughter interested a bit more. My son likes them but well you know; if I’m using the word correctly he prefers “unmentionables”. Anyway appreciate all the positive feedback!
 
I about ruined a couple of guns when I first put my gunsafe in the garage - not from my choice of oil, etc, but from all the moisture. Once I put the biggest heating rod I could find the problems just about went away. I'm not saying the choice of lubricant isn't important, but in most of the country, garage safes absolutely need one or two heating rods!
 
Would be interesting to see what Bobby Hoyt would say is the best preventative since he repairs the damage from here.
 
That is a nice test.

This test does include olive oil, which is sometimes suggested.

http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html
Funny thing I use Eezox, Ballistol and Lehigh Valley . Eezox works fine but leaves a hard to remove black residue over time , Ballistol and Lehigh both work well although I use Lehigh Valley as a cleaner rather than a preservative . Ballistol tends to have an affinity for steel .If you clean with a Ballistol water mix the Ballistol will adhere to the steel while the water dries off . Ballistol is a mix of several different chemicals , and can be home brewed , More DIY lube: Make your own Ballistol I have a couple of quarts of Ballistol made from a recipe used by the Dutch Army in WW2 . I was given it by an old guy who was one of the stay behind soldiers in the Dutch East Indies Islands and fought the Japanese for 4 years behind enemy lines .It works as well as the factory made stuff . The Oleic acid in Ballistol is from Olive oil
Now I prefer a sticky non running lanolin based long term preservative because it will stay where it is put
 
Here in New Zealand we are required by law to keep our firearms locked up securely in a safe or strong room , No hanging a gun over the fireplace unless it is locked to the wall and cant be seen by any one peeping in the window . I store my firearms in a safe , each one in a silicone gun sock or blanket bag to help prevent earthquakes shaking them against each other and I store them with the muzzle down on a rubber mat . The reason they are stored muzzle down is that any lube or rust preventing oil will eventually run down the barrel and if stored muzzle up will run into the wood and potentially rot the wood and may be gum up the action . I have seen hundreds of fine firearms which have been stored muzzle up or on their sides and have been ruined or damaged by oil . Old English guns in cases attract moisture and can end up stuck to the case lining.
My best advise is if you live in a damp or humid climate , use a good preservative and check your guns regularly , if you use a safe invest in a heating rod.
 
"I store my firearms in a safe , each one in a silicone gun sock or blanket bag to help prevent earthquakes shaking them against each other and I store them with the muzzle down on a rubber mat ."

That is a new one, learned something.
 
DON'T use Evaporust, unless you don't like the bluing. Found out the hard way. I carefully read the bottle and it didn't even mention that it would remove gun bluing, as far as I could tell. Had to go on their web site to learn that little tidbit.
 
I have used petroleum and non petroleum,water basedBallistol( really good)and anything I used on my car or bike( Harley) it all generally did the job.keep in mind ,inspect more often,the longer you store the heavier the viscosity- kerosene,Kroil,atf, gun oil /weapons lube,motor oil ,gear oil( stinks!) lithium GP grease,wheel grease,cosmoline,waxes.Thinner stuff is thin and so it tends to stay runny and run off over time,thicker sticks better ,if you put a barrier between steel and oxygen(air or water) it won’t rust and brown is just color change in the lube.OH,that’s in a perfect world with a perfect coating of perfect uncontaminated lube ,oxygen is horrible stuff but we really need it! That’s why we have weapons inspections.
I hav a Mauser I built years ago with a heavy Shilen sportier bbl,great shooter,however I’m not so old that I shoot a lot of Military ( U.S.) .30 gov.(30/06) and I did ,we I did the usual and ran a patch through, a month later I was horrified to look at my bbl and THEN remembered about reading about using military 30/06,(for those who don’t know it’s all corrosive) I should have known but forgot,I worked on the barrel lapping it polishing it,JB ing it and got it to shine again but if I leave it to long it will even after hundreds of cleanings still not be as nice as new,it still shoots though,luckily and will put them in 1” or less at 100 yds.I first thought I would need a new bbl though. Ugly lesson.
 
I have used evaporust on the same rifle,however knowing that rust and blue are the same stuff I coated the barrel with Johnson’s paste wax and carefully filled it with a syringe after plugging it.
 
Eezox or Barricade for rust prevention on my firearms of any kind. Don’t ever use “bore butter” which is complete garbage for this purpose, though it seems to be a pretty good bullet lube. About 25 years ago TC replaced a badly pitted barrel of mine that I had “seasoned” and “preserved” with this stuff. The tech I spoke with when I called basically admitted TC knew it was a very poor preventative.
 
Not that bad but it's brown! Rifles fired, cleaned, oiled and put away for a few years.
Happened to pull them out, ran a patch down the barrel and got "brown".
Both barrels are new or next to it.
Any ideas on how to get the "brown" out?
Rifling still sharp but it looks to be brown between the lands.
Both 50s percussions. (?)
Got after both with an oiled patch and wire bore brush.
Got one in 32 that looks like new so it didn't rust.
Maybe check barrels MORE OFTEN?? :oops:
Get some Gunzilla bore cleaner and protect ant and wipe the bore with it after water cleaning and WD-40 patching to get the water out before coating the bore with the Gunzilla.
 
I have found that wiping the bore with Hoppes #9 after cleaning the usual way (water, water ,water, drying by wiping with dry patches) and then wiping the bore dry and applying gun oil prevents storage rust. But I live in a dry climate, your mileage may vary. The Hoppes seems to remove the last vestiges of anything corrosive in the bore. Learned this from cleaning my BP unmentionable guns.
 

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