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I got a surprise the other day, I have always trusted barricade to protect my barrels. After months of rain and the purchase of a new Teslong bore scope I found surface rust in every one of my B/P barrels, back to 30wt motor oil or Rig gun grease for me.

As a footnote; I store my rifles in a gun safe out in a small utility room open to the garage, not in my climate controlled house. I have a safe heater rod in my safe that keeps the safe warm but apparently not enough.
You know, the temperature might be changing enough inside that safe to pass the dew point twice a day, unless the climate inside the safe is controlled by a thermostat inside it. Spyder Robotics sells the perfect thermostatically controlled systems for small spaces like that, that are powered with 110 volts. That would keep the air temperature in there within about 1° at all times so that dew could not precipitate. I doubt that safe is it all airtight and so let's in water vapor laden air as the air inside the safe expands and contracts as the temperature changes. Maybe that's something for you to think about. It could be a solution to that problem.
 
I got a surprise the other day, I have always trusted barricade to protect my barrels. After months of rain and the purchase of a new Teslong bore scope I found surface rust in every one of my B/P barrels, back to 30wt motor oil or Rig gun grease for me.

As a footnote; I store my rifles in a gun safe out in a small utility room open to the garage, not in my climate controlled house. I have a safe heater rod in my safe that keeps the safe warm but apparently not enough.

I got a surprise the other day, I have always trusted barricade to protect my barrels. After months of rain and the purchase of a new Teslong bore scope I found surface rust in every one of my B/P barrels, back to 30wt motor oil or Rig gun grease for me.

As a footnote; I store my rifles in a gun safe out in a small utility room open to the garage, not in my climate controlled house. I have a safe heater rod in my safe that keeps the safe warm but apparently not enough.
I was wrong about passing the dew point twice a day. Dew falls as the temperature is falling. That would only happen once a day inside your safe, unless your heating rod is already thermostatically controlled.
 
I checked out customer reviews and the problems are the sprayer clogging and it tends to not do well with plastic. Not knocking the product, EVERYONE seems to LIKE IT for PREVENTING RUST.

No not EVERYONE trusts Barricade, not me for sure I fell for the myth once and after I finally got rid of the rust, after firing the muzzleloader I clean it with very hot soapy water (a dab of Dawn) rinse with clean hot water, bu connecting a lengh of plastic tubing to the nipple nd having the end in the water bucket pumping in and out with a patched range rod, air dry muzzle down, and then run a wet patch of Hoppes #9 , check the next day and run another wet patch of Hoppes#9. The bore looks better after every range session. I live in West Texas, Cross Timbers area and we hace fairly low atmosphere humidity which helps a lot.
 
“Yep, quick alcohol patch for me too”
Sorry guys I have to ask... for those of you that swab with alcohol to get any oil out. Do you use rubbing alcohol on a patch ?

I've always used a simple dry patch to wipe out my barrels, never use alcohol or any other solvents to clean my BP barrels; its been hot water only; and dry swabbing out while the barrels still hot then a light Oil swab followed up again a few days later for over 4 decades now and nary a problem with rust. Treat your BP barrels the same way your grandmother did her frying skillet and you'll have no problems.
 
I've always used a simple dry patch to wipe out my barrels, never use alcohol or any other solvents to clean my BP barrels; its been hot water only; and dry swabbing out while the barrels still hot then a light Oil swab followed up again a few days later for over 4 decades now and nary a problem with rust. Treat your BP barrels the same way your grandmother did her frying skillet and you'll have no problems.



I, for one, must humbly differ with you concerning the "frying skillet" comparison. This was what T/C said of their Bore Butter. That thinking ruined many a barrel.
 
I, for one, must humbly differ with you concerning the "frying skillet" comparison. This was what T/C said of their Bore Butter. That thinking ruined many a barrel.

You misunderstood me, in mentioning a "frying skillet" no mention was made or implied ref using T/C Bore Butter.
"Light Oil" was what I texted, and I've never ruined any barrel using it over nearly 4 decades.
 
Living in Eastern Nebraska, we know what humidity is. I have never had an issue with Barricade. I clean with dish soap and water, thoroughly dry, and use it on all metal surfaces and have never had any problems with rust. Works so well on my MLs I began using it on my unmentionables also. That doesn't sound right does it? Also will not harm wood. Several years ago I began using it on my table saw, jointer, band saw and lathe ways to protect them in an unheated shop. No rust.
hanshi brought up a very good point in an earlier post about wiping the pan and frizzen. A necessity no matter what you are using for rust prevention.
 
I've used several different things as a rust preventative. I've been using Barricade for several years now, I decided to stick with Barricade (several other preventatives worked fine for me too) simply because it dries to a film and I can leave it in the bore when hunting and still have some rust protection without the worry of it fouling the powder or migrating into the fire channel.
I leave my rifle loaded for several weeks normally during hunting season, so if I don't get a shot I like having the rust protection still in the bore. When going to the range just to shoot I do strip it out of the bore first with denatured alcohol.
If I leave it in and then shoot I have noticed that it takes me a few more patches when drying the barrel to get a clean patch after bucket of water method vs. when I strip it out. So, I do find that leaving it in does effect how quickly I can get a clean patch to return during cleaning efforts, but it is fairly minimal.
 
I've always used a simple dry patch to wipe out my barrels, never use alcohol or any other solvents to clean my BP barrels; its been hot water only; and dry swabbing out while the barrels still hot then a light Oil swab followed up again a few days later for over 4 decades now and nary a problem with rust. Treat your BP barrels the same way your grandmother did her frying skillet and you'll have no problems.
Seasoning a frying pan is what your grandmother did to her frying skillet and cast iron pots and pans. Thinking that seasoning a muzzleloader will improve a muzzle loading barrel is just not true. That so called "seasoning" whether from liberal use of Bore Butter that T/C recommended and probably replaced more than a few "shot out" barrels under their lifetime warranty. "Seasoning" in a muzzle loading rifle barrel is simply a build up crust in the grooves of burnt grease and powder fouling that hasn't been cleaned from the barrel. If you are cleaning out all the fouling and burnt grease, then a coat of light oil is a good rust inhibiting protective coating that is not cooked onto the surface of your rifle barrel as Grandmother cooked the oils into the surface of her frying pan.
 
Seasoning a frying pan is what your grandmother did to her frying skillet and cast iron pots and pans. Thinking that seasoning a muzzleloader will improve a muzzle loading barrel is just not true. That so called "seasoning" whether from liberal use of Bore Butter that T/C recommended and probably replaced more than a few "shot out" barrels under their lifetime warranty. "Seasoning" in a muzzle loading rifle barrel is simply a build up crust in the grooves of burnt grease and powder fouling that hasn't been cleaned from the barrel. If you are cleaning out all the fouling and burnt grease, then a coat of light oil is a good rust inhibiting protective coating that is not cooked onto the surface of your rifle barrel as Grandmother cooked the oils into the surface of her frying pan.

My comment re Seasoning had nothing to do with improving the accuracy of a Muzzleloader, it was about preserving a Barrel from Rust.

As for your comment ""Seasoning" in a muzzle loading rifle barrel is simply a build up crust in the grooves of burnt grease and powder fouling that hasn't been cleaned from the barrel." Well no "seasoning" a Barrel is done when new and unfired, then maintained as required, using a light machine Oil when the Barrel is moderately heated. Are you aware that Steel in all its forms have minute "pores" for the want of a better term ? The point of the "seasoning" exercise is to get the Oil into those "pores" in an effort to seal them, understandably it also needs to be maintained.

I've owned and fired Black powder Muzzleloaders since the late 70's and learned to "season" my Barrels, and never over all those years have I experienced the Rust problems I read about on these forums.
Anyway please do as you will, all I'm trying to do is share some well proven valid information.
 
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@Coinneach, you are doing a fine job of preparing your rifles to be fired and maintaining them to prevent a buildup of rust. Not at all different from the lubrication procedures I follow. You can call it seasoning while I call it lubricating. The end result is the same. Prevention of rust in the bore.
 
@Coinneach, you are doing a fine job of preparing your rifles to be fired and maintaining them to prevent a buildup of rust. Not at all different from the lubrication procedures I follow. You can call it seasoning while I call it lubricating. The end result is the same. Prevention of rust in the bore.

Thank you sir, seems like we misunderstood each other, thats the problem with texting.
Maybe we should have an open live chat forum here from time to time.
 
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