Bent sprue slicer on mold

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Melnic

40 Cal.
Joined
Dec 2, 2013
Messages
289
Reaction score
30
OK,
New caster here. First mold is a .535 round ball.
Lee Mold. Ran my first 60 this morning before work.
But at about 50, the sprue had a bunch of flash on it, The slicer is bent I guess from holding it wrong while hitting with dowel. I ran the last 10 from must the bottom one.
How can I bend it back to be flush WITHOUT putting a warpy wavy shape to it?
BentSprueCutter_zps4d888a29.jpg
 
That's tuff,
I don't think there's any "advise" that can be offered because we don't know what tools or shop or skill set you have,, all you can do is try, there's no magic way to fix this.

That said;
Consider it much like myself and my first mold, I beat that poor thing to death. Hammered not only the sprue plate but the hinge pins.

It's all part of the learning curve, I had to learn finesse, thank goodness the lee molds are inexpensive.
 
You could try bending it down carefully while the mould is open. Not too much or you will tweak it like you mentioned. Also a think coat of hi temp oil on top of the mould and sprue plate will help prevent galling and the keep the lead from building up there. 2 cycle oil works well since it's made for high temp. Use it sparingly because you don't want it getting into the cavities. I usually apply with a Qtip.
 
As a first attempt I would try straightening it. Take a good look at it to determine the exact spot where the bend is and mark it. Remove it from the mold and place it in a vise with that bend line just above the vise jaws and begin to tap on it in the proper direction lightly at first, then check against a straight edge like a steel ruler. Continue tapping with ever so slightly increasing force and removing to check for flatness until you get the movement that you want. At that point give it a try. If it works you are good to go. If not get a flat diamond hone, new fine stone, or a cast iron drill press or table saw table or other machined flat surface or thick piece of glass covered with fine (400 grit or so)silicone carbide abrasive paper and lap it until it is flat. Good luck.

Tiswell
 
Necchi is correct in his assement.
But here is a thing to try if you are able - remove the plate and clamp the cutting portion of the plate in the jaws of a vise that has jaw protectors added so that you do not mar the plate -- with the screw hole attachment portion sticking out of the vise -- using a soft face mallet or other non-marring hammer GENTLY tap the screw hole attachment portion in the opposite direction of the bend -- check progress often. If that does not work then I would make a new thicker plate or order a replacement plate from Lee. Hope it works out for you :v .
 
necchi said:
tiswell said:
Remove it from the mold and place it in a vise,,
I don't remember ever being able to remove the screw from a Lee mold, vise or no vise. :idunno:

You can remove the plate. Yes they were made to not be removed once in place but with some work you can do it. Check and see maybe it isn't over tightened in the first place making it bow upwards.
 
I guess I was too slow with my answer -- but it seems some others said the same thing as I. The screw that holds the plate does come out but it does require a BIT of effort :thumbsup:
 
Necchi,
What am I missing? It looks like it is attached with a phillips screw. New sprue plates are available from Lee for $2. Does that not fit this mold?

Thanks, Tiswell
 
Necchi,
On the Lee site scroll down the left hand column to "parts". Then to Bullet casting, then to Black powder, then to Round Ball molds, then choose the size of the mold and a page of corresponding parts will open up.

Blessings, Tiswell
 
Screw came out very easily for me this morning when I removed the plate.

BTW, it is reverse threaded if you did not know this :)

I'll see if I can bend it back without warping. If not, order a new one and try over again.
I think the key to bending is to get the right point for the bend. Ive done that with hockey skate blades by finding the pivot point then taping 2 drill bits equidistant, then flipping over and then placing another in the center and tapping. Lets see if I can do that with this.

I was hitting with a dowel, I think I'll use my hands from now on so I can control it better.
 
I believe a review of the instructions that came with your mold is a good idea. Hitting the spruce cutter with a dowel is the correct way to cut. Hitting so the cutter slices is key.
I wouldn't try to use my hand as the entire mold is going to be very hot!!
 
Reverse threaded is good info. :) It's a shame I will forget about it before I need to use it. :( This is the way threads should be info and people getting along. :thumbsup:

Larry
 
I myself never strike a sprue cutter. I make a handle to fit mine so that I don't have to worry about bending them or knocking the mold out of alignment if I miss the cutter and hit one half of the mold. A handle can be easily made by cutting a slot into a piece of wood and fitting it over the sprue cutter and then drilling a 3/16 hole through the wood and cutter. Then a 10/32 screw will hold it in place. If anyone wants a more detailed plan I could take a photo and post it. :idunno:
 
"BTW, it is reverse threaded if you did not know this."

Melnic's observation is correct, at least for some of Lee Precision's new production molds. Why Lee did this is a mystery that few casters can fathom. :confused:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top