Best way to burnish brass PC

[chopperusa]

I am trying to be reasonably authentic and also learn to build correctly and my burnishing ends up with a wavy surface normally. I start with files to shape roughly, then use small jewlers files to achieve the disired detail and smooth finnish. And then i have been polishing with a couple grits of emery paper and finnishing will 400 grit. When possable i do use a hard backing for the emery paper to maintain the flatness. The problem occurs when i finnally use the burnishing tools the soft anealed brass developes these slight wavy patterns. I guess what i am asking is if the brass is too soft, or am i using excesive preasure with the burnishing tool?

 

[tg]

I think we often try to get things too "good" when compared to the originals, you may have what the builders of the past had in the end.

 

[chopperusa]

I guess some of the wavyness might deminnish with some wear from use? Some of the closeup pictures of early originall guns do show some tool marks on the inside of the triger bow and the exposed areas do apear to have a smoother finish but maybe this comes with use?

 

[paulvallandigham]

If you are burnishing the brass with a steel tool, such as the shank of a screwdriver, you are probably pushing so hard that you are creating the bumps. I am not sure why brass needs to be burnished. I burnish, or " bone " the wood of my stocks after staining and before the finish is rubbed in, but that is wood. Hard Wood burnishers work best, but steel tools can be used with care, and achieve similar results.

Use some fine grit emery paper( not cloth) on that brass guard to remove the " bumps" and then leave it alone. Over the years as you polish the brass after it discolors and corrodes, it will develop its own patina, and soft surface finish. It won't be as shiny as when you polished it with fine grits, or polishing compounds, but it will take on hat old time brass look that is elegant in its own right. Shiney brass is just that, Shiney brass. It looks good in a show case, or on a brass lamp, but you don't want all that shine in the field, nor need it for any other reason on a gun. Aim for a " Satin " finish, and you will be happier.

Just my $.02.

 

[tg]

That would be my guess, I have not handled very many originals but from what I have seen we set a different standard now, some of the more knowledgeable folks may add to this.

 

[Vaino]

I use various grits of emery paper ending w/ 400 all w/ a solid backing and a final light rub w/ 0000 stl wool. The brass is then dulled w/ cold blue which turns black and is selectively rubbed out leaving corners and recesses nearly untouched for an "antique" look. Granted our finishing is done to a higher degree than the "masters of yore" and this is due to customers looking at scratches, scrape facets, etc. and viewing them as "shoddy" workmanship. Until customers are "educated" as to the extent of the finish on original LRs which were mainly used for utilitarian purposes, most will insist on nearly "flawless" workmanship. I imagine that if the original builders had all the tools and aids that are available today, their products would have been more finely finished. Of course, then the subject of making a living vs hobby building arises and in the "olden days" I don't think there were very many amateurs building LRs. To today's amateur, hobby builder, and I'm one, the amount of hours is irrelevant and as we while away the hours, our "modern minds" insist on a very finely finished LR. Any ways, that's my take on the subject and could be taken w/ a grain of salt....Fred

 

[xxgrampa]

hi ho flehto,

know what you mean about educating the customer. a feind showed me his custom made flintlock. he was very proud of the barrel. he said it was conditioned to look 200yrs old. claimed it was pc correct..

thought to myself, 200 yrs ago, how many people went to the gunsmith and said, 'make me a gun with a barrel that looks 200 yrs old but with a stock that looks brand new with out a scratch..

now don't laugh, a lot of custom fl's are being made with aged metal. but, not too many age the wood. it all looks new and shiny. :shake:

..ttfn..grampa..

PS.. got a couple like that myself :redface: . don't know what i was thinking..

 

[chopperusa]

Has anyone tried or seen the result of using a burnishing tool on the actual barrel? I ask because i read somewhere that some original guns have such a smooth finnish to the metal and a even patena that the auther sugested that the surface appeared to be burnished! I have tried this on some small areas and i think this just might be a authentic way of finnishing the barrel.
The burnishing process on a smooth draw filed barrel actually goes pretty fast. I am using a actual nicholson or sommonds oval burnishing tool.