Best way to convert a CVA Mountain rifle?

[Travis Gregory]

What is the best way to convert a Cva Mtn rifle from percussion to flint? Should I remove the drum from the barrel or mill it off flat and re-drill and tap it for a vent liner? All suggestions appreciated.

 

[necchi]

The Best Way would be to leave it alone and buy another Flint set up barrel for the Rifle.
Contact
Deer Creek Products
765:525:6181
They have all the old Spanish made import parts you need and make barrels at their shop.
No Web site,, you need to call them

 

[necchi]

I've heard tell Folks have done it both ways.
But this might help understand what's going on before you try anything.

Then there's these from a member here awhile back;

But I still think a full barrel replacement is best. You could sell the perc barrel and get money to buy a flint barrel.
Do you have a Flint Lock?

 

[Travis Gregory]

I do not have a flintlock at this time.What I do have is 2 barrels for this particular rifle. I have a .45 and a .50 cal. As difficult as caps have been to find it has made me start to consider flint ignition. I live in an area where flint is laying around all over the ground but caps can only be found at Wal-Mart a month or two out of the year. Otherwise I have to order them in or drive at least and hour in any direction to find them.

 

[Birddog6]

So buy a thousand at a time & problem is solved. That is what I did when I shot percussion.

Keith Lisle

 

[Zonie]

I suppose you already know this but a flintlock uses real black powder.

None of the synthetic black powders work well in a flintlock, either for priming or for a main powder charge in the barrel.

Real black powder is often impossible to find at local stores and the Hazard Fee that must be paid for shipping ain't cheap either.

IMO, you should find out how easy it is to get real BP in your area before you start converting your gun.

 

[illuveatar]

I converted my CVA plainsman a few years ago and it worked great. I milled down the existing drum and put a new vent liner in. I used the THL-S4S from Track of the Wolf if memory serves. I used a bottom tap and tried to avoid leaving any exposed thread or gaps for powder residue to build up under the vent.

Get a new flint barrel if you've got money to burn or take the barrel to a gunsmith if you feel it's beyond your skill. I would guess a decent gunsmith would do it for around $50.

 

[Travis Gregory]

I already use real black powder and have for a while and I have a pretty good supply for now. I can get caps but would prefer to use flint so I dont have to rely on caps if they get harder to come by than they already are. It also happens that for the last 15yrs I have made my living as a gunsmith, but I have never converted a percussion rifle to flint. I just need to know what is the easiest and fastest way to do it and which method produces the best end result so that I can hopefully avoid some of the trial and error steps that may cost me a perfectly good barrel.

 

[necchi]

Well if that's the case,,
It doesn't make sense to me to cut threads into the stub of already cut threads.
The bottom line issue of the entire conversion, especially if one is a gunsmith is,
Are you willing to pass this conversion on in a sale to someone unaware of the conversion or trust that the purchaser will not abuse/exceed a safe charge for the rifle?
And/or,
Will you be comfortable with one of your Grandchildren shooting this conversion years from now, after your death?

I should say that the Pro's that currently make and install this type of breech,
Deer Creek,
Will not even sell you a replacement drum for an old CVA or Traditions Arms rifle that has had a drum removed.
You will get an adamant No! from them for liability issues.
:idunno:
Good luck, :v

 

[illuveatar]

Good point Necchi. I wouldn't make the conversion and sell it to someone without making sure they understand that the barrel is not stock. I generally use smaller than average charges anyway but I would shy away from putting a heavy load in my conversion.

 

[Warf51]

I have thoroughly investigated the possibility of this conversion myself. By the way,,,I know you Turkhunter and I have a good 45 CVA Mountain rifle myself.
The MR design with the Drum and the pre-chamber is not really gonna be optimum for a flinter.

You will have to buy a 148.00 L&R Flintlock to make this beast work plus, your ignition is not be as good as having the vent adjacent to main charge. The vent is gonna be behind the charge instead of to the side,,immediately adjacent. Leave it as is and build yourself a good flintlock rifle. Even if you do manage to convert it,,,,,,,your still gonna have a bunch of money in a low value rifle. Do not get me wrong! My MR shoots really good with PB's but,,at the end of the day I would rather have my money in better kit! :wink:

 

[mooman76]

I converted a CVA Kentucky rifle some time ago. I basically did like in the picture posed here and cut off a bolt to make the vent liner. The lock I bought was just a replacement lock in flint for that gun so it fit perfect. It worked but I didn't shoot it much so I don't know how good it was over the long run. So it can be done. Should you though? I would probably go with the others suggestions and put the money into a kit instead.

I don't have allot of flint experience like the others here. I used to shoot allot more and intended to get into flint more and still plan to when I get more time.

 

[Ed Pilkington]

Travis, I converted mine by cutting the drum, drilling a 1/4” vent liner from TOTW. They were so helpful.. countersunk the hole and everything fit perfectly. Had some trimming to do for a CVA Lock but it went in well and hasn’t failed to shoot and spark greatI did drill out the touch hole to 1/16th.

 

[Michigun Prepper]

Travis, I converted mine by cutting the drum, drilling a 1/4” vent liner from TOTW. They were so helpful.. countersunk the hole and everything fit perfectly. Had some trimming to do for a CVA Lock but it went in well and hasn’t failed to shoot and spark greatI did drill out the touch hole to 1/16th.

Ed pilkington answer the question best, all the other answers did not answer the direct question !!!

 

[necchi]

Ed pilkington answer the question best, all the other answers did not answer the direct question !!!

He didn't answer the question,
He posted what he did, and there's nothing wrong with that.
But, When making a conversion like that is against the manufacturers recommendations and voids all warranty of the rifle,
,there is no direct answer.
Full liability of the result is with the guy that does it.(period)

Are you this guy?

Are you willing to pass this conversion on in a sale to someone unaware of the conversion or trust that the purchaser will not abuse/exceed a safe charge for the rifle?
And/or,
Will you be comfortable with one of your Grandchildren shooting this conversion years from now, after your death?

If so, then I'd recommend searching for this same repeated topic in more recent years,,
This thread was started 10yrs ago.

 

[#BPBReloadingFFL]

I suppose you already know this but a flintlock uses real black powder.

None of the synthetic black powders work well in a flintlock, either for priming or for a main powder charge in the barrel.

Real black powder is often impossible to find at local stores and the Hazard Fee that must be paid for shipping ain't cheap either.

IMO, you should find out how easy it is to get real BP in your area before you start converting your gun.

Nah, prime with black powder and use triple 7 it'll work just fine.