Best way to secure a flint

[Alden]

Aren't lead flint wraps dangerous? Why don't you care about the environment, and children!? The children!

:_(

 

[Robert Egler]

Aren't lead flint wraps dangerous? Why don't you care about the environment, and children!? The children!

:_(

:rotf: :rotf:

 

[MJMarkey]

Just to put another chink in the armor. A while back (maybe a long while) I saw an ad for plastic wedge to place under the flint to change the angle of the flint. Never tried them and filed the info in one of my many unused brain cells.

But if someone wants to experiment some thin plastic like Tupperware may make an acceptable flint pad. Not very traditional.

Just a thought.

 

[Larry Pletcher]

I saw one at Friendship too. I'd guess it was an attempt to get an angle between bevel up and bevel down. I didn't think I needed it.
Regards,
Pletch

 

[dikman]

I can't quite see me raiding my wife's Tupperware cupboard - I like living too much!

 

[michael paul]

OK Folks, I'm going to use the leather method. Thanks for your input.

 

[Joe Ruley]

[/quote

I use only fine Corinthian leather.[/quote]

I was wondering Mr. Alden Sir,, Do you get the fine Corinthian leather from a 1978 Cordoba? :grin: No one else responded to that and I could not resist! Regards, Joe.

 

[jamesthomas]

Leather wrap all the time :thumbsup: .

 

[pargent]

Used to use both but I have now settled on just leather as the flints held in lead seam to come loose quicker catching you out with a fail to fire .

 

[Artificer]

I tried lead in the Brown Bess Carbine I competed with and a Charleville I once owned to do War of 1812. I was never satisfied with lead wraps and went back to leather. Only used leather in my flint rifle.

Most Besses I have worked on, both Italian and Japanese, worked best with leather flint wraps though some Jap Besses worked better with lead wraps.

Gus

 

[Wes/Tex]

[/quote

I use only fine Corinthian leather.

I was wondering Mr. Alden Sir,, Do you get the fine Corinthian leather from a 1978 Cordoba? :grin: No one else responded to that and I could not resist! Regards, Joe.
[/quote]
Either that or the hide of a nauga! :wink: :haha:

 

[dikman]

Mine came with a lead wrap (previous owner) and yes, it seemed to come loose fairly easily. I've changed to leather so I'll see how that goes. (I always knew that the old leather rigging gloves I kept would come in useful for something :grin: ).

 

[stinkyfeet]

In the jaws of the lock.. :rotf:

 

[don hepler]

I use leather, about like that used in a baseball glove. One of the secrets of keeping it positioned, other than what has already be mentioned, is to hand select flints. I carry a small hand make gage, and try to pick the ones that fit, width, length, and have nice consistent shapes. I know if you're ordering them, then it wouldn't be possible, but if you do have the opportunity, to hand select, it will make changing them out, and staying seated a lot easier.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Leather works fine. On my locks I follow the method used by English makers. Using a chisel graver and hammer, I stitch teeth into the top and bottom jaws much like the teeth on a wood rasp. That holds the leather wrapped flint very securely. I also file away any of those useless ridges that are cast into the jaws of cocks on some production locks.

dave

 

[eaglesnester]

Lots of shooters prefer leather. I found with my L&R lock sheet lead works best. Every gun is different and there are different strokes for different folks. Try both leather and sheet lead.

 

[gwalker]

A lot of good advice, with no resolution in sight. I've tried both and found leather worked best for me. One thought though - some have found that leather provides some cushioning to the flint while lead provides a more rigid hold on the flint that often results in the flint shattering or excessively flaking at times.