Having done P&V&ADC for decades, I’d agree with bigbore442001 that pre scouting for the right location is the single most important techy for calling kitties, and then setting up correctly at those locations based on where you think they’ll answer your call from when you do hunt it. Brush piles, over-grown washes or river bottoms, fence lines, old wells and deserted farms/ranches are just a few good starting places to look for sign. Normally, and I use that word with some reservations, they are slow to respond to calls - spot and stalk their way in with hang-ups common. Not uncommon for one to take ¾ hour coming in even though they are really not as smart as some people think they are. More often than not out here in the west anyway, a fox or coyote will come in first and spoil the stand if your location is not right "where they live". By being in the right place you might get a quicker response. I do use specific techniques for the cats (kitties & lions) and vary them as the stand and situation dictates. A bird distress with a higher pitched mouth call is my favorite for bobcats, with rodent squeaks next best. They both produce better than rabbit distress from my experience (and I won’t even own one of those electronic doodads). A feather or fluff hung from a handy branch upwind makes a good decoy to keep their focus off you when using mouth calls. So to me there is no need for a tree stand at all. I don’t use scent block or wear camo when I hunt traditional with ML’s (just wear my leathers), but as long as I have set up right, have the wind right and stay immobile they don’t know I’m there until the shot.
I did have to give 2 kitties a free pass last time out calling with the muzzleloaders though because I was actually after grey fox and didn't have any kitty tags. You'd think I would know better and be prepared for anything that comes in after all these years. :redface:
BTW, for the ultimate predator hunting rush, try calling in lions all traditional.