Bore Butter

[Jim Fitzgibbon]

How many of you guy's use TC Bore Butter.I have
been using it for about 6 months & really like
it.It seem to work really good in my cap & ball
revolvers, & pretty good over all in my front
loaders as well.

Whats your thoughts?
Fly :hmm:

 

[rdillion]

I use it in my cap and ball revolvers because I have a lot of it that I bought on sale. Have used it off and on for years in my rifles but it always seemed to leave a yellowish gunk in the bore that is really hard to get out. Now I just stick with Crisco or Track of the Wolfs mink oil. Haven't tried Hoppe's #9 yet but I read were some guys like it for target shooting. :thumbsup:

 

[Pete Gaimari]

Whats your thoughts?

Butter belongs on toast.

 

[ebiggs1]

I use it almost exclusively. I have tried every concoction these guys come up with and they work. They all work! But why go to a lot of unnecessary trouble when Bore Butter works as well and is so easy to get and use? When you get to the extremes I can see a use for some of the other lubes. Like very hot or very cold weather but than plain olive oil works well, too. Maybe a little bee's wax mixed in.

 

[David W.]

Whats your thoughts?

Butter belongs on toast.

Why ruin a good peice of toast?

 

[Zonie]

I've used Bore Butter for years and it works quite well as a patch lube.

It makes a very POOR rust protector though so don't believe the ad's that talk about protecting and "seasoning" your bore with it.
Use a good protector like Barricade.

I now use Stumpkillers Moose Juice for lubing patches. http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/203261/

I do still use Bore Butter for lubing my C&B pistol chambers but Crisco works as well and costs a whole lot less.

 

[Jim Fitzgibbon]

When very hot or really cold I stay home anyway.
Besides I like honey on toast.

Fly :blah:

 

[dckcrk]

I like everything but the price. I make it at home in different viscosities using beeswax and olive oil melted together in a double boiler.

1 to 1 Beeswax/Olive oil for lubed BPCR bullets

1 to 2 for pan lubed muzzle loader conicals

1 to 3 for patches, C&B, and greasing shotgun wads.This is about the TC consistency.

You can add yellow food coloring and wintergreen oil for the complete experience. Even refill your squeeze tubes while it is still molten.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Almost. Bore Butter has paraffin wax, not beeswax in it. Using Beeswax has the added advantage of enzymes that prevent bacterial growth( spoilage) of you lube.

There are USDA Agricultural Extension Offices in every county in this country. Call them, and find the nearest beekeeper to contact about getting beeswax. If he doesn't have to clean it, and you pick it up from him at his home, or hives, the charge will be next to nothing.

 

[Jim Fitzgibbon]

When your talking 1-to-1 or 1-to-3 & so on or
you talking by weight or volume?
Fly :idunno:

 

[dckcrk]

I use weight on the beeswax and fluid ounces on the olive oil. The specific gravity of either is close enough to have no practical effect. I usually just break a pound block of beeswax in half and add a 16.9 oz bottle of olive oil for the 1 to 2 mixture I use the most. Think cooking not chemistry. :grin:

 

[buzp]

I've tried it and it is an ok lube, but I really don't like the odor. I wonder If deer can smell it?

 

[trigrcreep]

I like the stuff,have been using some on a patch for swabbing in between shots I am still expirementing with lubes ,patches and my new rifle.After a good cleaningI have never seen rust in a barrel wiped with a bore butter patch-just my 2

 

[ebiggs1]

I doubt there is any paraffin in Bore Butter, or at least the Bore Butter that is available today.

A biodegradable all natural lubricant which contains no petroleum-based oil or additives. Reacts differently (chemically) to the combustion of black powder, producing far less “tar like” fouling.

My thoughts about paraffin is it comes from petroleum-based material. If you want to say it can “season” a barrel or it is a good rust preventive, I agree, it ain't. But no paraffin?
I asked TC what exactly was in it and did not get an answer.

 

[hanshi]

It's okay in revolvers, about like Crisco. Some was given to me a few years ago and I'll use that or another grease for my first load of the day when afield. I think it smells okay.

It is not a good rust preventative and makes powder fouling gummy. Unless you wipe between shots it becomes almost impossible to seat a ball after three or four rounds at most. It is a safe patch lube to use if you leave your gun loaded during the season because it won't cause rust. Shortening is cheaper and just as good for a lube. After the first shot I always use Hoppes on the patches.

 

[S.Kenton]

It works well for me. I use it to prevent rust in the barrel. BUT..it seems I'm one of the few on here that has used it for this purpose and been successful at it.When the barrel is dry after cleaning, I put a large amount of Butter on a clean and dry patch and run it up and down a few times. I re-coat the same patch once again with Butter and repeat the procedure.It seems to work well for me. I keep my house at a low humidity level, all year around, I'm sure that helps..I also use T/C bore butter all over the outside of the barrel as well. I have carefully observed that no rust has ever formed inside or outside of the barrel. HOWEVER it does leave a weird dark yellow film when it dries. I have experimented with REM OIL, Ballistol and RIG UNIVERSAL GUN GREASE. All work good..cept the RIG, I guess ya have to REALLY clean the bore out with carb cleaner, brake cleaner or alcohol before firing. I have a rather large amount of T/C bore butter ..thats the main reason I use it more than the others. Don't be afraid to experiment.

 

[Rusty Spur 82]

After a life time,I am still experimenting with various lubes.I started out with bore butter and that has the longest run of any of them.The only problem I have with it,is the smell.Oh it smells good but for hunting deer,I leave the stuff at home.The deer have way to much advantage as it is.I do like the mink oil from TOTW though and am using that more as a lube.I get more shots with the mink oil before I have to clean between shots.Bore butter is easy to come by and a lot of guys use it for that reason.I haven't heard any complaints from my fellow shooters who use it.

 

[roundball]

Fortunately there are endless alternatives to cleaning and lubing and I have no interest in getting anyone to use bore butter...however, I will add some clarification to some claims made in this thread, based on my personal hands on experiences.
Natural Lube 1000 has been a fine lube for me going on 20 years now...all my precut patches are prelubed with it, regardless if they carry the brand name Oxyoke (who makes them for everybody else anyway) or the brand name T/C, Traditions, CVA, Remington, etc.

It’s the only lube I've ever used for hunting and if anybody is worried about deer smelling it they need to seriously rethink their understanding of scent as it relates to hunting.
Whatever air currents might carry the scent of Natural Lube 1000 to a deer's nose...(and who knows if it would even bother them in the first place)...will also be carrying all your other human smells right along with it...your scent, gun oil, blackpowder, the smell of gasoline if you filled up on your way, the smell of bacon & eggs / any cooking smells if you ate along the way, etc, etc, etc.
So any remote possibility that a hint of wintergreen smell might reach a deer is completely irrelevant...the deer is already long gone from all the other human smells it’s getting on that breeze.

No one can disagree that successful cleaning and lubing have 3 requirements to prevent rust and/or corrosion...the bores must be:
1) 100% cleaned
2) 100% dried
3) 100% lubed
If #1 & #2 are done correctly, then any lube which insulates the bore walls from the air which contains moisture, will do.

And Natural Lube 1000 works just fine as a bore lube..."if it’s used correctly".
Not being a liquid, it does not 'run' or 'migrate' around like WD40 or some oils will so its not forgiving in that sense...it has to be heavily plastered up and down the bore to ensure every square inch of bore wall surface gets coated...then dry patched out when time to use the ML again.

Since I shoot (and clean & lube) a lot year round, I actually got tired of all the extra attention I gave to bore butter to ensure my bores were well protected...and on the basis that WD40 had been a 100% reliable rust preventive for a lifetime accumulation of Remingtons, Marlins, S&Ws for 30-40 years, I switched to that for my ML bores.
After they're 100% clean and dry I just run a sloppy, dripping wet WD40 patch up and down a few times and store the ML muzzle down...simple, faster, and no question that it works.

At any rate, the good news there are lots of choices for folks to clean and lube as they see fit...but there's nothing wrong with NL1000 as a product...it works just fine if used correctly.

 

[Black Hand]

I used it exclusively as a patch lube and a bore protector for better than 10 years with no problems. Never had a problem with rust in the bore.

 

[Huntin_Dawg1215]

I have used bore butter for years as a lube and a protector, it works.