brake cleaner or alcohol

[Dphar]

How about both :haha: .
Much like paul said it depends on how it's stored. I use 3 different storage/clean-up lubes. LPS 3 for long term storage. Hoppes #9 for just a week or two, and borebutter for over night or just a few days.
If it's just over night or a few day's at a rondy' I'll use the BB and then I just run a couple dry patches down an back.
If I use the Hoppes then I'll use brake cleaner on a few patches to get the oil out and 91% Iso or denatured alchohol on a few apatches just to prove it's clean,(aka: white patch comes out white!).
If it's long term and I use LPS 3, I'll spray the bore and breach well with brake cleaner and several patches with the stuff followed by alky patches to be sure it's clean.
Paricular care should be taken in the breech/nipple area as this is where the channel is smallest and most suseptible to fowling. By all means ALL oil's need to be removed as bp and oil become a tar like substance after firing.
I alway's clean with warm soapy water and clean warm water to flush, after a few patches to sop up water, I rinse with 91% iso or denatured to remove water at the miro level and dry patches then lube.
Does this sound like too much? Not really, the hole process take 5 maybe 10 minutes.

Hoppe's #9 is not a preservative in any sense of the word.

Dan

 

[Joel/Calgary]

Link
I got thiner lacquer,
ballistol link above for you who don't have it.

That link's to the US distributor. If you change the ".com" to ".ca", you'll get to Peter Smith Trading in Toronto, who are the Canadian distributor.

lacker thinner yes but took a long time to evaporate and let residue.
90% rubbing alcohol took everything off and dried of quickly

That must be a different lacquer thinner - essentially pure methanol should evaporate at least as fast as isopropanol with 10% water.

Joel

 

[canuck4570]

thank you Joel for the .ca
as for the lacker thinner, will be using 90% alcohol got some at the drug store yesterday......

 

[Mike Brooks]

thank you Joel for the .ca
as for the lacker thinner, will be using 90% alcohol got some at the drug store yesterday......

As I have stated before, you're wasting your time with all of this stuff. Keep it simple and just use a dry patch if you think you need to. Your problem is your patch/ball combo, not residual oil in the barrel.

 

[tg]

"As I have stated before, you're wasting your time with all of this stuff. Keep it simple and just use a dry patch if you think you need to. Your problem is your patch/ball combo, not residual oil in the barrel"

That is all I find I need to remove any residual bore oil, but I don't lay it on thick when done cleaning just a quick up&down with a lightly oiled rag, I think I am using Outers gun oil now...Hey Mike, maybe if you use a whole page to tell them it will get the idea through better :grin:

 

[Mike Brooks]

"As I have stated before, you're wasting your time with all of this stuff. Keep it simple and just use a dry patch if you think you need to. Your problem is your patch/ball combo, not residual oil in the barrel"

That is all I find I need to remove any residual bore oil, but I don't lay it on thick when done cleaning just a quick up&down with a lightly oiled rag, I think I am using Outers gun oil now...Hey Mike, maybe if you use a whole page to tell them it will get the idea through better :grin:

Hey, I just like beating my head against the wall, it feels good...... :haha:

 

[flinthead]

One oil I will not use on guns is Break Free. If you leave it on for a few months it dries and leaves a waxy residue. It does prevent rust but it is quite a chore to clean up before going shooting again.

 

[sproulman]

i use NAPA SOLUBLE GRINDING OIL #765-1525 for 6 bucks a bottle at napa instead of the ballistol which is hard to get locally.

4 oz of napa oil
1 oz of mos
7 oz of iso prpryl
16 oz water

 

[sproulman]

i stopped using HOT WATER ,no more flash rust to deal with,i use warm water.

 

[Joel/Calgary]

As I have stated before, you're wasting your time with all of this stuff. Keep it simple and just use a dry patch if you think you need to. Your problem is your patch/ball combo, not residual oil in the barrel.

In general, I agree with KISS, but the interstices of a Pedersoli patent breech are a pain to patch dry/clean. The Manton-style patent breeches on my double (cutaways with ~.35" chambers) are rather easier. That said, I tend to use the methanol more as antifreeze (and maybe additional solvent) in otherwise water-based solutions.

Regards,
Joel

 

[lonehunter]

Hey, I just like beating my head against the wall, it feels good......
But only when you stop :rotf: :rotf: :v

 

[Mossyrock]

Every once in a while, you run into one of "those" rifles that rust no matter what you try. My Sharon Hawken is like that. I have tried several different supposed bore preservatives/rust preventors and no matter what, patches come out tinged in orange. I usually clean with a Ballistol/water mixture, but just picked up some Seven Rivers BP Solvent to try. So, after I get the bore dry after cleaning, what do you suggest? At the moment, I am trying the "slather with Bore Butter" method to see if THAT works. In the past I have tried pure Ballistol, WD-40, bear grease, mutton tallow and sweet (olive) oil. All resulted to post-cleaning rust. Suggestions?

 

[necchi]

Hoppe's #9 is not a preservative in any sense of the word.
Dan

OOP's, I guess Hoppes #9 makes alot of stuff this is the product I use to "preserve" stuff. http://www.hoppes.com/products/lubricating_oil.html

I don't bother using their Black Powder product, I have soap and water at home :wink: