Brass Black on Brass Furniture Question

[Enfield58]

I really like that look. I may do the same on my TC Hawken. Did you remove the brass parts first or did you apply while it was installed on the rifle?

Yes, I had to remove the furniture. I also used paint stripper to remove the lacquer or varnish that was on the brass. I applied the paint stripper and let it set for about 15 minutes then used 000 steel wool with a light touch to remove the coating.

The brass parts were rinsed with water and thoroughly dried before applying the brass black.

I experimented with Super Blue, Aluminum Black and Brass Black on the inside portion of the toe plate to see what look best. It ultimately came down to using the Brass Black.

 

[johnwm]

That looks outstanding! I always like the look of naturally-aged brass on a ML; my own efforts at getting a "distressed" finish on brass parts left me in greater distress than the brass. I may have to try your technique. Thanks!

 

[Enfield58]

That looks outstanding! I always like the look of naturally-aged brass on a ML; my own efforts at getting a "distressed" finish on brass parts left me in greater distress than the brass. I may have to try your technique. Thanks!

For me, the revelation that the brass was coated with a lacquer or varnish was a breakthrough.

 

[GREENSWLDE]

To Black Brass..Parts must be well polished with finest grit cloth. Make up 1tenth solution of Sharp water in a pot deep enough to cover. Fill another Crock Joule with Hydosulphide of Amonia, enough to cover. Clean the parts with Lime water and dry. First drench parts in Hydrosulphide, it smells like Rotten Eggs. A drench in Sharp water and return to H S then back to S W. Repete until denisity of Black is found. Around 5 or 6 dips are usually enough to give a dense Black. This method works to the same on Copper well polished.This method was used to colour Copper Powder flasks and is from Family Company Journals from early 19th century..Records go back until 1756/1786 to Black Brass Chain. I have Blacked several Copper Powder Flasks with this scheme and it lasts well (30 odd years)..
Very OLD DOG 21334.

 

[GREENSWLDE]

Our resident Metalergist Zonie will be able to translate the modern terminology I feel sure. Sharp water was, I think dilute Hydochloric acid. We only referred to it as Acky and it came in Glass Globe vessels packed in Straw in metal cages and handled Very gently. OLD DOG.We also drew silver wire down to 0.008" for the Emdroiderary trade.I still have acouple of reels. O.D.

 

[Zonie]

Our resident Metalergist Zonie will be able to translate the modern terminology I feel sure. Sharp water was, I think dilute Hydochloric acid. We only referred to it as Acky and it came in Glass Globe vessels packed in Straw in metal cages and handled Very gently. OLD DOG.We also drew silver wire down to 0.008" for the Emdroiderary trade.I still have acouple of reels. O.D.

Sorry but when it comes to saying what something like "sharp water" is, I rely on sources like the Dixie Gun Catalog and they don't say anything about it.

 

[Whitworth]

Here's a way to get a nice natural looking patina on brass using household ammonia. I make a vapor chamber from a large plastic jug cut in two. Then I suspend a new shiny brass flask or brass whatever on a string or wire run thru the lid of the jug. Add enough ammonia to cover the bottom of the jug and then place the top part (with the suspended brass whatever) back on, taping it in place. You can watch the brass turn "mustard" before your very eyes while you monitor the amount the of "patina" you want. When you get it where you want remove the brass and rinse with water. Buff to taste.

 

[Zonie]

The ammonia method of darkening or blacking brass does work but it has a potential problem for any parts that are under stress.
The process can cause the part to crack. This isn't really a problem with something like a flat side-plate or a toe-plate but if for instance, you have to bend a trigger guard to get it to fit into the mortise in the stock, that produces stress in it. Over time, these stresses can cause a crack in the trigger guard and when I say crack, I'm talking about the part breaking.

If anyone wants to try the ammonia treatment remember. The idea is to let the ammonia vapors do the work. DO NOT submerge the part in the solution.

 

[thompson50]

I have other blackpowder guns and haven't bothered to polish the brass furniture. I doesn't matter to me whether or not the brass is kept looking new.

I just want to keep the firearm free of rust and fully functional.

Sometime ago, I got a Pedersoli Frontier rifle (not the deluxe version - just plain walnut). I also ordered a brass ramrod for it but much prefer the hickory addition over that one.

On a whim, I got some brass black and applied it to the brass ramrod. It looks different, to say the least. I am somewhat pleased with the way the brass surface now looks.

I'm thinking about darkening the brass furniture on the Frontier rifle and wonder what everyone else's opinion is.

It's true that the brass could darken over time but, the blackening would be uneven.

I'm thinking that the even blackening would look nicer if I used the solution to do it.

I know this is sort of like asking; "do these buckskins make me look fat?"

Yet, what are your opinions?

I blackened all the brass on my Hawken and I think it looks great. It’s been a couple years and I haven’t had to touch it up.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I never blackened the brass on my Derringer replica. Nor did I brown the barrel.

I let time apply the patina. I think it turned out just fine. Well, I could criticize the craftsmanship in some places.