Brass tacks and other bling

[Flying B]

Tacks and an old spoon on this belt pistol.

 

[Herb]

Notchy Bob, Jim Beckwourth did own this rifle, and his signature is engraved on the bottom of the barrel. Jeff Hengesbaugh owns this rifle, as the article you referenced shows. I handled, measured and photographed it in December and am tasked with making a bench copy of it. We are still working out the details. Here are Jeff and Carney Pace with the rifle, then me.

 

[Notchy Bob]

Notchy Bob, Jim Beckwourth did own this rifle, and his signature is engraved on the bottom of the barrel. Jeff Hengesbaugh owns this rifle, as the article you referenced shows. I handled, measured and photographed it in December and am tasked with making a bench copy of it. We are still working out the details. Here are Jeff and Carney Pace with the rifle, then me.

View attachment 115653 View attachment 115654View attachment 115655View attachment 115656

Herb,

Thank you for posting! I have read what I could find about this rifle, online and in that one-page piece in Muzzleloader magazine a couple of years ago. I also corresponded some with Mr. Hengesbaugh, as I had read that he was to publish a book about the Beckwourth rifle, although I don't know the current status of that project.

I don't doubt the rifle's authenticity. I understand that James Beckwourth did get some education as a child, and should have been fully capable of producing a signature, and Mr. Hengesbaugh's forensic study seemed very comprehensive.

I can't think of anyone better suited to creating a bench copy of that rifle than yourself! I hope you'll write it up for publication.

Best regards,

Notchy Bob

 

[flashpoint]

To any of the tack drivers out there. Do any of you drill a starting hole then drive the tack or do you just hammer them in? Thanks.

 

[JohnL]

My attempt; I drilled small holes first then gently tapped them in.

 

[Jimi The Weed]

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Nice Rifle and what a great Box!

 

[Notchy Bob]

To any of the tack drivers out there. Do any of you drill a starting hole then drive the tack or do you just hammer them in? Thanks.

It has been a long time since I have done any decorative tack work, but based on past experience I would absolutely drill slightly undersized pilot holes, especially in a hard maple stock. Really, just a few thousandths undersized would do it. A set of wire gauge bits will come in handy here. Pilot holes may be especially important if you want to tack the forearm of the stock, where the wood is quite thin and fragile. You see a lot of old Indian guns with splits in this area.

In addition, I would plot the full-sized design out on cardboard and push the tacks into the cardboard to get a realistic idea of how it will look, and make adjustments as necessary. Then put painter's masking tape on your stock, lay out the design and mark and drill through the tape. Peel off the tape and put in your tacks. This may seem like a lot of work, but tacks should be considered permanent, and you really want to get it right the first time.

Good luck!

Notchy Bob

 

[Zutt-man]

.54 cal of my dad’s. At the time, I only had a .40 and needed a larger muzzleloader for this elk hunt. He put tacks on for every big game animal he harvested with that gun, but refused to add one for this elk, because it was not his kill.

 

[flashpoint]

My attempt; I drilled small holes first then gently tapped them in.

They look great John, very precise. Thanks FP

 

[flashpoint]

It has been a long time since I have done any decorative tack work, but based on past experience I would absolutely drill slightly undersized pilot holes, especially in a hard maple stock. Really, just a few thousandths undersized would do it. A set of wire gauge bits will come in handy here. Pilot holes may be especially important if you want to tack the forearm of the stock, where the wood is quite thin and fragile. You see a lot of old Indian guns with splits in this area.

In addition, I would plot the full-sized design out on cardboard and push the tacks into the cardboard to get a realistic idea of how it will look, and make adjustments as necessary. Then put painter's masking tape on your stock, lay out the design and mark and drill through the tape. Peel off the tape and put in your tacks. This may seem like a lot of work, but tacks should be considered permanent, and you really want to get it right the first time.

Good luck!

Notchy Bob

Thanks Notchy Bob. Never in a million years would I have though of all that. Great advice

 

[tenngun]

Op was ‘other bling’. This is on my TFC

 

[TreeMan]

Op was ‘other bling’. This is on my TFCView attachment 116227View attachment 116228

Ohhhh I like that. Where did you acquire that stock bling?

 

[tenngun]

Ohhhh I like that. Where did you acquire that stock bling?

Townsend’s used to carry ‘trade silver’ I believe I got it from him, when it’s was J Townsend and son. Or it may have been from Pat Turney when he had La Pelletteare, got it late seventies or early eighties

 

[Kansas Kid]

Ok I’ll play. LH 62cal French Fusil.

 

[JohnL]

I have a CURLY & ERMA made gun in flint lock 12 bore, smooth. I am told that they only made 10 of them in 12 gauge. it has a sitting fox on the barrel & on the side plate. it is a keeper! I bought it from a reenactor who only ever shot blanks through it. at events & parades. sense I have owned it 12+ years, it has never seen a blank load, in it and it never will.

Toot, can you post photos of this gun? I’ve never seen one.

 

[toot]

Since this thread has segued between brass tacks and Curly Gostomski trade guns, these pictures from the web may not be too far out of line:

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Full length view. Note the brass tacks on the buttstock and ahead of the lock.

View attachment 46543

Close-up of the lock, breech, and trigger.

These pictures came from the Midland Agrarian Blogspot. This blog appears to have been inactive since about 2014, but is still up for viewing. The focus is on farming, traditional lifeways (including shooting), and some politics. The blogger (I don't see his name right off the bat) said he bought this gun off an auction site. It was apparently in pretty bad shape, but he managed to take it apart, clean it up, and get it shooting again. He did not specify the barrel length, but by calculation, if we assume the LOP is between 13-1/2" and 14", the barrel would likely be around 33" - 34" long. He did say this gun is 12 gauge. There may have been others, but Mr. Gostomski was the only builder I know of who produced 12 gauge Northwest guns, and we know he used the Pedersoli LOTT locks. I wish we had more pictures and more detail, but we don't. He didn't show or comment on any marks inside the lock plate.

I've seen photos of at least one of Mr. Gostomski's early guns which had the oversized triggerguard but a stubby little standard-sized trigger. It just didn't look right. This gun has a proper trigger. It appears to have a simple wood screw ahead of the triggerguard bow, rather than the "upside down" tang bolt generally associated with original British Northwest guns. The Gostomski guns were discussed at some length in an earlier thread on this forum, if anybody is interested: Curly Gostomski .62 Fowler Value

Anyway, here is another tacked gun to add to the gallery.

Notchy Bob

he had a lot of problems with the ITALIAN, LOTT, locks & went with the SITTING FOX LOCK, I don't know who made them? both my barrel & lock has them on them. I got mine used, did he put the brass tacks on them?

 

[toot]

Toot, can you post photos of this gun? I’ve never seen one.

I wish I could, but my piece of poop lap top, a BANG & OLUFSEN will not let me do it. sorry.

 

[toot]

View attachment 116113.54 cal of my dad’s. At the time, I only had a .40 and needed a larger muzzleloader for this elk hunt. He put tacks on for every big game animal he harvested with that gun, but refused to add one for this elk, because it was not his kill.

OHHHH! don't feel that way. sounds like sour grapes?

 

[Zutt-man]

OHHHH! don't feel that way. sounds like sour grapes?

I think he was jealous for sure