Building ME a NW Trade Gun ! :)

[Rob M.]

the 2 brass pipes I found are 3/8", I assume I trisect the space between the muzzle and entry and place them so there is equal space between the muzzle and center of the first pipe, that's equal to the space between the centers of the 2 pipes, and equal to the space between the entry and center of the bottom pipe? ( I think I confused myself)

The placement of that front pipe first ....then do your measuring . In this pic ... Where I'm pointing the pen is where the front sight blade will go , I dont want the sight too close to the lug , the lug is the pin you see there , then just behind all that is the first pipe ....give them all a bit of space and relieve the wood up front , it gives room to get your hand in there to get at your ramrod , I like that ....once all that is established and the front pipe is marked then measure to the ramrod hole in forearm and place your pipe or pipes equally .....easy peazy ....until you ha e to figure out where your barrel lugs go ! LOL ! but that'd for later.

 

[TDM]

Just another quick thanks @Rob M. for putting out such great information.

 

[Khufu]

The placement of that front pipe first ....then do your measuring . In this pic ... Where I'm pointing the pen is where the front sight blade will go , I dont want the sight too close to the lug , the lug is the pin you der there , then just behind all that is the first pipe ....give them all a bit of space and it gives room to get your hand in there to get st your ramrod , I loved me that ....once all that is established and the front pipe is marked then measure to the ramrod hole in forearm and place your pipe or pipes equally .....easy peazy ....until you ha e to figure out where your barrel lugs go ! LOL ! but that'd for later.

that barrel lug and front sight are pretty darn close, do you use a heat sink to keep from melting the lug off when you solder the front sight?

 

[Rob M.]

Just another quick thanks @Rob M. for putting out such great information.

Thanks bud , I appreciate that much . I sure hope I can be of some help to folks . I remember what it was like when I just didn't have a clue what to do .

 

[Rob M.]

that barrel lug and front sight are pretty darn close, do you use a heat sink to keep from melting the lug off when you solder the front sight?

Smart ! No , I wire the lug on tight , the lug is drilled by the time I solder the front blade on ... then I slowly start heating the barrel and front blade. I've done this so many timed I think I dont need to wire the lug on anymore but ....I sure hope I dont get that cocky and try it one day , ...it'd be a b!+$# trying to line that lug back up and re soldering it back on ! WOOH ! LOL !

 

[Khufu]

Smart ! No , I wire the lug on tight , the lug is drilled by the time I solder the front blade on ... then I slowly start heating the barrel and front blade. I've done this so many timed I think I dont need to wire the lug on anymore but ....I sure hope I dont get that cocky and try it one day , ...it'd be a b!+$# trying to line that lug back up and re soldering it back on ! WOOH ! LOL !

question, what if I were to braise the lugs, then soldering the sight would not be an issue, in fact I could silver solder the lugs on, you would even be able to hot blue the barrel?

 

[Rob M.]

question, what if I were to braise the lugs, then soldering the sight would not be an issue, in fact I could silver solder the lugs on, you would even be able to hot blue the barrel?

Sorry , I've never hot blued a barrel so I dont know bud ... I use plum brown and heat the barrel with a torch but , obviously , not terribly hot. Just under sizzle ....

 

[Khufu]

would braising the lugs be a good idea, they would melt off at a MUCH higher temp than solder?

 

[Rob M.]

would braising the lugs be a good idea, they would melt off at a MUCH higher temp than solder?

I'm sorry bud , I have no experience with braising so I'd just be guessing ....

 

[Bnewberry]

Never done it myself (on a gun, I have braised a bike frame repair and soldered other things).

Braising might be hotter than you need for a gun barrel.

You can get solder with different melting points. Use a higher melting point solder on the lugs then use a lower melting point solder on the sight. Then you wouldn’t have to worry about losing a lug.

 

[WALT53]

Just another quick thanks @Rob M. for putting out such great information.

Just about time to pull up a seat with a coffee and watch a movie wouldn’t you say.im ready but not sure about the rest of yous.walt

 

[bud in pa]

I have used Brownell's Hi Force 44 for sights lugs etc. extremely strong and a fairly low melting point. all you need is the flux and a propane torch.

 

[Khufu]

I have a MAP/Oxygen torch with a real fine jewelers tip. I have been able to braise up brass with it, have a 1851 replica steel frame I converted to a suppository gun and it had the shoulder stock cut in the grip frame. I was worried that the AFT would scream constructive intent so rather than replace it, I braised it up and filed it flat and polished it and you cant tell and the grips still fit perfect. if I didn't puddle up the brass grip frame, I think a steel barrel is safe, remember these barrels are not high carbon steel, so they won't temper like tool steel.

 

[Fatboyz]

Smart ! No , I wire the lug on tight , the lug is drilled by the time I solder the front blade on ... then I slowly start heating the barrel and front blade. I've done this so many timed I think I dont need to wire the lug on anymore but ....I sure hope I dont get that cocky and try it one day , ...it'd be a b!+$# trying to line that lug back up and re soldering it back on ! WOOH ! LOL !

What do you use for solder for the lugs and site? Do you use a regular propane torch?

 

[Rob M.]

What do you use for solder for the lugs and site? Do you use a regular propane torch?

I use 50/50 solder , its getting harder to find , and paste flux , to solder everything to the barrel ....yeah , and a propane torch

 

[martin9]

Brazing is too hot for a barrel IMO. I've brazed the bow and grip rail together on forged triggerguards and the steel is glowing bright orange before the brass starts to flow.

 

[martin9]

Love the tapered ramrod....that's one of those little touches that really makes a difference in the finished gun. I normally get lazy and just put a tip on.

 

[Fatboyz]

I use 50/50 solder , its getting harder to find , and paste flux , to solder everything to the barrel ....yeah , and a propane torch

Wll see what I can find locally. I have just plain old solder.

 

[Rob M.]

Wll see what I can find locally. I have just plain old solder.

50/50 is about as plain and old as you can get , LOL . You might want to try an experiment with what you got . I've always stayed with 50/50 , no core flux stuff just plain solder just because I soldered lanterns with it for over 20 yrs. so I know it well . Unfortunately I can't advise you on any other type because I just font know . I would think any solder would be good and strong but I've never tried any other . If you could solder some practices pieces and see youd be getting some knowledge . I remember my first solder joint practices and then beating the lugs sideways with tools to see how strong they were , LOL ...never had one move but did deform the lug . Best of luck

 

[Rob M.]

Love the tapered ramrod....that's one of those little touches that really makes a difference in the finished gun. I normally get lazy and just put a tip on.

Exactly ...you dont have to taper the ramrod I just really like the looks and I think it may be more authentic esp. for the early ones but we really dont know . Its pretty doubtful that any of the ramrods on trade guns are the original but ....who knows .