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Can confirm - most over-ball lube goes away

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Very interesting post, Spence. I seem to have read that the "chain-fire" problem was one of the main issues that prevented the Colt Revolving Rifle from having greater success; Marcy highly recommended this rifle when in "Indian country" on the Plains.
 
Mixing hard microcrystalline wax with your lube increases the melting temperature significantly. It is used by candle companies to increase the melting temperature of paraffin and other waxes so candles burn longer. straight hard microcrystalling wax has a melting temperature of about 200 degrees f.

beeswax melts at about 147 degrees F
Lard melts at 85 degrees F
Crisco melts about 119 degrees F.
most paraffin begins to melt at about 99 degree F

So if you are looking for something with a higher melting point, bees wax beats some of the others.

Keep in mind that just the summer sun can heat metals up beyond 140 degrees quite easily. I have had browned barrels get too hot to touch just from sitting out in the summer sun. (leaning against the loading bench)

Sealing wax originally was a mixture of bees wax and larch resin, with vermillion for color, to make a hard wax that binds to wood and paper. Sealing wax today has various melting temperatures depending on the formulation.

To make my BPCR lube, I use a combination of bees wax and microcrystaline wax

I have read that some shooters would light a candle and drip the wax into the chamber mouths. At the time of the civil war, I don't know if bees wax was the primary candle wax or not.
 
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