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Can I Shoot Out A Stuck Ball

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wpjson

40 Cal.
Joined
Mar 24, 2014
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I have a ball with a patch stuck about a foot down my 50 cal. flintlock. I have taken the touch hole plug out and removed the powder. I have tried everything I can think of. Can I put a couple of grains of powder back in the touch hole and shoot it out? Not a full load of powder, just a couple of grains. :confused:
 
Don't do it!
Unless the ball is seated, you take the chance of ruining the barrel.

I'd run a ball-screw down the barrel and pull it. A little water (if the barrel is fouled) can help it move....
 
I'd drop about a half teaspoon of 91% Isopropyl alcohol down on top of the ball to moisten the patch and see if it could then be seated down to just above the touch hole. If so, you can let it dry out a bit and add powder to shoot it out.
 
What did you try after you removed the touch hole liner?

What sort of working rod are you using to move the ball? Was the barrel fouled with BP residue? What lube do you have one the patch with the stuck ball? Did you put water or liquid lubricant down the bore to soften the likely fouling?

Don't try to shoot the ball out unless it is seated on the powder.
 
Here's an idea I pondered once for a ball stuck against a fouling ring. I am not saying this is a good idea, I am just offering it for discussion should anyone else here be as mad as me :youcrazy:

The problem is pushing against the ball with that large void behind.

The original idea was fill the void with good old incompressible water and then use a CO2 ball discharger. But that may not work because the CO2 can go into solution.

So, why not use that effect? Fill the void with fresh Coca Cola, close the touch gas tight and then freeze it.

I am sure we have all accidentally frozen a can of Coke at some time and we know it explodes because gas cannot be dissolved in ice, it has to come out of solution.

Question is, would it push that ball? :idunno:
 
Personally, I don't think a small amount of powder is going to cause any harm and will expel the ball. Five grains of FFg! People have done this forever, but, if there is any risk, it's on the owner...
 
Easier to just buy a dowel, and pound the ball all the way down, then shoot it out.

If you try the 5gr with air space, most likely your barrel can ring at a weak point......don't ask me how I know :doh:

Tomtom said so...... :haha:
 
use a ball puller.
or perhaps a grease nipple fitted to the touch hole and use a grease gun.

or use a co2 discharger.

Or since it is likely a one time thing, a steel rod slightly undersize and tap the ball down till it seats. (yes I have done this in the past on customer guns. Didn't hurt a thing.
Drill the end of rod to slightly conform to the bullet / ball shape.
Wood rods work ok, but they can break and splinter just like your ramrod.
Brass works to, but it is soft and malleable plus one that size id rather pricey.
 
kaintuck said:
Easier to just buy a dowel, and pound the ball all the way down, then shoot it out.

If you try the 5gr with air space, most likely your barrel can ring at a weak point......don't ask me how I know :doh:

All of this, plus, help preserve the longevity of the piece of dowel by putting Colt 45 or even a 45-70 empty case over the end that you hit. It spreads the impact of the striking implement and saves the dowel from splitting.

Another ripping wheeze is to use a selection of pieces of dowel in ever-increasing lengths to push that ball down. If you make the dowel just six inches longer than the distance to the ball it is a whole lot less springy than trying to hit a long flexing piece of wood. As you shove the ball down, use a longer piece of dowel. The stuff is cheap - your barrel isn't.

tac
 
Hey Guys,
As the other fellows have said " DO NOT shoot the gun until the ball is seated or removed. You "WILL" ruin the barrel.
A good and cheap ball puller that really works, is a 1/4" X 1 1/2 steel wood screw welded to a length of threaded rod.
Carefully slide the threaded rod down the barrel( I have several bushings that slip over the threaded rod to protect various calibers ) screw into the lead ball, I then pour some automatic transmission oil down the barrel.
I then place a washer over the end of the barrel, then put a nut on the threaded rod. Tighten the nut until the ball comes out.
Works very well for all calibers.
Really small calibers require a 1/4 threaded rod.
The larger the threaded rod, the easier it is to handle. Also threaded rod is quite cheap.
Fred
 
wpjson said:
I have a ball with a patch stuck about a foot down my 50 cal. flintlock. I have taken the touch hole plug out and removed the powder. I have tried everything I can think of. Can I put a couple of grains of powder back in the touch hole and shoot it out? Not a full load of powder, just a couple of grains. :confused:

It's stuck....and you dry balled?????
Isn't there a load of powder already in there....
 
wpjson said:
I have a ball with a patch stuck about a foot down my 50 cal. flintlock. I have taken the touch hole plug out and removed the powder. I have tried everything I can think of. Can I put a couple of grains of powder back in the touch hole and shoot it out? Not a full load of powder, just a couple of grains. :confused:

You had powder down there and took it out? Maybe be some left but do add a few grains and do what others have suggested. Namely, drive that ball down and shoot it out. A little lube dribbled on top to moisten the patch won't hurt. Yes, use a good heavy range rod or a dowel and pound that ball all the way down before shooting.
 
So the advice is to drive the damn thing down until it is seated and shoot it out? I have tried the CO2 thing and got nothing, the screw and got nothing and driving it down with my rod. I have a couple brass rods I will try them. It should not be fouled as I had only fired one round before it got stuck. Lube came with the patch, not sure of the brand. I will put a bit of powder back in and try and drive it down. Thanks all.
 
wpjson said:
So the advice is to drive the damn thing down until it is seated and shoot it out?
Should do the trick.

Don't know if the patches you used were "pre-lubed", but purchased patches are often dry and need re-lubing before use.
 
Squire Robin I'm glad someone else's brain works the same way mine does. And my wife tells me I'm and odd ball at least I have proof there is someone else like me now. :hatsoff:

To your question I think that is is a great idea depending on the barrel length and the size of one's freezer, but I certainly can't come up with a reason why that wouldn't work. To all of you amateur/professional metallurgists out there would freezing the barrel cause any changes in the metal?
 
It would be a very slow and incremental process.

The frozen water will occupy more space (~9% more than when liquid), but it will won't move the ball that far. One would need to repeat the freeze/thaw/re-fill/freeze process multiple times to move the ball.
 
shotgunner87 said:
Squire Robin I'm glad someone else's brain works the same way mine does. And my wife tells me I'm and odd ball at least I have proof there is someone else like me now. :hatsoff:

To your question I think that is is a great idea depending on the barrel length and the size of one's freezer, but I certainly can't come up with a reason why that wouldn't work. To all of you amateur/professional metallurgists out there would freezing the barrel cause any changes in the metal?

I don't think it would work and the thing is if the coke stays in the barrel very long, it will start eating the metal in as little as two days or less.
 
A brass rod is a good way to solve your problem. Place the rod against the ball and don't hit it hard, just lightly tap tap tap until the ball is seated. I have had to do this and it works.
 
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