cant seem to find a *&^% Flintlock

[F.G. Ford]

You don't really have to strip the blue, just brown right over it.
Just remove any oil or grease.

 

[kingsax26]

or you could age the barrel ......they look really sharp that way. This is how mine turned out

it looks darker than it really is ...it gave out a very nice grey/silver.....

 

[LtGeorge]

That looks awesome!!
Thank you all I really appreciate all the assistance! Ive ended up finding and and fixing to send a check for a Lyman GPR :thumbsup:

 

[morehops]

It's tough to beat a GPR for value. You don't pay a lot of money and you get a rifle that is capable of good accuracy at 100 yds. If buying new, make sure that you clean the barrel well with solvent to get the stuff out of the barrel that Lyman packs their barrels with.
BTW if you want to save even a few more bucks you could go with the Lyman Deerstalker. While not period correct, it is a great rifle for the money. Mine are very accurate and I love the lighter weight to carry in the woods.

 

[Lonegun1894]

Congrats on the GPR! Just be careful and make sure you never leave it unchaperoned. I have three of them right now, and still wondering how that happened some days...

 

[BullRunBear]

You'll really enjoy the new rifle. My 50 cal. GPR flinter easily knocks over foot square steel targets at 100 yards. (The rifle can do it, my marksmanship is another matter. SIGH!)

One nice thing about the GPR: It is more than fine for years of shooting, giving plenty of time to save up for your dream rifle.

Jeff

 

[VTdeerhunter]

Hey LT;

Don't forget to check the Antique shops...most are way over priced but if you look you can find some great deals...just picked this .45 cal. flintlock up, real dirty but after I cleaned her up I realized she had never been fired (at least not with this frizzen). Looks like an early 70's kit gun to me (have 1 like it that dad built in '76)..paid $60 out the door

 

[LtGeorge]

wow thats awesome! what a beautiful weapon! I wish the plains rifle had a full stock like that I freakin love it

 

[hanshi]

You got a good deal.

 

[traditional man]

Can you do a CVA flintlock conversion on an CVA percussion cheap?

 

[LtGeorge]

Are there any good right ups on charges and the progression one should use? Also whats the SOP with using conical style bullets in a rifle with low twist rate? Can you use mini maxis and buffalo ball-ets of sorts but no sabots? ( not that i have any intention of using sabots) or is it strictly patched/unpatched round balls?

 

[yakimaman]

Begging the lieutenant's pardon but if you're of a mind to get a flintlock rifle why would you want to shoot conicals in it or ball-etts? If that's what you want, get a civil war musket and blast away, but your "flinter" is going to be a round ball gun - shoving anything else down the bore doesn't make sense at all.

 

[LtGeorge]

nah no worries just a newb question, trying to learn the ropes. Trying to learn the ends in outs of flinting. Whats the benefits of shooting with a patch v no path, and if you patch can you shoot smaller balls?

 

[LtGeorge]

im going to get powder in the next couple of days for a .50cal Lyman GPR ive seen two different things either ff or fff for the main charge and fff or ffff for the primer umm, how should i start?

 

[yakimaman]

Leut, there are BP guides galore out there and you need to get your hands on one and read, then read some more. The patch is what seals the bore, keeps the ball in place, stabilizes it as it's fired, and reduces blow by. i.e., my GPR .54 shot a .530rb, a thick pillow ticking patch and a 40gr charge of FFFG. At normal 25 yd match targets it would put every shot in one ragged hole. If you're buying a .50 cal then get one can of FFF powder, some .490 rb,some flints, and that's all you need for now. Don't buy any FFFF until you really get comfortable with your gun. Order a Dixie Gun Works catalog - read all the ads, read the historical info and then read some more. Lots of info out there if you will go look for it.

 

[Dean2]

LT

Welcome to the site. There is a great deal of info on here and it will answer all of the questions you have asked to date. Look at the Sticky on Flintlock Shooting Tips, great place to start. After that, read back through the pages of posts, you will find a tremendous amount of info. Getting hold of a good manual, like Lyman's will help a lot too.

Hope you enjoy it here as much as the rest of us do.

 

[F.G. Ford]

It is good to hear that you have found what you are looking for!
I have been shooting BP for many years ( I wish I had some of those years back)
Years ago I went through the magnum years, where nothing wasn't any good unless it was a magnum this or that.
Even in BP, well in most cases, putting 400 grs. of BP behing a 500 gr, ballet/bullet does not give a satisfactory result.
A barrel with a slow trist will not do well with an elongated projectile, and even worse with a naked projectile.
Your muzzleloader absolutely needs a patched ball, especially if you desire to shoot accutately, and also if you also wish to shoot several shots.
I hope this helps, and adds to the confusion.
Fred

 

[LtGeorge]

Makes sense, I looked through some of the posts but couldnt find a satisfactory answer, seems to be two camps of people, even found some others talking about the GPR but again it was either 2f or 3f charges with 3f or 4f in the pan. I suppose this means that there is no correct answer??

 

[LtGeorge]

If you're buying a .50 cal then get one can of FFF powder, some .490 rb,some flints, and that's all you need for now. Don't buy any FFFF until you really get comfortable with your gun.

This is pretty much what I decided to do yesterday after reading someones post on the traditionalist forum. I suppose 3f burns fast enough for steady ignition.

In yalls opinion is the ignition time between 3f and 4f noticeably different?

 

[yakimaman]

Hey Leut, check the classifieds on this site. Pedersoli flinter just went up for $380. There ya go!